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-   -   Bicycle thread (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150964)

Dranrab Luap 07-27-2010 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slackmeyer
Cranked out 102 miles today on the road bike- first time I've been on the road in a few months. I started out thinking I'd do 75-80 miles, but I was feeling good, so I kept going.

Thanks to whoever (ducnut?) posted the articles on tire pressure- I'm running my 700x23 tires at about 100 psi now, down from 120. That, along getting rid of those specialized armadillos, makes the ride much, much nicer.

Oh, and Boure bibs are the shit. Seriously, I never even thought about being saddle sore. My only sore spot is my neck (I spent a lot of time in the drops, because it seemed like the wind kept shifting to slow me down).

I went from those to Conti Gator Skins and it made a HUGE difference!

jocflier 07-27-2010 06:27 AM

I ride a LOOK, and it doesn't make me look sexy.:lol3 :cry



Quote:

Originally Posted by kbasa
Perfect, Mike. Thanks! :freaky :clap

I hadn't thought of a Look for her. Of course, that means I'll need something as sexy as a Look, too. :D


skwidd 07-27-2010 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kbasa
Perfect, Mike. Thanks! :freaky :clap

I hadn't thought of a Look for her. Of course, that means I'll need something as sexy as a Look, too. :D


I've seen one somewhere that is prolly close to her size :D

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/799587185_Gf4Qo-L.jpg

kbasa 07-27-2010 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skwidd
I've seen one somewhere that is prolly close to her size :D

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/799587185_Gf4Qo-L.jpg


:clap :clap :clap

Javarilla 07-27-2010 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Yea, have read that too. 25mm tires have a lower rolling resistance than 23mm. I wonder how a 28mm tire would compare?

The main reason most pro riders run 23mm tires is because of wind resistance. It takes more work to push a larger tire through the wind.

Recently I was reading an article on air pressure and was surprised on how low they said I could go. For a 23mm tire they said I could run as low as 85psi without any real drag issues. I am 170lbs. I have always played with low pressures on the mtb, sometimes using pressures in the high teens, but I have always kept my road bikes pumped up to 105-110.

I ride 28's on my Indy Fab (Schwalbe marathons). Prefer about 75lbs of pressure. I weigh 260. Speed is not a pressing concern, as I'm more of a randonneur, but, I've found that comfort begins turning into speed at around the 80 mile mark, and at 150 miles, it it directly correlated to distance over time.

pierce 07-27-2010 01:06 PM

not wanting to dig back through 1500 pages of this thread, cna someone point me at this tire size / pressure / weight table/calculator?

I'd love to see what it says about my 225 lbs and 42c vs 38c. the 42c felt 'right' at about 50psi (label said 35-70psi), and the 38c feel good at about 65psi (label says 40-80psi).

Gummee! 07-27-2010 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
If you look closely, his wheels are rim brake only with ceramic rims. Mavic probably sell 2 pairs of those a year to the US and 1000 to Europe.

Well hell.

Nevermind.

I need to upgrade to discs on the mtn bike. :nod Mud, etc. ya know! (mtn biking is typically a winter thing for me... off-road at nite = :ricky)

M

pierce 07-27-2010 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!
Well hell.

Nevermind.

I need to upgrade to discs on the mtn bike. :nod Mud, etc. ya know! (mtn biking is typically a winter thing for me... off-road at nite = :ricky)

M

I should sell you my Stumpjumper FSR Disc. its a M, and I really need a L. fox float with manual lockout in the back, hydraulic Shimano disks, the front forks are lame Axels, but I put upgraded springs in them so they aren't too mushy and they have enough damping to not pogo, which is what counts... 100mm travel front and rear. goes pretty good in deep mud, I've tested it.

http://www.hogranch.com/digi-2006/20...s/IMG_5592.JPG

Gummee! 07-27-2010 03:24 PM

Yeah, I've ridden behind you. Its too small. S'why I was :confused when you said you'd bought a 15" frame.

I'm on the (very) broke side right now, but keep me in mind.

M

pierce 07-27-2010 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!
Yeah, I've ridden behind you. Its too small. S'why I was :confused when you said you'd bought a 15" frame.

I'm on the (very) broke side right now, but keep me in mind.

