990 Fuel Pump Filter How-Too

I have gone through and seen several really good threads that show a lot of details about the In&#8217;s and Out&#8217;s of the fuel filter. After 9K miles I decided as a preventative measure to change out mine. What I didn&#8217;t know were the tricks you needed and couple of really odd tools necessary to make this an easy project.<o></o>
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I won&#8217;t go into how you have to take of the tanks etc. I am assuming your smarter than a 6^th grader (well except maybe for a couple of you) and am not going to bother with those details. This starts from the point where the pump is already removed from the tank and you have the necessary filters and O rings to make the swap.<o></o>
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One tip, it is really a pain in the ass to re-use the smaller of the two O rings that seals the pump to the tank. I tried but had no luck so I just replaced it with the new one.<o></o>
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This is what the pump assembly looks like split into its two main components. The top part in white houses the cartridge filter. You have to remove the cage, ground screw and electrical leads to remove the second part of the pump and filter from the housing. The first part is just held in place with two clips.<o></o>
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Those are the two ears you see above where my thumb is pointing to the ground screw I referred too.<o></o>
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This was the first tricky part I could not figure out, how to separate the top section to get at the cartridge filter. There are two ears internal to the piece that have to be pushed in and the inner section pulled out with a pair of pliers. <o></o>
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I used two 1.27mm allen wrenches to slide down the guide-way to depress the two ears, you can use a small screwdriver but you would need two sets of hands. This was fast and easy.<o></o>
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You can kinda see the guidways at the 3 and 6 O'clock position in this pic<o></o>
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Here is that part with the new cartridge filter on it. Make sure to transfer over the O ring inside the cartridge filter to the new one.<o></o>
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Now it was time to go after the bag filter, you have to remove the pump from the housing to do this.<o></o>
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Start by removing the electrical connections.<o></o>
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Two terminals and the ground.<o></o>
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The terminals are marked so don&#8217;t worry about it.<o></o>
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Next come the cage screws.<o></o>
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There is one on either side of the pump.<o></o>
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Kinda hard to see but they are peeking out from either side.<o></o>
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Once the pump is slid out of the housing you have access to the filter bag<o></o>
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It just pops off no screws etc.<o></o>
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There is one fiddly bit under the pump is a rubber thingy you have to make sure you put it back with the pump properly oriented when inserting back into the housing. Forgot to get a picture of it but if you get this far you will know exactly what I am talking about.<o></o>
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Now just reverse the order and put it back together making sure to lube all the o rings for safety.<o></o>
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Old vs. New<o></o>
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Nice break down of the job. Looks like you were ready for filter changes from the color of them. My 990 has 13K and I'm thinking it's about time for me also.

Yea I didnt have any debre in the tanks like alot of people have reported but it was alot of dusty off road, that is only after bout 9K miles.

Did you happen to save the sock filter? somebody here was looking for one to try to find an after market that would fit... see if i can find the post...

This is how my 1st set looked after 8000 mls.




I was able to get the plastic housing apart with a little screw diver and only one set of hands...


One thing that gave me a little trouble was when i put the plastic filter housing back on the pump , i heard the metal clips click but it wasn't completely seated and it ran like shit. So make sure that it gets seated...

I am on my 3rd set with 22,000 mls, i put in the 2nd set at 18,000 and it didn't look nearly as bad as the 1st set, i reused the big o-rings on this change without any problems so far. I also didn't find much crap in the tanks...

My old thread...http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=372139... I didn't get a pic of the rubber thing under the pump either...

Also in... HOW

I have been in contact with the manuf that was looking for make the sock filter aftermarket, I am sending my old one to him will email monday when back at work to see if he still wants it.

I looked in the HOW and didnt see your thread that was why I did this. Should of looked harder...

Did you have any luck with an aftermarket sock filter replacement?

Nope it never transpired, I think the shape etc made it too difficult to emulate without significant cost. Very poor ROI (return on investment) for the manuf.

I sure understand that is a big issue. I think I am going to convert to a external fuel filter. just need to get the proper model and do a some plumbing!

great post......thanks

Yes, would have been *&^%$# nice to see this YESTERDAY before I took my fuel pump apart for the first time. I didn't know how to take out the cartridge filter from the white plastic housing, so after cleaning the sock filter with soapy hot water, then carb cleaner I put it all back together. 9000 kms and dirty like yours was.

