DR650 Engine / Transmission Rebuild
I recently bought a 2002 DR650SE with, what the PO called, a "noticeable ratcheting sound". Removing the clutch allowed me to see the issue. The output shaft bearing is toast. There were small pieces of it in the bottom of the cases. So far, I have not found any other signs of damage. The PO said he shut down the bike soon after hearing the noises, thankfully!
I have taken down the engine as far as I can without a rotor removal tool (which I ordered from ProCycle). I can't see if there are any issues with gears yet but I thought I'd come here and ask a few questions:
1. Since I am splitting the cases, should I just replace all the bearings and seals, or only what I need?
2. What do I use to clean the components with, like the clutch plates, to ensure I get rid of all the metallic soaked oil?
3. What the hell is Suzuki Bond and can I use Ultra Grey instead? Should I use something different for the cases than I do the valve cover?
4. Should I replace all the screws (like the ones holding the neutral safety switch) with stainless allen bolts? A few of them I will have to replace. Blue loctite?
5. How far should I take the rebuild since I have the entire motor apart? (i.e. lap the valves, upgrade gears, other mods?)
6. What should I know that I don't?
7. Where's the best place to buy parts?
I will post up some pics in a few and will continue to take them along the way for anyone interested in killing time looking at them! :)
#1-Sometimes metal debris from a part meltdown will damage some bearings, really inspect them closely... Also how many miles on the engine? If it is up there and you plan to keep the
bike for a while, I would replace the bearings + seals through a bearing supply outfit.
#2-Clutch plates can be cleaned with soap and water, rinsed, dried and then dropped into a bath of oil until ready to install.. I usually use varsol to clean up the cases and parts...
#3- The valve cover will need something different than the cases, use something that handles heat like 3M -1211 or similar on the the valve cover..
#4 That is purely optional, but sometimes stainless to aluminum reacts badly causing electrolosis... I never use loctite on case screws but some people do... I do use loctite inside on such things as the shift support mechanisms and anything that holds a moving working part in place...
#5 If the miles are up it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a valve seat service done professionally... This would include a 3 angle regrind + new stem seals, this service is usually pretty cheap to have done and renews the valve performance to a like new condition...
#6 Is that a trick question?What do you know?
#7 Some Suzuki Guys can answer that..
A few pics...
Something is missing here!
What could it be?
Here's what the piston looked like - seems like it was tuned well...
Pic with the motor out.
Should I be concerned with the "burnt" look of the components in the next 2 pics?
Here's what I got until the DR is back on the street:
Yes, how many miles???
I think I would just replace the bearing and any worn transmission parts, the top end of these motors lasts a long time.
I used regular ultra black permatex sealant on many motors, no leaks.
Replacing seals is likely a good idea if the bike has miles on it, allthough Japanese bikes tend to not leak much.
For clean up, I often use HOT water and soap, then dry, wd40, oil, and put in plastic zip bags.
Kerosene also works well for clean up.
Red or green locktite is going to hold any nut or bolt, inside the motor or out.
Green (stud and bearing mount) is just one step below welding, and its not coming apart without a fight!
Some bikes have heat treated parts which makes them look like something got hot.
DR650's do not tend to get hot...
The bike just has over 11K miles, so not too high. I do have a case splitter on order with ProCycle also. I figured with what I paid for the bike, I can afford to buy some appropriate tools and still be money ahead.
Once I get the cases open, I assume I won't find much more trouble but this is my first DR and first thumper that I have taken apart. It seems WAYYY too easy! :)
I'll get some more pics up once the tools get here from ProCycle. I'm not looking for a high performance bike...been there, got the t-shirt, I just want something uber reliable. If anything, I would modify the suspension and purchase hard cases before engine mods HOWEVER, I would like to know about things I'd be stupid to NOT replace...like this 3rd gear issue I've been reading about??
Is there anything that I wish I'd have done once I button up the cases and get the bike running again?
So far, I'm leaning towards just replacing what's needed and thoroughly checking the specs on everything else.
Yes, singles are so easy to work on!
I bought a salvage bike (suzuki) and in about an hour I have every part off the bike.
If I wanted to, I could have the entire motor apart in another hour.
It sure beats working on cars!
Low miles, but I WOULD look at the gears closely....
Do you really need a case puller?
You cant heat things up and pull it apart?
I don't know how many 'special' tools I never bought, hundreds?, they might make it easy and fast sometimes, but were not needed.
I'm sure I could work the edges of the case with a mallet and/or heat and get it to seperate BUT this IS a great excuse to collect tools, ya know! I just keep telling my wife that if I don't order the "special" tool, I can't get my bike together and it will just sit in the garage in pieces in her way! :D Win!
I'm sure others have already said this, but take everything apart and clean it all out. You'll find metal shavings everywhere. Replace all of the bearings in the cases.
Better source for bearings www.simplybearings.uk. You'll find what you need at much less than you'll pay for oem. If you want, you can usually match the OEM manufacturers or go for better bearings. I went for SKFs.
Not the one under the clutch but just to the left of that shaft is a breather cover (for what, I haven't figured out) and under that cover is the output shaft and the bearing.
I'm pretty sure this motor has never been apart so if they are knockoffs, they came that way from the factory.
I went to all the trouble of making this pull plate for splitting the cases of my 90 model:
And I didn't even have to use a spanner on it. Turning the bolt by hand was enough to get the cases split. Could have used a rubber hammer and screwdrivers to get them apart :D
Dayum! That thing looks HEAVY!
It's only 12mm plate, so not too heavy :D Saw pictures of the Suzuki 3 arm puller and figured if I used one of them, it would put too much side force on the bolts and break the threaded hole out of the case.
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<cringe> I really don't mean to offend anyone, but how do I put this delicately? DO NOT EVER SEPARATE A CASE LIKE THIS!!!!
Go spend $40 and get yourself a case splitting tool. Anyone taking a screwdriver to the edges of an aluminum or magnesium case should rightfully be flogged.
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