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EvilGenius 06-14-2010 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
he's got bent comfort bars, not a straightish T bar. the bar ends are angled back, so I'd expect that would make the bar extenders angle out. fugly.

Yeah, like I said the bars I have now are fine for a leisurely ride, but trying to cover distance the angles get old. Which is why I was looking at either finding a road style bar that might fit, or just using a straight bar to make a T setup.

kojack 06-14-2010 05:30 PM

Im breaking out the old mtn bike too. finishing off the xtr grouppo on it, adding new wheels, tires, cables, seat, post and steering stem as well. might as well ride it! I may build a time trials bike for fucking around with too...damn two wheeled machines!

Gummee! 06-14-2010 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kojack
Im breaking out the old mtn bike too. finishing off the xtr grouppo on it, adding new wheels, tires, cables, seat, post and steering stem as well. might as well ride it! I may build a time trials bike for fucking around with too...damn two wheeled machines!

Two letters: X0

Mmmm 2x10 Works great for 26" wheels

M

edited to add: if its M900 stuff, lemme know. We may be able to work out a deal.

Mercury264 06-14-2010 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zodiac
fully torn down and rebuilt, every bearing, every screw, every thing.

From death row....

http://cdperry.smugmug.com/photos/890758573_dyMDV-L.jpg

to spanking tight hood lock up outside grocery getter bike....

http://cdperry.smugmug.com/photos/901285193_UsYrS-L.jpg

http://cdperry.smugmug.com/photos/901284935_K9iuJ-L.jpg

only new parts are tires, cables, chain, and rim tape.....

like bringing an old dog back to life...:D

Sweet :clap

What does it say on the crossbar there :ear

pierce 06-14-2010 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mercury264
Sweet :clap

What does it say on the crossbar there :ear

hahahahaa.

* NOT THE DROID YOU'RE LOOKING FOR

http://cdperry.smugmug.com/photos/901284935_K9iuJ-O.jpg

skibum69 06-14-2010 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dahveed
Good video! Enjoyed watching it. Nice editing job. Clever how you removed the front end of the bicycle for easy carrying! :lol3

yeah, turns it into a 2 person bike that way without even having to ride it:lol3

ducnut 06-14-2010 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilGenius
Also, I just got my first flat.

I can't find the hole, but it went down pretty quick.

The original tires are 700/35C.

The rim is 1" OD wide and 13/16" ID wide.

I was thinking about maybe a 28C?

I know real road bikes go as low as 24-23mm but I still want some shock absorbtion due to some of the terrain I ride on.

Brand/type/size?

I think body position is going to make a bigger difference than tire width. A 35mm to a 28mm is only 7mm. On a bike configured like yours, you probably won't feel much change. On an efficient bike, you probably would notice it, though. While you're getting a patch kit at your LBS, why not ask them about your options to mount a road bar. You're working in inches and all the higher end stuff is metric. I'm guessing somebody still makes chromed steel, road bars like my teenage ten-speed had. Then, you've got lever issues to tackle. Maybe look around yards or shops for junk ten-speeds for parts. Having someone at the LBS looking directly at it, with knowledge of bikes, is going to be much easier than fishing this forum. We all want to help with parts and advice, but, it'd be much easier to have someone standing there telling you exactly what you can do, right then.

Thinking out loud: There are several companies that make low rolling resistance tires in 28-35mm. However, the cost is over $100 for two. Again, the budget versus benefit is not in your favor.


Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
minimize your rolling resistance by keeping the tires near their upper pressure limit.

Here's an article on tire pressures.

I'll have to respectfully disagree with running tires at their pressure limit. At a velodrome, that's fine because you're on a glass-smooth surface. However, on pavement you'll actually slow down. I've tried higher pressures during TT events and lost time that I could feel and see on my computer, when I encountered bumps or rode on less than perfect surfaces. My GF has said the same thing during her tri events. Also, Maxxis has been fighting the max pressure myth with instrumented data, as they found the same result. The pressure chart in the article seems to be pretty close.

Zodiac 06-14-2010 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
hahahahaa.

* NOT THE DROID YOU'RE LOOKING FOR

http://cdperry.smugmug.com/photos/901284935_K9iuJ-O.jpg


I was hoping someone would get that....:evil

-for this old rig, it works so well - hopefully a cool bike thief will think it's cleaver enough not to poach it out of respect.... or something:lol3

pierce 06-14-2010 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zodiac
I was hoping someone would get that....:evil

-for this old rig, it works so well - hopefully a cool bike thief will think it's cleaver enough not to poach it out of respect.... or something:lol3

you're assuming they can read.

btw, is that really a 52:16 gear?!? :eek1

Zodiac 06-14-2010 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierce
you're assuming they can read.

btw, is that really a 52:16 gear?!? :eek1


i'm hardcore....








































:lol3



it was a bitch getting up my street today (long ass hill all the way to the Park)....


When i get a chance I'm gonna swap it for a 48 or 45

pierce 06-14-2010 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zodiac
i'm hardcore....

:lol3

it was a bitch getting up my street today (long ass hill all the way to the Park)....

When i get a chance I'm gonna swap it for a 48 or 45

hah. i'm way out of shape, so my fattire city-bike has 40:[13-15-17-20-24-29-34] gearing (170 cranks, 26x1.95 slicks at 50psi). the 40:15 combo is nice and cush for cruising on level bike paths, 40:13 for a tailwind. I've got a 44 chain ring for it, and if I toss some weight and tone up a bit, I'll probably throw it back on, but for now, that 40:34 can climb most anything without busting a gut.

Dahveed 06-14-2010 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilGenius
If those are what I think they are, the only place I could put them is right next to the neck which would put them awfully close together.

Bar ends, as the name implies, go at the end of your bars. They're specifically for mountain bikes, but you may be able to fit them to your bike.

Here's more info

Don't confuse bar ends with aero bars for road bikes. Those also camp on to the handle bars, but close to the stem. Here's a picture of some aero bars not attached to a bike.

http://www.performancebike.com/image...-CAR-ANGLE.jpg

Oh, and I like my bar ends on my mountain bike. I don't do trail riding, but I do like the different position they offer. Its nice to be able to move your hands around the bike while riding.

Dahveed 06-14-2010 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zodiac

I'm surprised to see quick release hubs on this bike. I thought the "city" thing to do was NOT to use quick release so if anyone wanted the wheels, they had to have some tools. I like the chain on the seat trick. Very nice.

Zodiac 06-15-2010 04:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dahveed
I'm surprised to see quick release hubs on this bike. I thought the "city" thing to do was NOT to use quick release so if anyone wanted the wheels, they had to have some tools. I like the chain on the seat trick. Very nice.


Yeah, my fixie has lug nuts (Phil Wood large tracks) instead, but this was an exercise in cheapest recovery possible, so left the skewers as they were. It doesn't matter since the Krypto chain I'm using to lock it up will cover those old hoops as well.

I figure if it does get swiped, the bike cost me around 60 bucks total, and was fun to rebuild.

ducnut 06-15-2010 06:33 AM

Guys, barends will not work on EvilGenius' bike. Yet, everybody keeps mentioning them.

http://agreensmudge.smugmug.com/Othe...46_QqjzQ-M.jpg


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