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Jeffy 09-23-2010 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
for road/hybrid purposes, the twist shifters are quite reasonable.. Maybe less so for extreme mounting riding, but thats not the sort of bike you'll be doing that on anyways. finding 6 or 7-speed trigger shifters will be challenging (I don't feel like digging back and counting sprockets on your picture, but I thought I saw 6 on the rear?)

I love thumb shifters but they aren't easy to find good ones. IMHO, the best were the early/mid 80's Suntour friction thumb shifters but many others would disagree. one nice thing about friction shifters is you don't care how many gears you have and cable adjustments are totally non-critical, as you fine tune the shift each time.

your shifters may well be repairable, it might just be something inside is too loose, or the ratchet pawls need cleaning.

It's a 3x7. Maybe I'll try to take the shifter apart again and see if I can fix it. Maybe it just needs to be greased.

I've seen some STX's on ebay for under $50 which might be worth it. If I'm not going to be upgrading it I'd rather try to keep it as original as possible.

Mr Head 09-23-2010 08:39 PM

Cranked up the way-back machine. And this got spit out.

An old video, there are some more to follow with Rich and I riding this same course at what appears to be a pace not too much off old women on ice with walkers.
Rich broke his finger protecting his camera. I had a wrist issue which lead to scotch and hands in the ice chest on the way home. But, that was a couple of weeks prior to the Worlds.
These people were scary fast.
1994 Grundig World Downhill Championships at Vail, Colorado
http://mr-head.smugmug.com/Cycling/C...62_LRHz8-M.jpg



Not the greatest, but I schlepped a big VHS camera up and down the mountain for a day.

Fried my heated vest on the way over burning little designs into my hide along the way. :lol3

pierce 09-23-2010 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
It's a 3x7. Maybe I'll try to take the shifter apart again and see if I can fix it. Maybe it just needs to be greased.

I've seen some STX's on ebay for under $50 which might be worth it. If I'm not going to be upgrading it I'd rather try to keep it as original as possible.


k, 7 speed is much much easier to find shifters for. any sort of used bike place should ahve all kinda choices in 7 speed shifters...

here's the current cheap shimano brifter (brake+shifter) set for 7-speed
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Lever+Set.aspx
this is a trigger shifter like you have now.

Jeffy 09-23-2010 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
k, 7 speed is much much easier to find shifters for. any sort of used bike place should ahve all kinda choices in 7 speed shifters...

here's the current cheap shimano brifter (brake+shifter) set for 7-speed
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Lever+Set.aspx
this is a trigger shifter like you have now.

Ah, cool! For that price I'll fix my old bike.

My original tires are 26x1.95". What size can I use? I'd like to maybe go with a fatter tire. 26x2.25"? What are some good cross tires? All-mountain?

pierce 09-23-2010 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
Ah, cool! For that price I'll fix my old bike.

My original tires are 26x1.95". What size can I use? I'd like to maybe go with a fatter tire. 26x2.25"? What are some good cross tires? All-mountain?

cyclocross bikes use skinny 700c wheels and typically 700x28 or x32 or so tires.

all mountain is a pretty generic description. that is a non-suspended hardtail, its really more useful as a city bike rather than a hard core mountain bike. lots of choices. you could probably put anywhere from x1.5 to x2.25 on that bike without too much trouble. fatter wheels are heavier and slower. if you're going to ride on wet/loose stuff on hills, go for more knobs. if you're going to ride mostly on dirt roads and hard pack trails that aren't too steep or loose, slicks or sem islicks are fine. me, I'd get a 1.9" semi-slick, like a Specialized Hemisphere.

trailer Rails 09-24-2010 05:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
It's a 3x7. Maybe I'll try to take the shifter apart again and see if I can fix it. Maybe it just needs to be greased.

I've seen some STX's on ebay for under $50 which might be worth it. If I'm not going to be upgrading it I'd rather try to keep it as original as possible.

Don't take the shifter apart. They can be a pain to get back together properly. Spray it with PB blaster or WD40. Work the shifter through the gears a bit. Repeat. Then let it sit for a day. When you come back the shifter probaly will work just fine. Unless the first time you took it apart you might have screwed something up. A new shifter/brake lever set will run you about $30. Make sure they are cantilever compatible (most are not and most bike shop employees do not know the difference).

Askel 09-24-2010 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Head
1994 Grundig World Downhill Championships at Vail, Colorado
http://mr-head.smugmug.com/Cycling/C...62_LRHz8-M.jpg


Fucking awesome!