M


the 15" hybrid frame almost worked for me, with a 400mm seat post and the right stem, but it was just a little short front to rear and the long seatpost left me feeling a little uneasy about my ~ 220 lb mass. This new Specialized Crossroads frame is something silly like an '18', and a normal 350mm seat post can go higher than my legs want to stretch so thats good. more important, the effective/virtual TT length is better.

Gummee! 07-27-2010 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
the 15" hybrid frame almost worked for me, with a 400mm seat post and the right stem, but it was just a little short front to rear and the long seatpost left me feeling a little uneasy about my ~ 220 lb mass. This new Specialized Crossroads frame is something silly like an '18', and a normal 350mm seat post can go higher than my legs want to stretch so thats good. more important, the effective/virtual TT length is better.

Like I said: that's why I was :confused when you bought it.

18/19" are a better fit for you.

...but then again, you've figgered that out already...

M

PaleRider 07-27-2010 07:39 PM

... this evening I just picked up a very clean, used (2007) Yeti 575 :ricky

(kinda excited, as I haven't upgraded my mtn bike situation in a while - inaugural ride tomorrow)

pierce 07-27-2010 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!
Like I said: that's why I was :confused when you bought it.

18/19" are a better fit for you.

...but then again, you've figgered that out already...

M

my old road bike is 23.5" center to center, and maybe 24" to the top of seat tube. I think this is about a 60cm by modern standards. but back then, the rule was, the tallest frame you could stand over with maybe an inch of clearance before you hit hard parts, never mind junk. today, I'd probably ride a 57-58

my old Stumpjumper is 21.5" center to center. And I used to do crazy stuff on that, crashed many times, hah.

I'm 6'0 tall but wear 31" inseam pants, so my legs are a little shorter than norm. my 5'4" 15 yr old daughter (who until really recently was the tiniest girl in her age group) appears to be growing legs, as she gets on my bikes and says the seat is OK (I think its maybe an inch too high). I'm starting to think that trek420 roadie-to-hybrid conversion she's riding is a little small for her but she likes it just fine.

I asked her which of these to keep if I was to get rid of one...

keep this: <img align=top src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JS1yca5KB-0/S-dNirG4pyI/AAAAAAAAshI/K9Frib-OIrM/s400/IMG_5782.JPG"> or this... <img align=top src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_JS1yca5KB-0/TC6rORH0aCI/AAAAAAAAvHs/kKfg14hULyc/s400/IMG_6986.JPG">

and she likes the first one, my old cruiser i've had since the late 70s, better.

its got a tig welded crack in the seat tube above the top tube. my -other- welding friend, who's an amateur machinist, said he thinks we should have sleeved it.

actually, #2 has already gotten a different crankset (a cheap steel shimano mtn triple ring), semi-northwood style bars, and twist shifters (cuz I had them). and #1 as of this moment has only a front brake and the wrong brake lever (canti levers suck with v-brakes) and a crappy seat and no grips. but I'll sort it out again.

anyone want a rather nice nearly new IRD 13-34 7-speed freewheel (eg, threaded)? has evenly spaced gears, not the big jump on the 34. SWMBO is not real amused that my $45 bike is way over several hundred now (except, whoa, there's more than one of them!!)

trailer Rails 07-27-2010 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
my -other- welding friend, who's an amateur machinist, said he thinks we should have sleeved it.

I think as long as there is a good bit of seatpost extend down below the welded area there is nothing to worry about. It is a steel frame, right?

pierce 07-27-2010 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
I think as long as there is a good bit of seatpost extend down below the welded area there is nothing to worry about. It is a steel frame, right?

it is. its a 70s unknown cruiser 1-speed that was converted to a 5-speed with a redline fork and repainted before I got it in the late 70s... its weak spot is that it requires A) a long seat post, and B) 13/16ths. yes, not even 7/8ths, its a 13/16ths seat post. because its a cruiser frame, if you want decent leg extension, you need a long seat post.

the current seat post is a fluted alloy 7/8ths BMX post that I had my friend with the machine shop turn it down to 13/16ths up to a given point which I decided was my 'cruiser' height, about 2-3" below my 'extended' height. when I broke the seat tube, I had elevated the post to said extended height, and the bottom of the seat post was in the seat tube just above where the cruiser's top tube met the seat tube.... I also bent said alloy seat tube a bit, eeek. anyways, I used a rubber mallet to tap said slightly bent post down in as far as the shoulder of where we turned it, and that puts the bottom of the post well below the weld and the top tube intersection


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