I came across an article about a "budget" ADV motorcycle build out starting with a DS650. The "budget" the author had was $9K. I have nowhere near that. A middle class worker with kids I am not going to get to spend that kind of money on a bike. So I started thinking about what my "budget" was for the bike I am putting together. This is what I came up with: 92 TDM with 32K well maintained (owned by someone who worked at the Yamaha dealer): 2000 New 80/20 tires after many hours scouring ebay, amazon, and every moto tire site: 150 New fork seals, installed with dust covers: 260 New thermostat, o-ring, oil, filter etc: 75 New turn signals 10 Luggage rack, new 279 Luggage, used 275 mounting hardware 26 recover seat and add some height 250 misc- new plugs, fuel line, farkle unforseen, beer for wrenching etc 200 Total 3525 The idea is to build it up over the course of the summer one thing at a time and have a complete bike by the end. I figure that I will end up with a bike at least 1/3 as good as the budget DS650. So far I have the thermostat replaced, fork seals replaced, new tires on and a line on some luggage. My question is, if you were on a budget ADV build, what special features would you consider required for a bike you would take out in to the big empty places?
Skid plate and/or engine guard. Doing the fork seals yourself (after buying the $20 shop manual) probably would have paid for one of those. 12v outlet. Can't live without one of those. Add a dry bag to the luggage list, you'll probably want one before long. Budget more money for beer. All in all, your build looks pretty good.
Ergonomics that placed my chin over the bars whist standing, my feet close to the swing arm pivot in any position and my bum over the rear axle when required. Protection of the sump oil lines clutch housing from rocks, sticks and falls High fenders that will not clog with mud. 250 mile fuel range minimum. Easy access grab handles to pick the pig up when it fell over. On board storage for tools, spares not packed as luggage. Hi performance Hi capacity battery AGM is good. Lights that will show you the way when there are no road markings. Racks to accept a variety of soft luggage. Wire wheels would be nice as would a 21" front.
Bike comes with the skid plate... there are no stock engine gaurds to be found for a TDM- not in the US anyway. Your right, I could have done the fork seals myself, but they were leaking and I was busy, and the shop mounted the tires for 20 bucks each while they were doing the forks. My plan is to fab some engine gaurds down the road, but having zero metal fab/welding exp it may take some doing.
Rode one years ago & didn't buy it. Bought a BMW K75s... Wish i had bought the TDM. There is a TDM thread on this board iirc. RTWDoug rode one in Europe/Russia. Might wanna read that thread for tips. He does talk about the bike alot. Google TDM 850 nickel plated needles. The brass needles wear and this is bad. In good tune they give very good MPG.
Slowly things have been progressing at the zoo- The new tires are on. They are great until about 80, and ok to 90. Seeing as the Kenda is only rated to 90 I guess that will have to do. At low to moderate speeds (ie under 70) they are good on tarmac- not as good as the Michelins that came off but solid and better than my cb750 ever was ebevn with new tires and shocks (and rebuilt swingarm bushings) I cant wait to see how they handle the dirt roads of my commute! I have the luggage brackets on order, and some trax panniers used lined up. That should come together next weekend. I put the new smaller turn signals on and despite that I didnt use LEDs, the change in draw is causing the flasher to double time it... I guess thats the next project now. Also I got my summer work assignment- I will get to drive down 20 miles of dirt and two lane placktop to work four days a week through God's Country here in Klickitat County WA. The project is kinda lame but the commute makes it worth while. I decided to name the bike Victor after Victorinox the swiss army knife maker. Kinda the ideal- one bike for all my needs. I have this fantasy of painting the bike swiss army knife red with the cross in shield logo but with my budget I never get to paint anything except my house.
