ADVrider

ADVrider (http://www.advrider.com/forums/index.php)
-   Sports (http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=72)
-   -   Bicycle thread (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150964)

pierce 11-30-2009 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
He is talking about the height of the fork. He is trying to keep the head angle about the same as it was with the suspension fork on there.

I think surly makes a fork that is pretty close to 18". It is the instigator fork.


oooh, I didn't even THINK about ride height, I was thinking about tire clearance. dropping the front end of the bike will be all kinda funky, like the seat tube will be more vertical so the rider's butt will be closer to directly on top of the pedals which is likely suboptimal, never mind the faster steering angle.

I have to say, I don't quite understand why the cure for too stiff/hard of a suspension fork is a rigid fork :loco

trailer Rails 11-30-2009 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
I have to say, I don't quite understand why the cure for too stiff/hard of a suspension fork is a rigid fork :loco

I have quit asking why. :rofl

Actually, if that fork had the right springs in it it would still suck. I would prefer a rigid steel fork and a big 2.7" tire over that fork. :clap

DoctorIt 11-30-2009 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanIsMyName
Next order of business: replace the crappy shock fork. It's always been way too hard, even with the preload turned all the way down. Plus it'll save me some weight. I'd like to put a rigid MTB fork on there but here's the problem. My current fork is about 18" crown to axle but I haven't yet found a rigid fork that's more than 16.X", besides the nashbar steel fork. Is an inch and a half really going to make a huge difference?

The fork you'll need to make this "right" will cost more than that cheap suspension fork was worth new.

Just to toss this out bluntly: after all the money you're gonna spend trying to make this bike into something it isn't, you'll find you could have plunked down for a brand new Redline Monocog 29er... maybe it's not too late?

Heck, I just found one on craigslist barely used for $340.

Either do it true pennytech (ie. Krylon/duct tape for the frame, replace the fork springs with wooden dowels, etc.), or just do it right and get the bike you actually want.

Just sayin'... people don't realize you can buy some pretty cool bikes on the cheap.

Oznerol 11-30-2009 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanIsMyName
NMy current fork is about 18" crown to axle but I haven't yet found a rigid fork that's more than 16.X", besides the nashbar steel fork. Is an inch and a half really going to make a huge difference?

Is that 18" A-C on your current fork with the fork in its topped-out position, or did you adjust for normal suspension sag?

pierce 11-30-2009 01:30 PM

for laughs, I tapemeasured an assortment of hte motley bikes we got lying around here. even my old 700c roadie has about 15-16" from axle to crown. ditto the tubular forks on my old 5-speed cruiser. the kids 26" junk suspension fork was about 17". I didn't pull out my 2003 stumpjumper to measure, but it has 100mm travel forks so is probably a little taller

RyanIsMyName 11-30-2009 01:49 PM

Thanks everyone for your input. Now I'll try and justify my reasoning. I wanted the suspension fork gone because 1) it was worthless. way too stiff to make a difference and only added theft appeal and weight as far as I could tell and 2) I thought I could pick up a rigid fork for like 20 bucks. Boy was I wrong about that. And 3) I don't really see the need for suspension on a road bike. Maybe I'll just strip the paint off the shock too and keep it.

I also realize I can buy a single speed commuter for less than $300. I remember seeing an article on urbanvelo about new models. But, I already had a bike with a frame I really like. I also like "projects" and figured I could make my old 4300 in to a good city bomber for less than $100. I also have an old Trek 930 (USA) in my basement that I'm stripping parts off too. Unfortuneately it has a stuck RockShox and not a rigid fork.

So far I'm well under budget.

http://i50.tinypic.com/32zqhjs.jpg

trailer Rails 11-30-2009 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoctorIt
The fork you'll need to make this "right" will cost more than that cheap suspension fork was worth new.

Just to toss this out bluntly: after all the money you're gonna spend trying to make this bike into something it isn't, you'll find you could have plunked down for a brand new Redline Monocog 29er... maybe it's not too late?

Heck, I just found one on craigslist barely used for $340.

Either do it true pennytech (ie. Krylon/duct tape for the frame, replace the fork springs with wooden dowels, etc.), or just do it right and get the bike you actually want.

Just sayin'... people don't realize you can buy some pretty cool bikes on the cheap.

I have seen this too many times and I used to try and talk people out of fixing up old junkers of putting a bunch of money into a bike to try and make it something it is not. I did not make many friends that way (and pissed a few customers off) so now I just let people do what they want. It seems to make them a lot happier.

RyanIsMyName 11-30-2009 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer Rails
I have seen this too many times and I used to try and talk people out of fixing up old junkers of putting a bunch of money into a bike to try and make it something it is not. I did not make many friends that way (and pissed a few customers off) so now I just let people do what they want. It seems to make them a lot happier.

