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jocflier 09-18-2010 04:58 PM

I'm Sorry. Hang in there you are doing great. Once I get my weight off and get my legs under me. I see a Mt bike in my future.

joc:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by pilot
So why did you post that right before I post that I did 11.3? :fitz

I did some of the single track, though, so that should count for something.


ducnut 09-18-2010 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jocflier
52.2 today.:clap I am toast...:snore First time I have ever broke the 50 mile mark. Sloooooowly coming around.

Joc

^^^ Keep at it. Cali ain't exactly flat.


So, today was my GF's birthday. I got her a new-used ride. Found it on eBay. Hadn't been ridden but a few times and was fairly local. Paid about 55% of new, so I couldn't pass on it. It's a '10 Specialized Tricross Expert in a 49cm. This bike fits her so much better than her oversized, 54cm Specialized Dolce.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...s/IMG_1380.jpg

The only real negative of the Expert model is the 46T/36T chainrings on a 130mm BC. It makes for a close ratio drivetrain on the racecourse, but, not quite low enough with a standard road cassette.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...s/IMG_1381.jpg

This bike came with a Rival groupset, but, the PO didn't like the SRAM shifting method. So, her husband swapped the levers and RD for Shimano 105. I pulled that stuff, sold it to an inmate's friend, and picked up SRAM Apex derailleurs, 12-36 cassette, levers, and a PG1091 chain; all off eBay. With the 36T small 'ring and 36T cassette, she'll have plenty low enough gear. I swapped the OEM knobbies for the OEM Burroughs off my Tricross and snagged myself a set of Continentals; also off eBay.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...s/IMG_1382.jpg

The PO put on a stupid-expensive FSA OS115 stem with 6 degree rise/drop that I sold on eBay. I wanted the bars much higher. So, I snagged this 70mm, 125 degree Dimension piece; also, off eBay. The top of the steerer is just barely above the stem, with the spacers in this configuration. So, this is where the stem will have to be. Carbon headset looks sweet in the setting sun.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...s/IMG_1383.jpg

I pulled the aerobars off her Dolce and put them on this bike (their position isn't dialed in, yet). The computer is a Cateye V2c; also off eBay. Wrapped everything in Fizik bar tape; also off eBay.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...s/IMG_1384.jpg

This was an interesting and fun project. I used eBay as much as possible to help control costs. I didn't want to spend new money for the bike or retail for the parts. With selling the takeoff stuff, I ended up at about 2/3 of what this bike would've cost new OTD with no extras.

TheNedster 09-18-2010 06:09 PM

Reduced to lurking for the next few weeks. Stuck in Cleveland with nothing to ride except the Life Cycles @ the Bally's across the freeway.

meh. :bluduh

k7 09-18-2010 06:22 PM

We were up at 0500 and took Kimble for a 2-mile walk. The only riding I did was to the gym - 1/2 mile each way but I did move a little weight today and felt pretty good. I'm working out one way or the other from Saturday through Wednesday. Thursdays and Fridays are my days off.

It was almost 110F here today and it'll be only slightly cooler tomorrow. If I can get up early, I'll try to put in 10-12 miles - most of it will be the same single/dual track that I did last Sunday.

VelvtRide 09-18-2010 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducnut

So, today was my GF's birthday. I got her a new-used ride. Found it on eBay. Hadn't been ridden but a few times and was fairly local. Paid about 55% of new, so I couldn't pass on it. It's a '10 Specialized Tricross Expert in a 49cm. This bike fits her so much better than her oversized, 54cm Specialized Dolce.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...s/IMG_1380.jpg

Sweet present! You're quite an awesome dood to have put it all together for her like that. :raabia

Gummee! 09-18-2010 08:54 PM

I was out for a 3-hr ride today. Put the Ritchey Pro wheels on for the first time since I've been here. :thumb I'd put a 23t cassette on it. I found out that I'm not *quite* strong enough for the 39-23t combo around here just yet. :baldy Oh well.

...at about the furthest point away from home, my right knee is suddenly sore. Every time I try and stand up, there's pain at the 11 o'clock position (looking from the front) and when I try and put some power down, its still hurting. :bluduh Spin easy and I'm OK. Push on it and it hurts. My first thought was 'well THIS certainly sucks!' and right after that 'this don't bode well for 'cross season!'

I've moved my right cleat around. Evidently it was close, but obviously there was no cigar. I was off maybe a mm in fore aft positioning and a little less side-side. Riding easy for an hour here or there didn't bother it, but now that I'm back to doing longer rides, I guess that extra little bit is makin itself known. :huh

I cut the ride short by about 30min. I'm thinking about trying a short ride tomorrow AM before UW Hockey to see if the cleat adjustments make a difference. If I thought I could get a ride back from Lakewood, I'd ride down to UW Hockey. Get in a workout before the workout... 'Course, that'd prolly mean I played UW Hockey for shit. :bluduh Oh well. Mebbe it ain't such a good idea.

