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Gummee! 06-14-2010 10:53 AM

I *may* have a pair of older ITM bars you can have for the shipping. Lemme go look.

As a note: lots of my stuff is in storage in Tucson and I'm in Cheyenne, WY right now, so if I don't have it here, it'll be a while till I can get to it and you'd be better off buying something. :nod

Issues you may run into: the dia of the bars/stem that's on there now may not be the same as the road bars. Measure 1st!

M

EvilGenius 06-14-2010 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!
I *may* have a pair of older ITM bars you can have for the shipping. Lemme go look.

Awesome!

:clap


Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!
Issues you may run into: the dia of the bars/stem that's on there now may not be the same as the road bars. Measure 1st!

M

Yeah, that was my next step.

pierce 06-14-2010 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee!
Issues you may run into: the dia of the bars/stem that's on there now may not be the same as the road bars. Measure 1st!

M

On the pics of that Schwinn, it looks like it has the old style 'quill' stem on a threaded headset rather than a modern threadless/clamp kinda stem.

Evil, where the bars go onto the stem, is it clamped on with a 2-piece clamp that has 2 or 4 screws, or is it a single bolt compression kind of fitting? if the latter, its a pain to take bars on/off, you have to strip everything off the bars before you can remove them. with the two piece, you can just remove the clamp plate, and the bars come off.

in addition to the clamp diameter, there' also the bar diameter where the brakes, grips, gear shifts go.

oh, and if you've got 'grip-shifts', those won't work very well with drop bars, so you'll need new shifters. and probably new brake levers too, as drop bike bars use a different sort entirely than t-bars.

ducnut 06-14-2010 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
On the pics of that Schwinn, it looks like it has the old style 'quill' stem on a threaded headset rather than a modern threadless/clamp kinda stem.

Evil, where the bars go onto the stem, is it clamped on with a 2-piece clamp that has 2 or 4 screws, or is it a single bolt compression kind of fitting? if the latter, its a pain to take bars on/off, you have to strip everything off the bars before you can remove them. with the two piece, you can just remove the clamp plate, and the bars come off.

in addition to the clamp diameter, there' also the bar diameter where the brakes, grips, gear shifts go.

oh, and if you've got 'grip-shifts', those won't work very well with drop bars, so you'll need new shifters. and probably new brake levers too, as drop bike bars use a different sort entirely than t-bars.

^^^ Not only all that. But, road bars place your hands way forward of the headtube. So, stem length and hand positioning might become issues, too.

Dahveed 06-14-2010 12:05 PM

Evil, you know you want one, so just go get a new bike. It'll come with new handlebars.

Even if it was waaaay cheaper to build your own bars, I'd be fearful of a handlebar failure with some home-made bars. I can visualize the resulting wreck and its not pretty. Kind of a faceplant on the steering tube and then the ground.

EvilGenius 06-14-2010 01:19 PM

I would get a new bike, but money denies it.

S'why I went so cheap in the first place. Once I get a new job I'll start looking at a new bike.

The handle bars attach with the single screw/bolt that you loosen to line up and raise or lower the bars. And it's just the one sided clamp where the actual bars attach.

I measured the bars where they clamp in and it's 1" OD and where the brakes and shifter are it's 7/8" OD.

I don't think the extra reach forward would be a big issue.

The way it is right now where the handle bars attach it's a hair close and the backward arc of the bars brings the grips closer. It's fine for upright riding, but I think for the riding I do it'd be a little more comfortable if I could clean forward a little more.






Also, I just got my first flat.

I can't find the hole, but it went down pretty quick.

The original tires are 700/35C.

The rim is 1" OD wide and 13/16" ID wide.

I was thinking about maybe a 28C?

I know real road bikes go as low as 24-23mm but I still want some shock absorbtion due to some of the terrain I ride on.

Brand/type/size?

Bimble 06-14-2010 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilGenius
...Also, I just got my first flat.

I can't find the hole, but it went down pretty quick.

The original tires are 700/35C.

The rim is 1" OD wide and 13/16" ID wide.

I was thinking about maybe a 28C?

I know real road bikes go as low as 24-23mm but I still want some shock absorbtion due to some of the terrain I ride on.