Your eagerness to be condescending is making you overlook things. First of all, the bike wasn't a junker to begin with. It was in great condition; just not set up for the riding I want to do with it. Secondly, when is $100 a "bunch of money"? I know guys that pay that for a hub. Why should I spend $300 when I can have a good bike for $100?

I don't care what you think of my intentions. I just wanted to know some specifics on the mechanics, but I get a bunch of narcissists who want to tell me how wrong I'm doing something.

Mr Head 11-30-2009 05:21 PM

I did this last year, took a "junker" and built a semi-useful mountain bike.
Spent a fair amount of money and ended up with a semi-il-handling mountain bike.

What I started with:
http://mr-head.smugmug.com/Other/Sca...69_BsQJa-M.jpg

Where I ended up:
http://mr-head.smugmug.com/Other/200...05_FfRcp-L.jpg

About there. Things have changed a little since that last shot.

trailer Rails 12-01-2009 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanIsMyName
Your eagerness to be condescending is making you overlook things. First of all, the bike wasn't a junker to begin with. It was in great condition; just not set up for the riding I want to do with it. Secondly, when is $100 a "bunch of money"? I know guys that pay that for a hub. Why should I spend $300 when I can have a good bike for $100?

I don't care what you think of my intentions. I just wanted to know some specifics on the mechanics, but I get a bunch of narcissists who want to tell me how wrong I'm doing something.

Sorry to offend you, but yea, if you keep it under $100, that is great.


The fork is going to cost more than that. Plus the single speed cog hub kit ($20-60). You are going to need some type of chain tensioning device. You can use a old der but to do it correctly will run you $30-60. The stock middle ring will work but you will eventually want to get a single speed specific chainring ($20-40). I can't remember right now but those cranks may not have removable chainrings, so you might need a new crankset. Your shifters and brake levers are one piece, so you need new brake levers.

But sometimes it is not about cost, it just all fun tinkering in the garage. Have fun!


Edit, I just looked back and saw that the kit you bought includes an tensioner.

Flaco 12-01-2009 10:11 AM

Since we're all fixing up old junkers I have a question.

I'm trying to put compact drive on my paramount with a braze on front dérailleur hangar. I think I have run into a snag as the front derailleur wont position low enough for the smaller rings.

Anybody know if I can get a different derailleur or am I looking at modifying the frame to get it to work?

I'm mostly a crackpot mechanic.

Gummee! 12-01-2009 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flaco
Since we're all fixing up old junkers I have a question.

I'm trying to put compact drive on my paramount with a braze on front dérailleur hangar. I think I have run into a snag as the front derailleur wont position low enough for the smaller rings.

Anybody know if I can get a different derailleur or am I looking at modifying the frame to get it to work?

I'm mostly a crackpot mechanic.

How far do ya need to go down? If its just a bit, file out the bottom of the braze-on.

If its farther than that, will a clamp-on go on under the braze-on?

Failing that, get a bigger cassette and put the regular crankset back on. :nod Your short cage rear der can go up to about a 28t cassette. After that, you needta go to a med or long cage rear der. If yer running D/A 9sp, I'll trade ya a med cage rear for yer short cage.

M

Gummee! 12-01-2009 10:41 AM

@ Mr Head: Rockies aren't junk. Treks on the other hand... :puke1

@ Ryan: Yer looking for a suspension-corrected rigid fork. There's a few around. Keep yer eyes on ebay or start trolling yer LBS-es

M

RyanIsMyName 12-01-2009 12:30 PM

What's wrong with Trek's?? Their outsourcing of frame building? Are there any companies besides Cannondale that makes affordable USA-built frames? That old Trek 930 I have was made in the US.

Now that the paint is off the frame has a shiny look to it. Is there some other kind of coat on top of the aluminum that the stripper isn't dissolving? And how should I treat the frame?

Mr Head 12-01-2009 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!
@ Mr Head: Rockies aren't junk. Treks on the other hand... :puke1

@ Ryan: Yer looking for a suspension-corrected rigid fork. There's a few around. Keep yer eyes on ebay or start trolling yer LBS-es

M

Mine kinda was... Dead rear derailleur, (fell to pieces when I pulled the pivot.
I've replaced the following:
Seat
Bars
Stem
Forks, (original Manitau melted inside to short solid gunk, replaced with RockShox Tora, with too much travel. This created the chopper)...
Wheels, (rear wheel cover under the cassette was in shards)
Brakes
Brake levers
Shifters
Rear Derailleur
Tires
Chain
Rear Cogs
Crank, and Bottom Bracket
All Cables, and housings

What I've kept:
Frame
Seat Post
Pedals
Skewers for wheels and seat post
Front Derailleur

What I have made:
A bike that I can ride with modern gearing, but piss poor geometry for the fork travel, (may actually cut this thing down at some point, maybe about an inch)

Handling is very weird even with the front end cranked down so there is the minimum travel. This bike has never felt right since I swapped out the original Syncros fork when it was built up.


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:31 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014