OZ DR650 build up
many seem to enjoy DR650 build ups so here's a new one :clap . It'll be hard to top many of the "inspiration machines" already on the forum but I'll post my work for kicks. Warning... it'll be a slow build up.
Stock 1997 DR650 - bought by the-side-of-the-road for AUD$2100.
Added Racetech front fork springs and an 8kg rear spring, dynojet carb kit and B&B bash plate. More details on these later, as i'll be dismantling and starting fresh.
1. Frame paint
2. KTM Marzochi front end
3. 18" rear wheel (lc4/8 ?)
4. black rims
5. Oversize tank
6. 520 Chain & sprockets (14cs 46?rear)
7. Fresh plastics (black or blue/white scheme)
8. FCR-MX carb
9. GSXR muffler
10. Twin headlamp mod
11. reduce weight
12. fastway pegs
Application: All terrain. In all honesty, I would prefer a new CRF or WR but since I have the DR and have the need for farkle, here goes.
I'm seeking advice; powdercoat or spray the frame? I've read various posts and remain undecided.
What is it with you guys and those damn DRs! :lol3
Plan sounds great, a bit of a deja-vu. Having done the same thing, let me share my experience first:
If a WR/CRF/EXC would work for the rides you are planning on doing (rough off road, no long distance stuff, no highway and not a lot of luggage) then I would seriously reconsider pimping out the DR. Mine has all those farkles and then some, and while it will easily hold it's own among similar 650 class bikes, it's still a heavy pig when the going gets tough.
Even doing all the work myself and getting some very good deals on used parts (my bike was only €700), I have a lot of money in it. That's cool and worth it IMO if you are looking for a great long distance adventure bike, but if a real enduro would suit your needs better, you can definitely find a used one for less than you will spend on the DR.
If you do stick with your idea, here are a few tips:
- LC8 rear wheel will not fit (hub too wide), stick with the LC4 and preferably a cush drive one.
- You will however need a 240mm rear brake disc off a LC8 or BMW F650 (1 cylinder model).
- If you get black rims, get your frame and swingarm done in black as well. Mine is powdercoated silver/gray and I'm probably going to redo the whole thing at some point. Or get black bodywork and stick with silver wheels, that looks great as well.
- From my experience powdercoating holds up better than paint, unless you go with a quality epoxy which probably costs more. I had my Cobra chassis done with Imron and it turned out great. Some of the parts I did with POR15 and it's tough as hell but will fade in UV light.
- Marzocchi front end from a KTM? :huh Is it possible that you mean the
conventional WP Extreme forks (50mm) that were used from 97-99 or so? They are a bit harder to find parts for, but once properly set up, work very well. They won't leak as quickly as USD forks either, so a good choice on a travel bike.
Hope this helps some.
I should have waited before starting the thread... sorry for the delay, went out and married the Mrs and had a kid!
Now back to the DR.
I bought a few accessories and thought i'd make a mock up of the finale'.
Lukas thanks for your reply. Your ultimate DR650 build up thread was what got me going in the first place! I blame U for the $ i'm spending on this project! :freaky
You're absolutely right, the DR650 holds its own but the going does eventually get tough - i've definately been there! The biggest PITA for me is its weight on fast and tight tracks but i'm planning to do some long adventure type rides where the benefits of the DR will outweigh the disadvantages. Plus, I felt that I needed to stock up on the boys toys before the baby was born, now that she's born, I cant get rid of the DR and buy a new CRF or WR :cry :1drink
LC4 cush hub - thanks Lukas, i'm still searching for one, or a place that will punch holes in an 18" excel or talon rim to fit the DR and supply spokes in Oz.
Powdercoating or painting? - I decided on the PC and had my mind set on a satin/ automotive black... but when I got to the powder coaters, the chopkeeper showed me a brochure with many other shades of black. 1/2 hour later I chose " millenium grey". I'll post the pics soon - the frame is still bubble wrapped.
1997 KTM 300 EGS (EXC) Marzocchi 50mm conventional forks - I parted out this KTM but kept the goodies for the DR :evil . I would certainly prefer the newer WP's but hey, it's like i got these for free. They are adjustable on compression and rebound and much thicker and taller than the DR's (i'll post the dimensions as I go). Hopefully the DR will be able to take some bigger hits with these bad girls.
Let's start here...
Stripped naked and blasted by blast off in Heidelberg Victoria. Frame then visually checked for fractures prior to powdercoat.
I put a link to this build & other DR builds on my links page
KTM / DR triple clamp
I posted in Mezo's build up thread that the bearing contact area using the DR bearing races/ cups with the KTM tapered bearing is not ideal. This is what the bearing specialist said. The taper angle is different comparing the two taper bearings. It would be great to know the angular difference but cant I find it on google!
As Lukas replied, he's got more than 10,000 km on his DR/ KTM hybrid setup. I also think that there is enough play in the rollers, and that they probably don't work hard enough to be a problem.
To overcome the contact angle issue and having to have to buy two sets of expensive bearings (and the urge to get it right)... I thought I'd press and swap the DR/ KTM stems from their respective bottom brackets. The diameters are difficult to measure whilst on the bracket (with the bottom bearing siezed on), but they look roughly the same, and I was pretty certain that they could interchange - plus Torben mentioned that he did this swap (just dunno on what bike models). If you were to do this, you'd probably need a 2mm thick spacer sleeve on the DR stem so that the KTM epper triples could clamp on.