M

pierce 09-18-2010 08:58 PM

further adventures of...
Backstory: I got my college kid a old steel Trek road bike, a 1977 TX300 frame in very nice condition with a mix of old shimano 600 and new deore(!) parts. frame was meant for 120mm rear. deore hub is 135mm. :eek1
Update: I bought a vintage set of wheels today. DuraAce 6-speed. old 36h Mavic Module-E2 rims, straight DT spokes. spokes are all in a happy tune, rim is in great shape. got some ultragatorskin 25c to put on them.

now, this is probably one for gummee mostly, cuz i Dunno how many of the rest of you know 80s parts......

the duraace hubs have a chrome knurled locknuts. they have dull gold dust seals... the dustcap on the rear drive side is attached to the freewheel, and the hole in it is smaller than the flange on the locknut. I can't tell if this is a uniglide or threadon cluster. did they make a freewheel that had a dustcap attached to the cluster? or is that definately a UG ?

JohnBryer 09-18-2010 08:59 PM

33 mile ride today, with 4500 feet of elevation gain.

Afterwards, I ordered a new bike! :clap

2010 Cannondale Super6 with SRAM Red components.

Gummee! 09-18-2010 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
further adventures of...
Backstory: I got my college kid a old steel Trek road bike, a 1977 TX300 frame in very nice condition with a mix of old shimano 600 and new deore(!) parts. frame was meant for 120mm rear. deore hub is 135mm. :eek1
Update: I bought a vintage set of wheels today. DuraAce 6-speed. old 36h Mavic Module-E2 rims, straight DT spokes. spokes are all in a happy tune, rim is in great shape. got some ultragatorskin 25c to put on them.

now, this is probably one for gummee mostly, cuz i Dunno how many of the rest of you know 80s parts......

the duraace hubs have a chrome knurled locknuts. they have dull gold dust seals... the dustcap on the rear drive side is attached to the freewheel, and the hole in it is smaller than the flange on the locknut. I can't tell if this is a uniglide or threadon cluster. did they make a freewheel that had a dustcap attached to the cluster? or is that definately a UG ?

Got pics? I'm confused at whatcher tryin to describe.

6sp is gonna be Uniglide if its a freehub hub. Way to tell is if the freehub (FH) body has threads on the outside and the FH body ends flush with. If its Hyperglide (7sp and on...) there may/may not be threads on the end of the FH body, but the outer FH body is going to extend out over the axle assy.

If its a real FW, then you may have a D/A hub with grease ports in it. Its been so long since I've had a FW D/A that I don't remember if they did that or not. IIRC they did, but don't quote me.

To get cogs off UG FH bodies, all ya need is 2 chain whips. Lefty loosey on the small cog while holding the next one steady. Same thing happens with freeWHEELs too, so ya gotta watch what ya got.

M


edited to add: you can upgrade to 8sp by taking the old FH body off and buying a new one. It ain't cheap, but it can be done. D/A is held on by a 10mm bolt. Put the wrench in a vise and use the wheel to torque it off. DAMHIK that its WAY hard to get the FH body off when yer wheel's been unbuilt! :bluduh

Gummee! 09-18-2010 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnBryer
33 mile ride today, with 4500 feet of elevation gain.

Afterwards, I ordered a new bike! :clap

2010 Cannondale Super6 with SRAM Red components.

Yay for new bikes!

I'm thinkin about sayin eff it! and buying something cheap and carbon. Fetish has some good deals on their older carbon stuff. Since I ain't ridden anything else, its a good place to start.

M

pierce 09-18-2010 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!
Got pics? I'm confused at whatcher tryin to describe.

6sp is gonna be Uniglide if its a freehub hub. Way to tell is if the freehub (FH) body has threads on the outside and the FH body ends flush with. If its Hyperglide (7sp and on...) there may/may not be threads on the end of the FH body, but the outer FH body is going to extend out over the axle assy.

If its a real FW, then you may have a D/A hub with grease ports in it. Its been so long since I've had a FW D/A that I don't remember if they did that or not. IIRC they did, but don't quote me.

To get cogs off UG FH bodies, all ya need is 2 chain whips. Lefty loosey on the small cog while holding the next one steady. Same thing happens with freeWHEELs too, so ya gotta watch what ya got.

