ADVrider

ADVrider (http://www.advrider.com/forums/index.php)
-   Sports (http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=72)
-   -   Bicycle thread (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150964)

pierce 09-24-2010 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Don't take the shifter apart. They can be a pain to get back together properly. Spray it with PB blaster or WD40. Work the shifter through the gears a bit. Repeat. Then let it sit for a day. When you come back the shifter probaly will work just fine. Unless the first time you took it apart you might have screwed something up. A new shifter/brake lever set will run you about $30. Make sure they are cantilever compatible (most are not and most bike shop employees do not know the difference).

this one is either short or long pull brakes, and available in silver or black :deal
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Lever+Set.aspx
http://images.jensonusa.com/large/sl/sl308b13blk__7.jpg

$23 plus the usual $6 or so for USPS priority, thats $30 at your door unless you're in California and pay the extra 8% to the Guvenator. I've ordered quite a lot from Jenson and gotten fast service (I'll hit up my LBS first if I thnk they have it, then go to Jenson if they don't)

I dug up the ST-EF50 P/N of those on Shimano's site, they are used with Altus and Tourney... if you could find the 'Deore' version, they'd be nicer but also more expensive, catch-22, new Deore stuff is 9-10 speed, not 7 or 8 speed.

Jeffy 09-24-2010 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
cyclocross bikes use skinny 700c wheels and typically 700x28 or x32 or so tires.

all mountain is a pretty generic description. that is a non-suspended hardtail, its really more useful as a city bike rather than a hard core mountain bike. lots of choices. you could probably put anywhere from x1.5 to x2.25 on that bike without too much trouble. fatter wheels are heavier and slower. if you're going to ride on wet/loose stuff on hills, go for more knobs. if you're going to ride mostly on dirt roads and hard pack trails that aren't too steep or loose, slicks or sem islicks are fine. me, I'd get a 1.9" semi-slick, like a Specialized Hemisphere.

Hmm, never really thought about going with slicks. I've always run tires with fast centers though. Are Resolution Sport's any good? Or maybe the Compound Control? What about other brands? Kenda, Maxxis Holy Roller or Hookworm? I will probably ride on roads but some/many are unmaintained and are loose with cracks and steps. Course asphalt as well. There might be some single track dirt as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Don't take the shifter apart. They can be a pain to get back together properly. Spray it with PB blaster or WD40. Work the shifter through the gears a bit. Repeat. Then let it sit for a day. When you come back the shifter probaly will work just fine. Unless the first time you took it apart you might have screwed something up. A new shifter/brake lever set will run you about $30. Make sure they are cantilever compatible (most are not and most bike shop employees do not know the difference).

Actually I never got into the actual innards. I did find an exploded diagram for it though. Still probably best to leave it and either soak it or just replace it seeing as the replacement parts are $30.

Jeffy 09-24-2010 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
this one is either short or long pull brakes, and available in silver or black :deal
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Lever+Set.aspx
http://images.jensonusa.com/large/sl/sl308b13blk__7.jpg

$23 plus the usual $6 or so for USPS priority, thats $30 at your door unless you're in California and pay the extra 8% to the Guvenator. I've ordered quite a lot from Jenson and gotten fast service (I'll hit up my LBS first if I thnk they have it, then go to Jenson if they don't)

I dug up the ST-EF50 P/N of those on Shimano's site, they are used with Altus and Tourney... if you could find the 'Deore' version, they'd be nicer but also more expensive, catch-22, new Deore stuff is 9-10 speed, not 7 or 8 speed.

Actually, I found the same ones on Amazon for $25 with free shipping and no sales tax. CA is at 9.25% with some areas as high as 9.75%. :puke1, As long as it works with my derailers, I don't care. :lol3 I'd just like to get the bike working so I can ride again at this point. I'll first try soaking the OE's and see if that fixes it them move from there. Hopefully it's just stuck.