Using a 15 tonne press, the fitter could not press out the KTM headstem :eek1 . Is there a trick to it? We haven't tried cooling the alluminium.
So... I think that i'll get some SS spacer sleeves over the 29mm KTM stem to fit the 30mm ID DR taper bearings.
More on Wed hopefully...
I'm in too! Standing on the sidelines! I like it when you okes mod these DR's! Wish i had an old dr to mod! Stuck touching up a new one! 2008. That Powder coating lasts forever! Did a rebuild on an old 83 tt600, not a scratch after 3 years of rock stomping! Looking forward to the finished product!
Dylandr - cheers mate, I hope the powder coating holds as well as you say; I dropped an old bearing race on the frame today and it chipped the pc :eek1 .
I felt like I owed it to Mezo's wall-o-fame to put in 45mins of farkin today.
Since I couldn't change-over headstems between the Suzuki and KTM, me 'ol man and I decided to get some SS sleeves machined to fit over the KTM headstem bearing contact area. This would allow the original DR taper bearings (NSK 4T-CR-0643 L) 30mm ID, to be fitted to the KTM headstem replacing the KTM TIMKEN L 49449 29mm ID bearings and to use the original Suzuki bearing races/ cups. This is what we came up with...
If I had my time again, before fitting the bottom sleeve, I would fit a 3mm spacer between the bottom clamp and sleeve. I should have listened to me Dad! This is because, as you'll see later, you'll need a spacer between the upper tripple clamp and the upper taper bearing. The bottom clamp design on the KTM differs to the Suzuki bottom clamp. The KATO bottom clamp bearing surface area is flat across the clamp. The Suzuki bottom clamp has an embosed area underneath the bottom bearing. This embosed area provides a large clearance between the bottom clamp and the frame head. With the bottom sleeve fitted as shown in the pic, once the bearing is in place, there is very little clearance (maybe 0.5mm or so) between the bottom clamp and frame. Hopefully this won't become an issue further down the track.
I may not have explained that too well, but if anyone is interested, I'll take some pics later to show you.
To fit the sleeves, the KTM headstem had to be machined. The KTM TIMKEN bearings have an ID of 29mm however the KTM headstem is shaped like an hourglass and is mainly a 28mm diameter. The surface area where the bearings sit is oversized to 29mm.
We figured that the SS sleeves should be at least 1mm thick, so the machinist machined 0.5mm from the KTM headstem diameter. Now the KTM headstem had a uniform 28mm diameter.
These are the dimensions of the sleeves
Two Stainless steal sleeves
ID = 28mm
OD = 30mm
length = 20mm top sleeve, 22mm bottom sleeve
small chamfered upper edge for the bearing to slide over the sleeve smoothly
To fit the new bearing without proper tools, I used the old KTM bearing, an alluminium sleeve and hammer combo to hit the new NSK bearing over the sleeve.
And the lower taper bearing fitted...
I used an air gun to clean the PC residue from the frame, then coated it with greese and G15 rust inhibitor in preparation for the bearing races/ cups.
Bottom clamp and stem in, upper bearing tapped in... feels like a pro fit - no free play, solid rotation :evil
For the 32mm (spanner size) head stem bolt to be able to tighten the bearings, a 3mm spacer is required between the upper bearing and the tripple clamp. I used two of these 2mm thick spacers (4mm is still ok)...
What do you think of the frame colour? Is anyone even reading this? :ear
And the finale! New Suzuki NSK bearings with races/ cups, KTM lower and top clamps with stem. Greased, fitted and feeling good :wink:
Note: prior to powder coating, the DR frame steering limit block was grinded off in order for the KATO bottom clamp to fit - just as LukAS did.
and i was going to ask if we needed that old steering limit block & you have answered the question, what about the old steering lock ? i was going to grind that off as well, you left yours on ?
Millenium gray looks bad ass! And the triples look great too. 0.5mm is pretty tight at the bottom there, not sure what trouble that could cause though. Keep the updates comin!
Too late now, but if you take the bearings and/or manufacturers part number to a bearing supply house, they can tell you the exact dimensions and angles to the bearings, and cross reference from there.
Mezo - Millenium grey, and yep steering limit block on the lower frame head needs to go, upper steering lock - just above the compliance plate (oh is that what that is)... shit i should have grinded that off too - I shoul dhave had a closer look before I painted it. As for the tripples... 1997 KTM 300 EGS tripples, and nah I wiped em down with some Kero:eek1 bit of WD and hand metal polish with a rag. Glad that they stand out but yours look pretty sweet too.
Distech - sweet man cheers. I think the low clearance won't be an issue. The bearings would have to collapse before the frame rubbed on the lower clamp. BUT, i'll monitor it. If I were to do it again, i'd fit the spacer between the lower clamp and bearing.
Kawidad - cheers mate, the bearing shop couldn't get those specs for me apparently. I also couldnt find them on the web. Unless you go custom, there are no bearings that match the KTM / DR fork conversion. The bearing wholesaler noticed immediately that the taper angle was not correct between the KTM taper and DR race. In disbelief, later I secured both the KTM and DR bearing on a flat surface, put a flat side ruler on a pivot, and eyeballed the angular difference between both bearings - there is a difference :cry .
Hows that DR coming along then :lurk
Any more pics ?
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