Brand/type/size?

Why do you want to change the whole tire for a flat? Just change the tube.

And the rest of it, not to slight your bicycle, but it sounds like you are trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Ride the thing and enjoy it for what it is. You're going to nickel and dime yourself out of another bike.

:dunno

EvilGenius 06-14-2010 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimble
Why do you want to change the whole tire for a flat? Just change the tube.

And the rest of it, not to slight your bicycle, but it sounds like you are trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Ride the thing and enjoy it for what it is. You're going to nickel and dime yourself out of another bike.

:dunno

I suppose on the tube part, I just figured there might be an appreciable difference in rolling efficiency between 35mm and 28mm.

As for the bike, I'm pretty satisfied with it the way it is. I just think it'd be more comfortable over the distances I ride it if I had different bars. The current bars are fine for cruising but after about 15-20min I wish the grips were just a little bit further away and maybe straighter.

Push comes to shove, I may just make a straight bar.

pierce 06-14-2010 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimble
Why do you want to change the whole tire for a flat? Just change the tube.

at least try to patch it first. take the tire and tube off the rim. get some soapy water (few drops of dish detergent in a pint or quart of h2o). inflate the tube outside the tire, so its about half again bigger than normal, and brush the soapy water on it, look for tiny bubbles.

get a good tire patch kit, I like the ones in the little green plastic boxes with the black/red/white printing, can't remember the brand (googles...) ah, Rema TipTop.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

get the little TT01 Touring kit. those patches work great.

pierce 06-14-2010 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilGenius
I suppose on the tube part, I just figured there might be an appreciable difference in rolling efficiency between 35mm and 28mm.


bigger difference between tire styles/brands. heck, I'm running 26x1.95's on the street, those are about 45mm, but the ones I have now have very low rolling resistance compared with others I've used before.

minimize your rolling resistance by keeping the tires near their upper pressure limit.

EvilGenius 06-14-2010 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
bigger difference between tire styles/brands. heck, I'm running 26x1.95's on the street, those are about 45mm, but the ones I have now have very low rolling resistance compared with others I've used before.

minimize your rolling resistance by keeping the tires near their upper pressure limit.

Yeah, I figured that out a while back.

Bimble 06-14-2010 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilGenius
...As for the bike, I'm pretty satisfied with it the way it is. I just think it'd be more comfortable over the distances I ride it if I had different bars. The current bars are fine for cruising but after about 15-20min I wish the grips were just a little bit further away and maybe straighter.

Push comes to shove, I may just make a straight bar.

Do you have room on your bars to add something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Pu...8&sr=1-4-spell

Dahveed 06-14-2010 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimble
Do you have room on your bars to add something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Pu...8&sr=1-4-spell

That's what I was thinking. Bar ends give you a little longer reach and a different hand positions. They're great till you hook a branch with one end and go down. But you're mainly on the street (bike trail) so branches are not really an issue.

Plus one on the NOT fixing yours up. Save your coin and ride what you got. As you get more experience, you might change what you would like to ride. Get a spare tube to carry and fix the punctures when you get home. Nothing sucks like standing in knee high grass on a 100 degree day in the sun trying to find and then fix a puncture. ALWAYS try to find out what caused the flat to be sure it won't get your spare tube. If you were a hot chick, you could go ride without any emergency gear, but you're not, so get a pump and the spare tube. Little plastic tire "irons" are also very handy.

pierce 06-14-2010 02:27 PM

minus-1 on the bar ends. I hated those things when I tried them on my Stumpjumper FSR, they came off a couple weeks later. hands too far from brakes(and gears), arm and wrist angles all wrong, etc etc.

re: your sore wrists, if you're still having that problem, I'd recommend trying Oury grips, except you have those annoying grip-shifters, so they won't work either. :-/

I have these on my mountain bike -and- my cruiser...
http://www.t2bikes.com/images/grips.jpg

EvilGenius 06-14-2010 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimble
Do you have room on your bars to add something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Pu...8&sr=1-4-spell

If those are what I think they are, the only place I could put them is right next to the neck which would put them awfully close together.


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