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ducnut 07-25-2010 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Yea, there are a few options out there but they are flimsy. Most will be fine if you are only going to use the rack for light loads every once and a while. Any time I have put one of those adapters on someones bike that actually uses their rack, the adapter has broken.

That's good to know!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheNedster
Re: the rear rack for seat stay mounted calipers. Topeak makes one and it looks the business. I've been running one of their regular racks on my cross bike to commute. I load up with a lot of stuff sometimes (lunch, change of clothes, raingear, laptop, etc) and have had zero problems. Plus, I like the way their bags latch to the rack.

Yeah, their stuff looks really nice. My old Trek bag attaches to its rack the same way as Topeak. Too bad they don't interchange.

Gummee! 07-25-2010 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dranrab Luap
I can NEVER manage to bleed brakes properly, so from a mechanical standpoint I prefer the simplicity of cable actuated discs. I also prefer the feel of mechanical discs.

They don't feel the same, and the mech discs don't quite have the same modulation, but...

...you can get a brake cable anywhere 'just in case.'

Avid BB7s = :thumb

With mechanical discs you can eliminate the brake drag same as on a hydro system. May take a little fiddling, but I've set em up quiet and true lots of times.

Off-road, I want simple, easy to fix, easy to scavenge parts for. :nod S'why I'm riding thumb shifters. Something happens I still have friction. That's off-road. ON-ROAD's another story. :nod

M

Gummee! 07-25-2010 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NikonsAndVStroms
I'm hoping to get back into cycling whenever my body is up to it as a way to rebuild the muscle loss over the 2+ years but will need a few parts.

I have new in the box V-brakes so I might as well use them, so the big concern is the front fork. I have a RST from when front suspension was just getting into the sub 500 dollar bikes so it weighs a ton and has no travel. What would be a good lightweight (keeping overall weight down to a minimum will be key) fork that has decent travel, enough for dirt paths with the occasional root or 6-8 inch ditch.....I'm looking for something that is as cheap as can be while still offering a degree of quality.

There's a fork in the flea market that's better...

Problem yer gonna run into is suspension design's gone long travel over the years. You can still find 80mm forks, but they're getting to be few and far between.

HTH

M

Gummee! 07-25-2010 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducnut
"Gummee!" and I can ride sweep for whatever breaks/falls off your bike.

Up to and including you!

Pierce has ridden on the back when his RS broke.

:thumb

M

MapMaster 07-25-2010 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Mechanic for the last 19 years.

Trailer Rails,
What shop do you work at in da 'Burg?

Askel 07-25-2010 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheNedster
I've heard good things about the Dart 3. I think Askel has one on his Kona 29er.


I have mixed feelings on the Dart 3. Smooth as fucking butter. Flimsy as all hell. For smooth single track, I love it. When the roots and rocks start getting more prevalent, it loses it's luster.

I have a Tora 318 U-turn on my 26" bike though that I just love. When I bought it a couple years ago they were right around $200.

Askel 07-25-2010 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
I have been running hydro discs since about 1997. I have only broken one line and that was when I broke my frame in half. I never had any problems on the trail. Bleeding is not that bad and rarely needs to be done. I am a fan of Avid hydros, with their bleed kit it is very easy to bleed the brakes. You can get a Juicy 3 hyrdo brake for a bout $70. Probably cheaper than a BB7 and brake levers. The new elixir brakes feel awesome.

Ah, see- you just outed yourself as a mechanic. I usually consider it a win if I don't hurt myself every time the tools come out. For the ham-fisted bush mechanic, mechanicals are the clear winner. :lol3

Gummee! 07-25-2010 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Askel
Ah, see- you just outed yourself as a mechanic. I usually consider it a win if I don't hurt myself every time the tools come out. For the oxygen deprived, starving, tired, sore, wet, cold, 'I gotta fix it so I can ride out rider, mechanicals are the clear winner. :lol3

fixt

M

slackmeyer 07-25-2010 05:09 PM

Cranked out 102 miles today on the road bike- first time I've been on the road in a few months. I started out thinking I'd do 75-80 miles, but I was feeling good, so I kept going.

Thanks to whoever (ducnut?) posted the articles on tire pressure- I'm running my 700x23 tires at about 100 psi now, down from 120. That, along getting rid of those specialized armadillos, makes the ride much, much nicer.