M


edited to add: you can upgrade to 8sp by taking the old FH body off and buying a new one. It ain't cheap, but it can be done. D/A is held on by a 10mm bolt. Put the wrench in a vise and use the wheel to torque it off. DAMHIK that its WAY hard to get the FH body off when yer wheel's been unbuilt! :bluduh

(I've been googling and reading all evening and am still confused)

I havent' seen any hubs quite like these. the chrome locknuts that have a knurled outer flange on the axles may indicate they are 7700 rather than 7400 series. The dull-gold metal dust covers on the freewheel/cassette axle side is the part that I'm unsure on. its identical to the dust covers on the front hub and teh non-drive side of the rear. all 4 dust covers have Dura-Ace stamped on them, and 6 or 6G, and two small holes, like for a spanner wrench. The dustcovers on the fronts and the non-driveside of the rear are attached to the shell (press or threaded, I dunno). The one thats on the drive side of the cassette/freewheel spins with the gears, not the hub or the axle. IF thats just a dust cover, this could be a threaded freewheel. OTOH, the shell has the hump on the drive side, which seems to indicate its a freehub. oh, and it *looks* like this dust cover won't clear the locknut on the axle, so that would have to be removed to remove the cassette.

there, is that enough confusion? i'm not sure i have a lens that will get close enough to these to get the details in focus. I'll try and get pix tomorrow.

the mavic module-e2 are apparently real good rims from the early 80s.

edited to add: apparently the HG freehub kit for early DA is no longer available. unobtanium :(

Gummee! 09-18-2010 10:17 PM

Have ya tried cleaning the hubs? The dull gold could very well be old grease. I know I'VE cleaned up hubs with that coloration only to find nice, shiny AL under there.

The holes in the dust cover may very well be grease ports. Stick yer Pedro's gun in there and squeeze. If grease oozes out around the axle, its a grease port. Some of em you needta rotate around so the holes line up all the way to the inside first, so look/play with it before you go blindly shooting goo in there.

M

Lemme check to see what I have in FH bodies. 'D/A only works with D/A' back then, so it isn't likely to be in my bin o' stuff. Up until D/A went 9sp if you had a D/A rear derailleur and wanted indexing, you HAD to use a D/A shifter. D/A had an older parallelogram and pulled more cable than 600 and 105. I hear rumors that you can jury-rig something, but why?!

If its a FH hub, the dust cover on the DS is gonna pull out with a screwdriver. GENTLY pry around the edges till it comes off. You'll needta get in there to clean out the grunge, so go slowly and DO NOT BEND the thing. :nono BAD things happen when you do that. DAMHIK

AFA getting the dust cover off to get the gears off. Nope. Gears come off independently of the FH body.

If the hub has a bulge in the inner area, it's prolly UG. The FW hubs didn't need the area reinforced for the bolt that's holding the FH body onto the hub itself.

Gummee! 09-18-2010 10:24 PM

Kee-rist! I'm an en-fucking-cyclopedia of useless old bicycle knowledge. Someone shoot me now!

M

pierce 09-18-2010 10:33 PM

ah, grease ports makes sense. the front hub has a oil port on the center of the shell too, with a spring cover.

the dust covers are definately that dull gold look metal, they are very clean. they are close to the color of old style premium freewheels that were that dull gold. these hubs are really clean, like they were never used that much, the vintage rims have no significant brake wear.

the wheels have an old set of 25c tires that I don't trust on them, i have to get some new tire irons as my kid's friend destroyed 2 of the 3 some time ago wrenching on a car (I don't want to know why they were using my tire irons, but they were just cheap chrome steel ones from the 80s). I *tried* to get the old tire off by hand, but there's just not quite enough slack even when I pinch and pull it down into the center of the rim.

the original DuraAce 6-speed cluster looks virtually unused, there's almost no wear on any teeth, so i'm just going to stick with it til it wears out, THEN worry about what to do (maybe find a 600 or 105 36H freewheel hub and spoke a wheel?)

pierce 09-18-2010 11:23 PM

oh. something else.... Fenders.
and I don't mean guitars... :super


...rainy season is coming to the left coast as it does every winter.. been sorta planning on doing fenders on a couple bikes for the wet winter here.

I'm looking closely at the construction on the 'nice' fenders, like SKS, Planet Bike, and I see something that kind of bothers me... the fender stays on most all of them stick up the sides of the fender. this looks like snag-city to me.
http://media.rei.com/media/684328_321Lrg.JPG

the classic fenders I used in the past, the stays were a U shaped loop, and there was nothing to snag on the sides. the sides were right length, instead of adjustable, and it all just worked very well.

is this something I should worry about, or is it a non-issue? anyone here ride with fenders?



I've still got the aluminum fenders for my 83 stumpjumper although they aren't mounted now......
http://www.hogranch.com/digi-2007/20...s/IMG_9137.JPG

I used to run those classic british plastic fenders on my old road bike, I can't remember the name, Imperial or something? it was discretely stamped in gold on the back bottom of the front. the hardware was all zinc plate, not stainless, so it only lasted a couple years if you were riding in the wet. they were full coverage fenders. I want to get something for my hybrid, currently 38c but I might end up more like 32c.


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