More!

Really, how exactly did purple anodized aluminum ever go out of style? :lol3

Mr Head 09-24-2010 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Askel
Fucking awesome!

More!

Really, how exactly did purple anodized aluminum ever go out of style? :lol3

I have some of me and my buddy riding. I need to do some editing and restoration. This movie making thing takes a bit of time.
You know this isn't "The Valley" where we can just through together a blockbuster pron vid in a few minutes. :lol3

I have some purple anodized skewers on my old mtb.
http://mr-head.smugmug.com/Cycling/B..._myHu2-L-1.jpg

Those from back when cotton was not king and music sucked but was played for plastic dance floors filled with polyester clad people and lots of lights and really big sound. Professionally ugly clothes not like those cheater golf outfits either.
:rilla

pierce 09-24-2010 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Don't take the shifter apart. They can be a pain to get back together properly. Spray it with PB blaster or WD40. Work the shifter through the gears a bit. Repeat. Then let it sit for a day. When you come back the shifter probaly will work just fine. Unless the first time you took it apart you might have screwed something up. A new shifter/brake lever set will run you about $30. Make sure they are cantilever compatible (most are not and most bike shop employees do not know the difference).

this one is either short or long pull brakes, and available in silver or black :deal
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Lever+Set.aspx
http://images.jensonusa.com/large/sl/sl308b13blk__7.jpg

$23 plus the usual $6 or so for USPS priority, thats $30 at your door unless you're in California and pay the extra 8% to the Guvenator. I've ordered quite a lot from Jenson and gotten fast service (I'll hit up my LBS first if I thnk they have it, then go to Jenson if they don't)

I dug up the ST-EF50 P/N of those on Shimano's site, they are used with Altus and Tourney... if you could find the 'Deore' version, they'd be nicer but also more expensive, catch-22, new Deore stuff is 9-10 speed, not 7 or 8 speed.

Jeffy 09-24-2010 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
cyclocross bikes use skinny 700c wheels and typically 700x28 or x32 or so tires.

all mountain is a pretty generic description. that is a non-suspended hardtail, its really more useful as a city bike rather than a hard core mountain bike. lots of choices. you could probably put anywhere from x1.5 to x2.25 on that bike without too much trouble. fatter wheels are heavier and slower. if you're going to ride on wet/loose stuff on hills, go for more knobs. if you're going to ride mostly on dirt roads and hard pack trails that aren't too steep or loose, slicks or sem islicks are fine. me, I'd get a 1.9" semi-slick, like a Specialized Hemisphere.

Hmm, never really thought about going with slicks. I've always run tires with fast centers though. Are Resolution Sport's any good? Or maybe the Compound Control? What about other brands? Kenda, Maxxis Holy Roller or Hookworm? I will probably ride on roads but some/many are unmaintained and are loose with cracks and steps. Course asphalt as well. There might be some single track dirt as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Don't take the shifter apart. They can be a pain to get back together properly. Spray it with PB blaster or WD40. Work the shifter through the gears a bit. Repeat. Then let it sit for a day. When you come back the shifter probaly will work just fine. Unless the first time you took it apart you might have screwed something up. A new shifter/brake lever set will run you about $30. Make sure they are cantilever compatible (most are not and most bike shop employees do not know the difference).

Actually I never got into the actual innards. I did find an exploded diagram for it though. Still probably best to leave it and either soak it or just replace it seeing as the replacement parts are $30.

Jeffy 09-24-2010 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
this one is either short or long pull brakes, and available in silver or black :deal
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Lever+Set.aspx
http://images.jensonusa.com/large/sl/sl308b13blk__7.jpg

$23 plus the usual $6 or so for USPS priority, thats $30 at your door unless you're in California and pay the extra 8% to the Guvenator. I've ordered quite a lot from Jenson and gotten fast service (I'll hit up my LBS first if I thnk they have it, then go to Jenson if they don't)

I dug up the ST-EF50 P/N of those on Shimano's site, they are used with Altus and Tourney... if you could find the 'Deore' version, they'd be nicer but also more expensive, catch-22, new Deore stuff is 9-10 speed, not 7 or 8 speed.

Actually, I found the same ones on Amazon for $25 with free shipping and no sales tax. CA is at 9.25% with some areas as high as 9.75%. :puke1, As long as it works with my derailers, I don't care. :lol3 I'd just like to get the bike working so I can ride again at this point. I'll first try soaking the OE's and see if that fixes it them move from there. Hopefully it's just stuck.

