Garmin 2610 USB port repair
My 2610 stopped connecting to the pc the other day.
The mini usb connector on the back was feeling loose so I took the unit apart for a closer look.
-Removed single screw for mtg bracket to swing it out of the way
-removed CF card - one of the screws is behind it
-loosened 6 screws holding case together
-gently pried cases apart
-removed 2 screws for little circuit board holding the mini usb connector to case - port solder joint was broken
-used little razor blade to gently clean away the loose solder fragments and tweak the contacts for proper alignment.
More to come with some pics....
good stuff to know. I am still in the dark ages using my 2610, too!
Happy New Year
This would go best with some pics uploaded.
Remove the single screw from the mount and swing it out of the way then remove the CF card. Next loosen the 6 screws holding the case together. A #0 Phillips screwdriver works well for this.
Gently pry apart cases with small flat bladed screwdriver. Cases should come apart with just a slight amount of pressure. Be careful that the case seal does not get damaged. Remove the 2 screws holding the board to the back case. There are no wires attaching the board to the case.
Be careful not to bend the 6 little tabs on the board when handling it. They are the contacts that touch the main board when the case is assembled.
This is the broken solder connection that I found.
Figured I would try to fix it myself since I'm cheap and ride a KLR too. :deal
Tools used for repair:
-#0 Phillips screwdriver - 9 screws total
-1/8" flat bladed screwdriver to pry case apart
-small Exacto knife to clean and adjust contacts on connector
-little microscope with 60-100x magnification for closer inspection.
-20/40 watt soldering iron with pointed tip.
-small file to sharpen iron tip
-small piece of solder
-three little c-clamps to hold the pieces together while soldering
-multimeter to check for continuity
Used the Exacto knife to gently scrape the loose solder fragments away from the board and connector tabs. I gently bent the tiny tabs out a bit to ensure that they would touch the matching solder pads on the board when re-soldered. Be very careful here as those little tabs are tiny and delicate.
I checked continuity on the board first so I could check for shorts after soldering. I must apologize because I failed to record this info.
I used 3 little clamps to hold the parts together for soldering. Be careful not to over-tighten clamp or the tabs on back of board will bend.
Sharpened the tip of the iron as pointy as I could with a fine file. Re-tinned the tip and wiped off excess solder. Using the 40W setting I tacked the parts together by quickly touching 3 points of the original solder. Then I finished soldered the body of the connector to the pads on the board. It's not pretty but it should be stronger than the original solder joint.
I checked for shorts and continuity and all was good so far but I still needed to solder the 5 tiny little tabs somehow - My iron is way to big for this.
I decided to re-assemble the unit to see if I was on the right track.
Unit connects perfectly to pc now!!!
Now I just have to find a tiny soldering iron to do the little tabs. A pair of magnifying goggles would help too.
Good work.Thx for the upload.
So, to clarify, the USB port solders on at the 4 little tabs in the center, and then in 3 places on the housing?
Solder the 3 places on port first and tabs after if necessary. Mine worked without soldering tabs though. Those tabs are tiny and fragile.
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