A tip I found to get the pump back into the tank without the o-ring coming out crooked. You can't really do it well by hand, you're not strong enough and the pump only has to go a bit crooked and the o-ring bulges out wrong.

I set the pump against the fuel tank gently, with the o-ring just touching the sides of the fuel tank, then I put all four bolts into the corners of the pump and did them up by hand until they were holding the pump's o-rings just against the tank. Then I did each bolt up about 1/2 a turn (diagonally sequenced) at a time. It kept the pump totally even/level/straight, and I was able to roll the oring inside the fuel tank without it bulging out.

The whole fuel pump kit is about $170, I think there are options to buy just the filters at this place. ($80??) I haven't checked it out yet. http://www.powersportswarehouse.com...ory=MOTORCYCLES&make=KTM&year=2007&fveh=23399

I know that there is now a "fuel pump purge kit" available. A bloke in Maryborough has built them and they are sold (in Oz) through Dalby Moto KTM and (o/seas) through a bike shop in Biloela. I think. This kit causes the fuel pump to pump backwards for 5 seconds after you have turned the bike off for 30 seconds. It is purely an electrical plug in gizmo, apparently a 5 min job. I'm thinking of getting it. They 'say' it causes the filters to last longer. Cost about $270.

We have one of the Purge Kits in hand stateside and will start testing this before the end of the month. We plan to start offering them once we get some first hand experiance with it. So far it looks like a great setup and I have a friend in OZ testing one too for feedback.

Keep you posted how this works out.

Very curious what this purge kit consists of.

Straight off the Dalby Moto site. Google is your friend.




View Full-Size Image



EFI FILTER PURGE KIT

$270.00

Ask a question about this product
FIX KTM 690 ENDURO AND 990 ADVENTURE DIRTY FUEL FILTER PROBLEMS.
Now includes genuine KTM plugs with the kit!...
The EFI FILTER PURGE KIT is an easily installed computerised part, that tests so far have revealed to keep your fuel filters clean indefinitely.
Fitting instructions included. (See instructions here)
Valued at $270 AUD plus freight.

The EFI Filter Purge Unit will fit straight to the KTM990 Adventure simply by unplugging your fuel pump power wires, and plugging the unit in to the KTM wiring harness.
Then fix the unit under the battery box by zip tie and attach the power wire to the positive terminal and your ready for the bad fuel of Outback Australia.


<form action="http://www.dalbymoto.com.au/index.php" method="post" name="addtocart" id="addtocart_4f2050c04218a" class="addtocart_form">
<label for="quantity164" class="quantity_box">Quantity: </label><input class="inputboxquantity" size="4" id="quantity164" name="quantity[]" value="1" type="text">

</form>

What is going on when the fuel pump is in the purge mode? Is it as simple as just crossing the wires from one pole to another to make the pump go into reverse?

Here are few Newer pics I snapped today.

What has been explained to me is that:
You turn the key off and this flips the fuel pump in reverse to back wash the filters and a few seconds. Upon start up next time it's back to normal.

I think the ones Blak posted are an older test version.

This is closer to what the production version will be.





Price is looking to be very close to that, might be around $280 with shipping to the US.

CJRacer, quick off topic question. I have the CJ Designs extended footpegs (longer version) for my '10 990. Now I want to get pivotpegz for my bike, will your extended pegs just fit onto pivot pegz.

I have a different version for the Pivots. Pivots and CJD Extensions are in stock. These only work on the MK2 version. As the new MK3 version is wider, but not longer. Send me an email and we can go over this if interested.

Can you explain what the other parts in the picture are for?
What does that little tube thingy between the elec stuff and the what looks like a thermal sock for the electric stuff.

I tried to be as technical as I could with my questions.

The little tube is a one way check valve that replaces the one that is removed from the FP.

The "Sock" is a foam wrap that the Black box goes in to protect it.

This all fits under the battery box where the 950 FP use to be.

Until it gets installed on the test bike, that's about all I've got for you.

You can find more pics and info here:
http://www.efipurgemodules.com/fitting-purge-units.html

I hope to have more info next week.

Let me get this straight.
You are in Wisconsin or Minnesota or such.
It is the middle of winter.
You have the parts.
You have the bike.
And you want us to wait until NEXT WEEK?

:eek1

What the hell, put down the snow shovel, lay off the cheese and get to work already. Not like you are out riding or anything (like we are in CA, but now I am just getting off topic)