SeaBass 09-24-2010 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
I dug my beater out of the garage and took some pictures. I've had it since new and it's all original, even the tires. I looked up the specs. but the ones listed on a third-party site don't really match my bike 100%. I think it's a '86 or '87 from the color though. The only thing wrong with it is that the shifter for the front derailer is busted. If I put some new tires on it and a shifter and I think it would be 100% again. Still want a new bike though. :lol3

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0015.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0018.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0020.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0021.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...0/DSC_0028.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...2/DSC_0029.jpghttp://lh3.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...2/DSC_0024.jpghttp://lh6.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/TJ...2/DSC_0016.jpg

I still have my 90 Rockhopper which is now a singlespeed. I added a Rock Shox Judy XC with Englund air cartridges in '95 and later added a set of avid v brakes with levers when I made it a SS. A fork is going to be hard to find unless you go vintage as that's a 1" threaded headset you have on there and the industry switched to 1 1/8 threadless in the mid 90's or so.
Don't go larger than 2.1 in the rear or you'll be rubbing your chainstays. Go larger than 2.1 in the front and you'll have to deflate the tire to get it past your brakes, then re-inflate which is a PIA.
If you get a 7 spd brifter combo, make sure it will work with the canti brakes.
Those were very versatile frames, as they had braze ons for racks and what not, were relatively light, had comfortable geometry, and have a nice steel ride. Mine even had 1.5 slicks on it at one time and was used as a commuter bike when I lived in NYC. I still like to ride mine on the trails occasionally. It's always good for comments from the full suspension crowd - "You're riding that thing?" but it often remains hanging on the wall as I prefer my Dambala 29er.
Good luck with it!

pierce 09-24-2010 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
Actually, I found the same ones on Amazon for $25 with free shipping and no sales tax. CA is at 9.25% with some areas as high as 9.75%. :puke1, As long as it works with my derailers, I don't care. :lol3 I'd just like to get the bike working so I can ride again at this point. I'll first try soaking the OE's and see if that fixes it them move from there. Hopefully it's just stuck.

warning. Niagara Cycles(?) on Amazon takes a week+ to ship sometimes. DAMHIK. :patch

ducnut 09-24-2010 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
warning. Niagara Cycles(?) on Amazon takes a week+ to ship sometimes. DAMHIK. :patch

I've only ordered once, from Niagra. Took over a week.

BikeSomeWhere lists products in stock, but, they're not. They get your order, then, they order from QBP. It'll take 2+ weeks to get your stuff.
I filed a consumer complaint against them, because they didn't ship one of the items I ordered. When I received my box from UPS (13 days after placing the order), they hit my PayPal with a refund (that morning), and listed the item as a return, before I figured out what they had done. Absolute bullshit, as I needed the item for a bike trip. This resulted in me calling around to find it and a 2-1/2hr roundtrip to pick it up.

I've had better luck with eBay vendors.

Jeffy 09-24-2010 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
warning. Niagara Cycles(?) on Amazon takes a week+ to ship sometimes. DAMHIK. :patch

Oh, I always go direct from Amazon when I can.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-EF5...d=CK8AFAHL12L3

Oh, I disassembled my bike to take a better assessment of it. I tried squirting WD40 into the shifter but it just make as oily sticky mess. I should have used Break-Free CLP instead. Actually I ended up cutting the crimped end off so I could take the whole thing out. Pulled the covering off and found my problem. The two ratchets aren't moving freely and the springs don't have enough spring to move them. I'm going to take them apart further and see if I can free them up. Otherwise, I'll just replace them.

Are V brakes better then cants? Mine seem to be in working order but I've seen many that have switched as well. :ear

I took the head apart and the grease is still grease and not a dried up mess. I'll repack those one I get closer to being able to ride it. I'm not sure if I'll be able to take the crank off. I don't have a spanner for it. wheel spindle spin freely but sound a bit dry. One tube is OK but the other has dry rot. I also noticed the bands on the wheels that cover the spoke ends are broke. Should I replace those? :ear

I'll have to order some new tires as well. Still researching those. Sure are expensive.

