GPSmap 60CSX battery vibration

I remember reading somewhere (here) that folks were having problems with battery vibration wearing the contacts or shutting off the unit or something when mounted to the bike.
Curious - is this a concern if the bike is being used on road or only off road?
Does a thin foam shim help to keep the batteries snug and in place? Anyone use dialectric grease on the battery connections inside the unit?

Why don't you just hardwire to the bike? Fixes the problem of the 60 shutting off and if you need to use it off the bike just carry a set of batteries.

How would that help? I've heard this suggested before and it doesn't makes sense. According to Webster, dielectric - a nonconductor of direct electric current. I would think you'd want something that would maintain continuity, not prevent it. Not trying to be too critical here, just trying to understand what would work.

I tried mine on my xrl last year with just batteries on a ram mount. It worked ok for the first twenty miles, then just kept shutting itself off. I was just running gravel roads.
I got my hardwire kit and ram mount from cycoactive.

I read somewhere that constant vibration will cause the battery contacts to arc and make for poor connections. I wrap my batteries with a little black electric tape and use dielectric grease on the contacts. after one year I have had no problems with unit shutting down.
I am also hard wiring the unit to the bike this weekend to eleminate the need to keep extra batteries on board.
FYI
Mike

Put the tape over and under the batteries on the case. Only have to do once
not on each battery.

I have my uint hardwired and I put a foam ear plug on top of the batteries (actually lay it down between them) and put the cover on. The newer models have a large foam square under each electrical contact to keep it from greaking.

I don't ride off-road, but years ago with my first GPS I discovered that sticking one or two foam earplugs inside the battery case before closing it prevents vibe-induced shutdown 100% (in my case). BTW, I currently use that technique on my 60csx.

My 76cx has a very tight battery box. I used the suggestion to put an earplug between the batteries. Thanks.

But: I have had no problems in the past...several thousand miles offroad.

I have a 60csx and it worked the first few hours on my LC4, then it would die every few minutes on / off road. I tried putting earplugs, tape and anything else i could find behind the batteries with no luck. Hardwired it and now no problems.

There are a couple solutions:

1. Lithium cells. The Energizer Lithium AA cells are very light and vibrate far less than NiMH and Alkaline cells. They also last much longer and work better in cold conditions.

2. Shim the connection tabs inside the battery compartment. A small bit of cardboard behind the battery tab works as a shim to hold the cell tighter than it would otherwise be retained.

3. Shim the cells with a foam earplug or similar. Same idea as #2 - you're looking to tighten the fit of the cells in the case.

4. Install a small capacitor on the PCB. For advanced users only, as it requires dissasembly and soldering to the printed circuit board inside the case. The capacitor acts as a backup battery, providing power for the moments its needed when the cell connection is broken by vibration.

5. Hardwire the GPS to the bike. Duh.

A little dielectric greese on the contacts took care of the battery/shut off issue on mine. they sell little packs of the greese for $0.99 at most auto parts stores.

Bryce

Is there an advantage to hardwiring the GPS to the bike as opposed to installing a marine grade cigarette lighter receptacle. I assume when you say "hardwire" you mean to add a permanent wire to the battery that plugs into the back of the GPS using the standard 4 prong plug right?
Sorry for the Noobish questions.

No, people say Hard Wire (external battery, can move unit) as opposed to Hand Held (internal battery). It is just the source of power not how.

The term is used somewhat loosely. Hardwire can mean anything from splicing the Garmin power connector into the bike's electrical system to installing a weathertight power outlet and running from that.

Because I use my 76CS for several applications, I'm installing a weathertight "Universal" plug in my power cable. I'll add a mate to that plug in my bike and truck's wire harness. I'll also put one on my NiteRider NiMH battery (I use that for LD trips in the canoe and kayak).

Just an FYI... I had a 60CS wired to the moto, but left the batteries in anyway. After some months, when the unit was off the moto and powered by batteries the slightest tap would shut it off. The contacts looked good (no visible arc damage) and I sent the unit back to Garmin and they completely refurbed the unit (biffed up buttons and display bezel replaced!) under warranty. Their report said the contacts were damaged internally.


So I never run units on the moto that take AA's with the batteries installed. Next time the failure might happen after the warranty expires....


YMMV...

The batteries are on a small daughter board that only contact the mother board with two pressure contacts. If they vibrate adn rub they can fail. This is a very good idea especailly on an "x" since you can power it from the USB port in the house at your computer.

Just to bring this thread back from the dead, I'm having the same issue with my 60Cx.

6000RPM on my 1-cylinder seems to be the worst speed, about 75MPH in 6th gear.

What I actually think is happening is that the vibration is messing up the unit's estimate of the battery voltage, as the battery meter appears to drop before the unit shuts off. After a shut-off, even hand-holding the unit the battery power may go out. I don't think it's a matter of losing power all at once, but the unit powering itself down when it senses the voltage dropping.

Anyone switched to the Oregon, Montana, or Dakota after a 60CSX and been happy?

Oh yes, but the Montana's the only one of the three you suggested which has a proper power connection, through a wired mount with surface connectors.

Is it hard wired to bike battery? If not do it and don't run internal batteries, much less mass and therefore vibration problems.