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slackmeyer 09-26-2010 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Chabot is only a few miles from here. I measured the gap in the chain stay and it looks like a 2.5 would be pushing it with knobs. No mud to deal with though. 2.0-2.35 should fit from what I've seen on other RH's of the same vintage. I don't want to spend too much, under $40. What difference does folding vs. wire make? I noticed a weight difference but is there anything else? I'm used to folding.

Lemme look in the garage tomorrow- I think I have just the tire you're looking for, for the rear anyway. It's some sort of smooth center trail tire for hardpack. It'll work great for chabot, at least until the rains start. You're on your own for fronts, but I run WTB velociraptors on my mt. bike (a hardtail) and like them, especially for the price.

slackmeyer 09-26-2010 10:29 PM

Alright, here's what I found in the garage- a kenda klimax lite 26*1.95 for the rear, and a WTB nanoraptor 2.1 for the front. Both in good condition, and they're both low rolling resistance kevlar bead trail tires. If you can come pick them up in berkeley, they're yours. But I wouldn't say no to a 6 pack of something good. . . .

pierce 09-26-2010 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Chabot is only a few miles from here. I measured the gap in the chain stay and it looks like a 2.5 would be pushing it with knobs. No mud to deal with though. 2.0-2.35 should fit from what I've seen on other RH's of the same vintage. I don't want to spend too much, under $40. What difference does folding vs. wire make? I noticed a weight difference but is there anything else? I'm used to folding.

folding tires can be folded up and carried as a spare. they cost more, and they are lighter. thats about it.

I'd go for a 2.2 then. maybe even the 2.0. fatter == heavier, slower.

Specialized Captain Sport looks like a great trail tire.
Conti Race King does too.

trailer Rails 09-27-2010 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!
The problem he's gonna run in to is that the brake levers he has are NOT v-brake compatible. :nah If you get some Tektro mini-vs or the new TRP CX9s you can run the same levers as a canti.

Otherwise? :nono

M

Thanks for the lesson. :deal Maybe you should read the rest of the discussion that was taking place. He is replacing his shifter/brake levers setup and has the opportunity to buy v-brake compatible levers.

trailer Rails 09-27-2010 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
I have a 2001 "medium" Stumpjumper FSR Disk that I'm not using. I really need a longer "large". its got 4" of travel front and rear, hydraulic disk brakes, and is a pretty darn good mtn bike, mostly deore, 3x9. its got the fox float shock from before the 'brain'. Its all in good shape, never been beat on or jumped, and not really ridden that much. make me an offer.

Don't forget to mention that leaky rear shock. :lol3

trailer Rails 09-27-2010 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Chabot is only a few miles from here. I measured the gap in the chain stay and it looks like a 2.5 would be pushing it with knobs. No mud to deal with though. 2.0-2.35 should fit from what I've seen on other RH's of the same vintage. I don't want to spend too much, under $40. What difference does folding vs. wire make? I noticed a weight difference but is there anything else? I'm used to folding.


Look at the specialized hardrock, they are cheep and pretty knobby. That way when you burn them off on pavement they will be cheep to replace. They might be an good option for you.

You don't need folding tires on that bike. The weight is not going to make all the much of a difference. Plus you will save a lot of money going with wire bead.

Mercury264 09-27-2010 08:46 AM

Having some issues with a friend's bike. I cannot get the seat stem (original - came with the bike) to stop slipping into the frame (sure there's a better way to describe it) no matter how tight I make the bolt. Actually, I've snapped a couple bolts trying to tighten them to stop the seat sinking.

Anything I can do to stop it ?

trailer Rails 09-27-2010 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mercury264
Having some issues with a friend's bike. I cannot get the seat stem (original - came with the bike) to stop slipping into the frame (sure there's a better way to describe it) no matter how tight I make the bolt. Actually, I've snapped a couple bolts trying to tighten them to stop the seat sinking.

Anything I can do to stop it ?