***update***

I took the shifter completely apart and the hooks were really gunked up. Sanded the spindles and ran a drill bit though the hooks and it seems to be working again. The hardest part of the whole thing is aligning all the the plates and springs. After a few dozen tries I got it together. I do not recommend WD-40 as it will gunk up everything once it dries. PD blaster or CLP.

Overall though not that hard although it isn't cake either.

The real test is to put it back on the bike and see if it still works.

pierce 09-24-2010 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffy
Are V brakes better then cants? Mine seem to be in working order but I've seen many that have switched as well. :ear

I took the head apart and the grease is still grease and not a dried up mess. I'll repack those one I get closer to being able to ride it. I'm not sure if I'll be able to take the crank off. I don't have a spanner for it. wheel spindle spin freely but sound a bit dry. One tube is OK but the other has dry rot. I also noticed the bands on the wheels that cover the spoke ends are broke. Should I replace those? :ear

use the Velox rim tape rather than those annoying rubber bands.

to pull conventional square cranks, you need a crank puller, as well as whatever socket fits the bolt. old bottom brackets, I typically remove with a screwdriver and hammer, and replace with a Shimano UN54 or UN57 sealed bearing BB. about $25 or 30. make sure you measure your original BB axle, and get the replacement the exact same length. you will need a special tool to install/remove the Shimano BBs, it fits on a 3/8 drive ratchet, and costs about $12. clean the threads in the shell carefully (with a wire brush if they are rusty), then grease the metal thread side of the shimano BB thoroughly before inserting it. put the metal side in tight, THEN install the plastic taper keeper thing on the other side. clean and grease the square ends, clean the crank fittings throughly then bolt it all down firmly and wipe off any excess grease that oozes out. if your crank is loose, it will creak when you pedal.

I was too lazy to repack a couple wheel hubs, LBS did them for $20 each. ask your LBS how much they do them for.


edit: oh yeah... vbrakes vs cantis.

I'd stick with the cantilevers you have, just get some new shimano or koolstop pads and new cables. clean up the levers and re-grease the post first. use blue lock tight on end of the pivot bolt, but not near the head. clean the rims, too, if they have rubber build up.

vbrakes work really nicely when they are set up right, but they stick up quite a lot, and sometimes the rear brake 'noodle' ends up rather close to your leg. vbrakes require a 'long pull' brake lever, the cable moves farther but with less force. setup right they are very progressive and smooth. also, vbrake pads are really long, and sometimes run into your stays if the bike wasn't designed for them. I have vbrakes on my 26" fattire cruiser, they can haul my 220 lbs down from cruising speed to a full stop in a hurry with just a moderate 2-finger pull.

regular cantilevers use a 'short pull' brake levers, same basic distance-vs-power ratio as old school sidepull and centerpull caliber brakes. they are very strong and reliable brakes. also very simple and rugged.

those shimano 7-speed brifters said they were short or long pull, what that usually means is there's two places to attach the brake cable to the actual lever inside... this pdf shows the adjustment on a different lever (non-brifter) and v-brakes http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830604303.pdf
I see they don't recommend V-brakes with 4-finger brake levers unless you use a 'power modulator' which is a widget in the cable that decreases braking power so you don't accidentally lock up the wheels. I find they while they are very aggressive, they are pretty easy to modulate, I prefer the 2-finger levers.

Steverino 09-25-2010 03:36 AM

Since the shock of the new to me DS frame is off to Rockshox for rebuild, I reasembled the hard tail and took it for a spin. First time in 13 days. I am a slacker, I know.