ADV on a budget? Candidate 1: 2000 Triumph Tiger. http://girlieadv.blogspot.com/2011/12/deal.html Inspired by Rocinante's travels. Purchased for $750. (Paid the P.O. for $500 insurance deductable + $250 for farkles: Factory sidecases, Givi Top case, Heated grips, Gel seat, and new chain/brake pads) Salvaged from accident. mechanically sound, but front forks and chassis bent. Phase 1: Strip and straighten the frame/forks: Frameman (Sacramento) $1000 Phase 2: Suspension: Revalved and resprung an Ohlins rear shock from a BMW K1200: $450 Ricor Intiminators: $175 Phase 3: Improvements for off-road: PivotPegz: $150; Stompgrip on tank $60; Heidenau K60 Scout tires: $300; Fehling crash bars: $60 (eBay); Moose Racing hand guards: $20 (Craigslist); Fabricated aluminum bash plate: $100 (labor and materials); Replace plastic fuel fittings with stainless steel fittings: $36 Phase 4; Navigation: Garmin CSx76 from West Marine: $150 Candidate 2: 1990 Suzuki DR250 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18227709&postcount=11271 Inspired by Mondo Enduro Purchased for $250. Junk title with 1990 DR250S motor in 1994 DR350SE frame. Engine/transmission: OK. Not registered, no title, no DOT electricals (lights, horn, etc.). Did research on VIN and found registered owner of DR350SE frame. Drafted an affidavit "Statement of Facts' on DMV form; and was able to register (dual): License Plate and Off-Highway Vehicle. Phase 1: Meet DOT requirements for Highway use: Installed Moose Racing DOT headlight: $70, Acerbis Tail light: $32, LED rear signals: $13, Tusk racing front signals integrated in handguards: $45. Turn signal relay $15; Horn $7; dual sport mirror: $9; Hydraulic Brake switches: $13 x 2. YTX4L-BS Battery: $24 Kenda Trackmaster II DOT tires: $103/set.; OEM switches. Speedometer/Odometer (use GPS) Phase 2: Extend range: Acerbis 4.2 Gal tank: $216 Phase 3: Tune up: Spark plug: $3; Uni-filter; $23; Carburetor jets: $10 Phase 4: Cosmetics: Polisport front fender: $5 (on sale), Fork Boots: $19 (eBay); Guts Racing seat cover $50
Totally depends what you want to do. Mostly long-distance street touring? Street touring with a mix of trails? Mostly local roads and trails?? Want something that will cruise at 80 all day long...or something that is light and maneuverable on trails? I do almost entirely street adventures, but I like the ability to maybe take a trail if I need to. For this I bought a V-Strom (1000). Got one with 12,000 miles with a full set of nice Givi cases for $3,800. It was ready to go, right off the bat. Added a new chain, rear tire, heated grips and tall wind-shield......and I'm out the door for about $4,300. For shorter rides, and mixing in more off-road, the best bang for the buck you're gonna find is probably a KLR650. But, I couldn't do a longer trip with one. Not enough power or comfort. A V-Strom 650 (wee) is a great choice, if you can find one on the cheap. Good power, great mileage, comfort....all around good bike. Also, philosophically, I think it's cheaper to look and get a great used deal than to build. But, you can't do it "slowly over time". Every bike I've built I could have bought for 40% less....and been mostly done with it.
My budget Adventure rig, 1988 250NX purchased for $1400. Plans are to add racks, Wolfman soft luggage, ram mounted GPS, tank bag, 12V outlet, Roto Pax tank mount.
This is what I did to a TDM: Not a bad platform for an adventure bike. I was probably 1 a head of you with a good rear shock by Works Suspension with a 8kg Eibach spring. You could lower the top shock bolt for more rear end height. The 92-93's have cartridge forks. You can add a gold valve, I just added Hyperpro springs and heavier oil. If you slog the bike over a tough trail, it will begin to over heat with its small radiator. I added a Fluidyne 7" slim line fan with a manual over ride. Brings the temp down right now. I could raise the rear with my preload, for the front I found a large 4.10 x 18 semi knobby tire. Near as big as a 21". If you buy a tire with inch measurements, it will have a taller aspect ratio. It is as tall as it is wide. Look for one with a rounded profile. But it is a tubed tire. There is a crash bar available or there was a few years ago. Made by Renntec. I eventually welded another loop on it to give more protection. Skid plate is pretty tacky but it stopped flying rocks. The fender was off a dirt bike I had and added the mounts, A common fix on that bike is an electric fuel pump. Early 90's Yamaha R-6 pump is the one I used. Carry a spare rectifier/regulator, they are good for about 50,000 miles. I have one somewhere. A pre Wee Strom on steroids. Good enough to ride the Alpine Loop in Colorado and the deserts conditions around Bishop California. I really enjoyed topping out Silver Canyon on my way to the end of the road at White Mountain and joining all the other dirt bikes.