Is it possible that it is the wrong size? It should fit snugly into the frame. They make seatposts in 0.2mm incrimination. If you dont want to buy a new post, you might be able to make a shim out of a beer can. Use a Fosters can or Sapporo can if you need a thicker shim.

papavero 09-27-2010 09:07 AM

Seat post clamping
 
Syntace Friction Paste Bicycle Grease - 20 Gram Syringe - 9084000-S

Product Description

Syntace adhesion paste increases friction with its micro particles on the mounting surfaces of carbon and aluminum components. Just apply thin and evenly to the degreased clamping surfaces of bar, stem and seatpost. The necessary torque value for safe clamping can be reduced by up to 30%. The Syntace adhesion paste also offers other benefits such as excellent protection from corrosion and elimination of annoying creaking noises.

A co-worker has used this with good results.

trailer Rails 09-27-2010 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papavero
Syntace Friction Paste Bicycle Grease - 20 Gram Syringe - 9084000-S

Product Description

Syntace adhesion paste increases friction with its micro particles on the mounting surfaces of carbon and aluminum components. Just apply thin and evenly to the degreased clamping surfaces of bar, stem and seatpost. The necessary torque value for safe clamping can be reduced by up to 30%. The Syntace adhesion paste also offers other benefits such as excellent protection from corrosion and elimination of annoying creaking noises.

A co-worker has used this with good results.

That is stuff is good, although it is mainly intended for use with carbon components. That is another point, if the seatpost is made of carbon fiber and someone greased it, that will cause issues also. You will need to clean all the grease off. You will also have to clean the seat tube of the bike. From there you have two choices, you can put a carbon seat post into a frame without any lube. I prefer to use some of the " carbon lube" that Papavero posted above.

svs 09-27-2010 10:06 AM

One of the first Mountain Bikes mass produced.
 
1984 Schwinn High Sierra. Took it up to Big Bear this weekend. Such a cool old bike. Well made. Still on the original chain, cranks and Gears.

Thousands of MILES and it's all GOOD...hard to believe.

http://f-d.smugmug.com/Other/Bicycle...5_7ASKd-XL.jpg

Mercury264 09-27-2010 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Is it possible that it is the wrong size? It should fit snugly into the frame. They make seatposts in 0.2mm incrimination. If you dont want to buy a new post, you might be able to make a shim out of a beer can. Use a Fosters can or Sapporo can if you need a thicker shim.

It's the original seatpost so I would assume it should fit :dunno

I did replace the bolt since, as I said, I snapped the original trying to tighten it to stop the seatpost slipping.

I might try the beer can shim...sure I can find some beer somewhere in the house :freaky

Mercury264 09-27-2010 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papavero
Syntace Friction Paste Bicycle Grease - 20 Gram Syringe - 9084000-S

Product Description

Syntace adhesion paste increases friction with its micro particles on the mounting surfaces of carbon and aluminum components. Just apply thin and evenly to the degreased clamping surfaces of bar, stem and seatpost. The necessary torque value for safe clamping can be reduced by up to 30%. The Syntace adhesion paste also offers other benefits such as excellent protection from corrosion and elimination of annoying creaking noises.

A co-worker has used this with good results.

Thanks :thumb

I'll try other things but this at least gives me some other options.

Mercury264 09-27-2010 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
That is stuff is good, although it is mainly intended for use with carbon components. That is another point, if the seatpost is made of carbon fiber and someone greased it, that will cause issues also. You will need to clean all the grease off. You will also have to clean the seat tube of the bike. From there you have two choices, you can put a carbon seat post into a frame without any lube. I prefer to use some of the " carbon lube" that Papavero posted above.

Seatpost is a standard el cheapo chromed seatpost. Adding a CF one would immediately triple the bike's value so that....'aint happening :D

pierce 09-27-2010 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mercury264
Seatpost is a standard el cheapo chromed seatpost. Adding a CF one would immediately triple the bike's value so that....'aint happening :D

I've had good luck with the KAlloy $20 aluminum posts. geez, chrome posts only come on low end cruisers and BMX bikes.


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