13 miles 2300 ft of vertical and lots of fun. Adjusting the pressure in the front shock. Too little before, too much now. Gonna try 150 psi and see how that works...

http://steverino.smugmug.com/Cycling...6_d4xzQ-XL.jpg

Yes it is steeper than it looks...

http://steverino.smugmug.com/Cycling...5_aCtZp-XL.jpg

Still climbing. Going to be more fun coming down. :deal

http://steverino.smugmug.com/Cycling...7_Rwnpf-XL.jpg

At the top.

http://steverino.smugmug.com/Cycling...6_t56Yp-XL.jpg

Off for a 50 miler on the road bike today. Got to keep up with VR. :ksteve

VelvtRide 09-25-2010 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steverino

http://steverino.smugmug.com/Cycling...6_t56Yp-XL.jpg

Off for a 50 miler on the road bike today. Got to keep up with VR. :ksteve

Bring it, buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuudy. :deal


Jack and my dad have been talking about doing a metric century - I'm ready when the weather cools down. Then it'd be game on. :evil

trailer Rails 09-25-2010 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
u

edit: oh yeah... vbrakes vs cantis.

I'd stick with the cantilevers you have, just get some new shimano or koolstop pads and new cables. clean up the levers and re-grease the post first. use blue lock tight on end of the pivot bolt, but not near the head. clean the rims, too, if they have rubber build up.

vbrakes work really nicely when they are set up right, but they stick up quite a lot, and sometimes the rear brake 'noodle' ends up rather close to your leg. vbrakes require a 'long pull' brake lever, the cable moves farther but with less force. setup right they are very progressive and smooth. also, vbrake pads are really long, and sometimes run into your stays if the bike wasn't designed for them. I have vbrakes on my 26" fattire cruiser, they can haul my 220 lbs down from cruising speed to a full stop in a hurry with just a moderate 2-finger pull.

regular cantilevers use a 'short pull' brake levers, same basic distance-vs-power ratio as old school sidepull and centerpull caliber brakes. they are very strong and reliable brakes. also very simple and rugged.

those shimano 7-speed brifters said they were short or long pull, what that usually means is there's two places to attach the brake cable to the actual lever inside... this pdf shows the adjustment on a different lever (non-brifter) and v-brakes http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830604303.pdf
I see they don't recommend V-brakes with 4-finger brake levers unless you use a 'power modulator' which is a widget in the cable that decreases braking power so you don't accidentally lock up the wheels. I find they while they are very aggressive, they are pretty easy to modulate, I prefer the 2-finger levers.

Canti lever brakes can hit your legs also, they stick out more than most v-brakes.

I say go with v-brakes, more power and easier to adjust. You should be able to get a pair of cheep shimanos or Avids for about $10-15 per wheel. Do not get no name brakes.

You will be fine with the 4 finger levers. Just don't use 4 fingers on them. The power modulators suck, they are a noodle with a spring and they make your brakes hard to setup and spongy.

ducnut 09-25-2010 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Do not get no name brakes.

^^^ +1

Gummee! 09-25-2010 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steverino
At the top.

http://steverino.smugmug.com/Cycling...6_t56Yp-XL.jpg

Off for a 50 miler on the road bike today. Got to keep up with VR. :ksteve

Ahhh VA rock gardens! Just like moguls: you can hit the tops or the bottoms. You CAN NOT do both. :nono

M

Gummee! 09-25-2010 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
Canti lever brakes can hit your legs also, they stick out more than most v-brakes.

I say go with v-brakes, more power and easier to adjust. You should be able to get a pair of cheep shimanos or Avids for about $10-15 per wheel. Do not get no name brakes.

You will be fine with the 4 finger levers. Just don't use 4 fingers on them. The power modulators suck, they are a noodle with a spring and they make your brakes hard to setup and spongy.

The problem he's gonna run in to is that the brake levers he has are NOT v-brake compatible. :nah If you get some Tektro mini-vs or the new TRP CX9s you can run the same levers as a canti.

Otherwise? :nono

M

Cat0020 09-25-2010 09:36 AM

Not me, but couple of weeks ago I attended the opening day at Spring Mt. Launch event.

<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/xIlry0m7CjU?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/xIlry0m7CjU?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></object>


Times are GMT -7.   It's 12:34 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014