Oh, and Boure bibs are the shit. Seriously, I never even thought about being saddle sore. My only sore spot is my neck (I spent a lot of time in the drops, because it seemed like the wind kept shifting to slow me down).

ducnut 07-25-2010 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slackmeyer
Cranked out 102 miles today on the road bike- first time I've been on the road in a few months. I started out thinking I'd do 75-80 miles, but I was feeling good, so I kept going.

Good job! That's the way to ride; whatever you feel like doing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by slackmeyer
Thanks to whoever (ducnut?) posted the articles on tire pressure- I'm running my 700x23 tires at about 100 psi now, down from 120. That, along getting rid of those specialized armadillos, makes the ride much, much nicer.

'twas me.

Yeah, that article has really made me re-think tire pressures. I swapped out the 23's on my GF's road bike to 28mm Continental Touring Plus tires. I set them at what the chart showed and they run with a perfect little sidewall bulge. My Tricross 32's are set to the chart and run with about the same ratio of sidewall bulge. Both roll nice and smooth.

Quote:

Originally Posted by slackmeyer
My only sore spot is my neck (I spent a lot of time in the drops, because it seemed like the wind kept shifting to slow me down).

I have aerobars on my 'cross and just added a set to her road bike. They really help with muscle aches around the spine/neck. I just relax on 'em and crank the miles.

I run Profile Design T1+ bars on everything. They have the highest stack height and most adjustability I know of. They're around $100, so they wouldn't be an overly expensive experiment.

Mr Head 07-25-2010 07:10 PM

Well, I decided my self medicating was either working, (sort of) or this congestion wasn't a cold since I am not used to living with all this growing stuff.
So, after TDF was over and Laguna MotoGP was over, I hopped on the bike and did 32 miles down the Interurban Trail. It is a pretty good ride to just get to the north end of this thing.. Plenty of hills that had me down to the last gear in the cluster.

The bars only wiggle a little...:huh

Oznerol 07-25-2010 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducnut
I can't even imagine wanting twist shifters. Trigger shifters work so much nicer, more precise, and faster.

I actually put twist shifters on one of my mountain bikes a couple of months back. I like them enough that I'll probably eventually convert all my mountain bikes over. I find them as precise as triggers, slightly slower for changing a single cog, but faster when dumping 3-5 at a time. And I like them much better for front shifting, since they let me trim the derailleur.

slackmeyer 07-25-2010 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducnut
I have aerobars on my 'cross and just added a set to her road bike. They really help with muscle aches around the spine/neck. I just relax on 'em and crank the miles.

I run Profile Design T1+ bars on everything. They have the highest stack height and most adjustability I know of. They're around $100, so they wouldn't be an overly expensive experiment.

Interesting you should say that- we were talking about the importance of aerodynamics today. I was riding with my wife and a couple of here friends, they all train for their double centuries together. I was surprised at how un-aero they were. Comfort is king on long rides, I know, but presenting less surface area seems like it makes a dramatic difference. I may try the aero bars.

pierce 07-25-2010 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oznerol
I actually put twist shifters on one of my mountain bikes a couple of months back. I like them enough that I'll probably eventually convert all my mountain bikes over. I find them as precise as triggers, slightly slower for changing a single cog, but faster when dumping 3-5 at a time. And I like them much better for front shifting, since they let me trim the derailleur.

I still like thumb friction shifters, especially the old suntour ones. you can go up or down as many gears as you want, and front trim? trivial. a couple of days riding with them and you'll be nailing your shifts just about as quick as a trigger shift. more than 7 in the back might get a little tricky, I guess. but geez, I rode centuries and centuries with 2x5 speeds, 2x7 or 3x7 is way plenty enough gearing.

trailer Rails 07-26-2010 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
I still like thumb friction shifters, especially the old suntour ones. you can go up or down as many gears as you want, and front trim? trivial. a couple of days riding with them and you'll be nailing your shifts just about as quick as a trigger shift. more than 7 in the back might get a little tricky, I guess. but geez, I rode centuries and centuries with 2x5 speeds, 2x7 or 3x7 is way plenty enough gearing.

Thumb shifters are the shit. I still run triggers, but you can get thumb shifters for whatever gearing you want (up to 11 speed Campy). You just have to use the Pauls thumbies adapter.

http://www.paulcomp.com/mtthumbie.html


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