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rexbro 12-31-2008 03:11 PM

Garmin 2610 USB port repair
My 2610 stopped connecting to the pc the other day.
The mini usb connector on the back was feeling loose so I took the unit apart for a closer look.

-Removed single screw for mtg bracket to swing it out of the way
-removed CF card - one of the screws is behind it
-loosened 6 screws holding case together
-gently pried cases apart
-removed 2 screws for little circuit board holding the mini usb connector to case - port solder joint was broken
-used little razor blade to gently clean away the loose solder fragments and tweak the contacts for proper alignment.

More to come with some pics....

Sevoman 12-31-2008 03:37 PM

good stuff to know. I am still in the dark ages using my 2610, too!

Happy New Year

the venturer 01-01-2009 08:48 AM

This would go best with some pics uploaded.

rexbro 01-01-2009 10:52 AM

Remove the single screw from the mount and swing it out of the way then remove the CF card. Next loosen the 6 screws holding the case together. A #0 Phillips screwdriver works well for this.

Gently pry apart cases with small flat bladed screwdriver. Cases should come apart with just a slight amount of pressure. Be careful that the case seal does not get damaged. Remove the 2 screws holding the board to the back case. There are no wires attaching the board to the case.

Be careful not to bend the 6 little tabs on the board when handling it. They are the contacts that touch the main board when the case is assembled.

This is the broken solder connection that I found.

Figured I would try to fix it myself since I'm cheap and ride a KLR too. :deal

rexbro 01-01-2009 11:54 AM

Tools used for repair:
-#0 Phillips screwdriver - 9 screws total
-1/8" flat bladed screwdriver to pry case apart
-small Exacto knife to clean and adjust contacts on connector
-magnifying glass
-little microscope with 60-100x magnification for closer inspection.
-20/40 watt soldering iron with pointed tip.
-small file to sharpen iron tip
-small piece of solder
-three little c-clamps to hold the pieces together while soldering
-multimeter to check for continuity

Used the Exacto knife to gently scrape the loose solder fragments away from the board and connector tabs. I gently bent the tiny tabs out a bit to ensure that they would touch the matching solder pads on the board when re-soldered. Be very careful here as those little tabs are tiny and delicate.

I checked continuity on the board first so I could check for shorts after soldering. I must apologize because I failed to record this info.

I used 3 little clamps to hold the parts together for soldering. Be careful not to over-tighten clamp or the tabs on back of board will bend.

Sharpened the tip of the iron as pointy as I could with a fine file. Re-tinned the tip and wiped off excess solder. Using the 40W setting I tacked the parts together by quickly touching 3 points of the original solder. Then I finished soldered the body of the connector to the pads on the board. It's not pretty but it should be stronger than the original solder joint.

I checked for shorts and continuity and all was good so far but I still needed to solder the 5 tiny little tabs somehow - My iron is way to big for this.

I decided to re-assemble the unit to see if I was on the right track.
Unit connects perfectly to pc now!!!
Now I just have to find a tiny soldering iron to do the little tabs. A pair of magnifying goggles would help too.

the venturer 01-02-2009 06:38 AM

Good work.Thx for the upload.

Emoto 09-05-2012 07:09 PM

So, to clarify, the USB port solders on at the 4 little tabs in the center, and then in 3 places on the housing?

rexbro 09-06-2012 05:25 AM

Solder the 3 places on port first and tabs after if necessary. Mine worked without soldering tabs though. Those tabs are tiny and fragile.

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