SeaBass 09-24-2010 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
I dug my beater out of the garage and took some pictures. I've had it since new and it's all original, even the tires. I looked up the specs. but the ones listed on a third-party site don't really match my bike 100%. I think it's a '86 or '87 from the color though. The only thing wrong with it is that the shifter for the front derailer is busted. If I put some new tires on it and a shifter and I think it would be 100% again. Still want a new bike though. :lol3

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0015.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0018.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0020.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0021.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0028.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...2/DSC_0029.jpghttp://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...2/DSC_0024.jpghttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...2/DSC_0016.jpg

I still have my 90 Rockhopper which is now a singlespeed. I added a Rock Shox Judy XC with Englund air cartridges in '95 and later added a set of avid v brakes with levers when I made it a SS. A fork is going to be hard to find unless you go vintage as that's a 1" threaded headset you have on there and the industry switched to 1 1/8 threadless in the mid 90's or so.
Don't go larger than 2.1 in the rear or you'll be rubbing your chainstays. Go larger than 2.1 in the front and you'll have to deflate the tire to get it past your brakes, then re-inflate which is a PIA.
If you get a 7 spd brifter combo, make sure it will work with the canti brakes.
Those were very versatile frames, as they had braze ons for racks and what not, were relatively light, had comfortable geometry, and have a nice steel ride. Mine even had 1.5 slicks on it at one time and was used as a commuter bike when I lived in NYC. I still like to ride mine on the trails occasionally. It's always good for comments from the full suspension crowd - "You're riding that thing?" but it often remains hanging on the wall as I prefer my Dambala 29er.
Good luck with it!

pierce 09-24-2010 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
Actually, I found the same ones on Amazon for $25 with free shipping and no sales tax. CA is at 9.25% with some areas as high as 9.75%. :puke1, As long as it works with my derailers, I don't care. :lol3 I'd just like to get the bike working so I can ride again at this point. I'll first try soaking the OE's and see if that fixes it them move from there. Hopefully it's just stuck.

warning. Niagara Cycles(?) on Amazon takes a week+ to ship sometimes. DAMHIK. :patch

ducnut 09-24-2010 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
warning. Niagara Cycles(?) on Amazon takes a week+ to ship sometimes. DAMHIK. :patch

I've only ordered once, from Niagra. Took over a week.

BikeSomeWhere lists products in stock, but, they're not. They get your order, then, they order from QBP. It'll take 2+ weeks to get your stuff.
I filed a consumer complaint against them, because they didn't ship one of the items I ordered. When I received my box from UPS (13 days after placing the order), they hit my PayPal with a refund (that morning), and listed the item as a return, before I figured out what they had done. Absolute bullshit, as I needed the item for a bike trip. This resulted in me calling around to find it and a 2-1/2hr roundtrip to pick it up.

I've had better luck with eBay vendors.

Jeffy 09-24-2010 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
warning. Niagara Cycles(?) on Amazon takes a week+ to ship sometimes. DAMHIK. :patch

Oh, I always go direct from Amazon when I can.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-EF5...d=CK8AFAHL12L3

Oh, I disassembled my bike to take a better assessment of it. I tried squirting WD40 into the shifter but it just make as oily sticky mess. I should have used Break-Free CLP instead. Actually I ended up cutting the crimped end off so I could take the whole thing out. Pulled the covering off and found my problem. The two ratchets aren't moving freely and the springs don't have enough spring to move them. I'm going to take them apart further and see if I can free them up. Otherwise, I'll just replace them.

Are V brakes better then cants? Mine seem to be in working order but I've seen many that have switched as well. :ear

I took the head apart and the grease is still grease and not a dried up mess. I'll repack those one I get closer to being able to ride it. I'm not sure if I'll be able to take the crank off. I don't have a spanner for it. wheel spindle spin freely but sound a bit dry. One tube is OK but the other has dry rot. I also noticed the bands on the wheels that cover the spoke ends are broke. Should I replace those? :ear

I'll have to order some new tires as well. Still researching those. Sure are expensive.

***update***

I took the shifter completely apart and the hooks were really gunked up. Sanded the spindles and ran a drill bit though the hooks and it seems to be working again. The hardest part of the whole thing is aligning all the the plates and springs. After a few dozen tries I got it together. I do not recommend WD-40 as it will gunk up everything once it dries. PD blaster or CLP.

Overall though not that hard although it isn't cake either.

The real test is to put it back on the bike and see if it still works.


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