about to recieve a 69 dnepr hack.. havent seen it in person yet so i cant answer how smoooth it is.. but i am trying to formulate a game plan... I have an 03 yellar strom.. trying to decide which would work best on a hack.. paint or powdercoat.. I guess the bottom line is i dont have much if any experience w powdercoat.. i guess bedliner in a cool color might be another option... any thoughts appreciated
Powder coat the frame, paint the exterior body, bedliner inside the trunk and body. BTW, you have to send the frame to a powdercoater as you prolly don't have an oven large enough to bake it.
What about using the bedliner paint that can be purchased at most hardware/paint stores? I do not know how it compares to pro applied liner, but the quote I got locally was for more than what I paid to buy my project. I have been thinking about using it on the frame also. any real world experience?
i was thinkin if i did bedliner inside that s what i would do.. but after thinkin about bedliner a bit i think it would be hard to keep clean.. prolly gonna powdercoat frome and paint hack inside and out
I used the roll on stuff on the dump bed of my Kawasaki Mule. It's not bad, holding up well, considering I load it and dumped horse manure, dirt, sand & gravel etc. Like everything else, prep is important. If I were doing it again I would sandblast instead of using the wire wheel on my grinder. I would think it would work real well on the interior of a hack. If I were doing the exterior I would have it sprayed, kind of tough to get it even with the roller for a finished look.
http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK/productinfo/CHG/ This stuff is tough as nails. I used two of the aerosol cans on my Dnepr frame and no rust almost two years on. My rig has to live outside, too. I painted the car body with the POR15 rust preventative paint and top-coated with another of their products and no rust on the tub either. Cheaper than powder coating. Not as hard, but harder than anything you'll get off the shelf at Lowes or Sherman Williams. You have to follow the directions to the "T" if you want all the benefits.
Me, I just had my sidecar powder coated. I would not recommend it over paint, myself. If you muck up one area with pc, your not going to be able to just touch it up so easily. PC is durable, but not indestructable. The cost of doing my front, rear and sidecar fenders, plus gas tank and hack was right at $600 bucks down here. The pc shows every single ding, dent and wave in the structure. Some of the dents I got were not from me, but from the pc guys using a stand to do the sandblasting and flipping the hack over and hitting a post on the stand. Only one local pc guy could handle the hack size and I went through 4 different pc guys in trying to find someone who could do a decent job. If you ever have your rig at a campsite, be aware that DEET spray can cause spots on pc that won't come out and eat away at the coating. Careful where you spray your bug spray. To me, paint is cheaper and easier to apply or touch up in the long run. Wish I had gone that route instead of the pc I chose, but that is just hindsight, now. I didn't coat the frame, as it didn't look bad enough to pull it all apart and do. Unfortunately, my home is a leased home and the garage is not setup to allow for paint, as the water heater is out there and the landlord would not allow it anyway. I went with the pc, but for as nice as it may seem to someone else, I'd opt for paint in any future jobs. It all depends upon what you are expecting from paint and the colors you choose, but for durability and ease of touch up, I really feel the paint is the best option, myself. If your going to have the hack done up in pc, be sure to get the sand blasting done with someone who won't warp anything. Also, once the sand blasting is done, you can repair any small dents and dings with JB Weld, but you have to work fast with the stuff, as it really, really hardens quick if you don't do the sanding in a hurry. JB Weld will stick in the heating process, but Bondo will drop out and can't be used for a pc project. Believe me, any dent or ding that is not repaired prior to pc will show like a sore thumb afterwards. The pc guys are not likely to treat your tub as if it were your baby, either. Be careful in who you settle with and always, always, always do a good inspection of the parts before you accept them. I had to have two fenders completely reshot, as they missed a lot. I wish I had inspected the hack body much closer, as there are dents there that can't be popped out after the pc is applied, as it will break or crack the coating, now. Good luck in what you choose. Random photos of Dog Taxi in pc. http://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/8244883945/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/8244882353/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/8250555345/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/8211285685/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/8186240270/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/8176779805/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/8138785693/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/a1930ford/8257269207/
You won't go wrong. All the car resto guys swear by this POR stuff. Kind of a secret outside that circle it seems. Eastwood is a big seller of the line. BTW, I used a cheapo aerosol spray undercoating inside my tub and then a regular latex paint over top, and that has held up well, too. I think the latex moves with the undercoating during temperature changes and also helps bind it together. No flake-off anywhere inside the car, and I can wipe dirt off fairly easily. Pics!
The undercoating I used on mine was 3M Ruberized undercoating 08883. It was easy enough to apply. If you make a mistake with it, you need to allow the product to dry, sand off the error and reshoot. Follow the directions and it is basically easy to shoot. I have not fully assembled my bike, so I have not tested this product to any extent at this time. I got my undercoating at NAPA. It only took one can to do the bottom part I did, but I had purchased a second can as a back up, anyway. Like say, I have not really had the bike on the road to test this produce under wear and tear or environmental conditions. 3M only says that if you topcoat it, the paint will discolor. This is not so for products as Rhino lining or Por-15. POR-15 will eventually turn a whitish color if exposed to UV light for prolonged time, so top coating is important if that is what your rig runs in, but some folk deny their POR-15 coating ever needed a top coat. This stuff is not impervious to heat, so just be aware of that should you choose to use it. Be sure to tape things off well and be aware that you can have some overspray with this product. I used one of those hand handle devices on the can so I didn't have to hold the nozzle down with my thumb all the time. Shake the can very, very well, as the directions indicate. The can comes with a backup nozzle in the cap, too. You can shoot on an initial coat and later come back and touch it up very easily. Random photos: 1896, on Flickr 1817, on Flickr 1562, on Flickr 1559, on Flickr 1446, on Flickr 1925, on Flickr 1837, on Flickr 1830, on Flickr Good luck on your choice.
This how I did my first Ural tub..Except we painted my frame with a black frame paint for semi's trailers..Its a very hard & durable paint.. I've painted many a Mo-cycle frames this way and it works great..My new tub will be getting this treatment in the new future....
My Cheesehead neighbor pretty much as it right to my way of thinking also allot of bedliner needs paint as a primer to stick too. Most commercial powder coat operations do have an oven large enough as they often have wheeled racks of parts they roll in the temps don't get sky high.DB
