2013 WR450 dual sport build up
2013 Yamaha WR450F Dual Sport Build Thread<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
Well, here it goes. This is my first attempt at doing a build thread so please be patient!
I recently picked up a new 2013 Yamaha WR450F with the intent of converting it into a dual sport. This will be used primarily to link up sections of dirt and will hopefully be used to cover sections of the TAT in the future. :clap
Here is the bike in its maiden form:
Just an FYI, the 2012 and 2013 models are identical. Previous model years may require different changes than what I have done (such as modifying the stator).
Title/Plate: I am still working on getting the bike fully legal. Once I go through the whole process with the state I will post up on how it all worked out.
So, I have the bike. Time to smoke the ‘ole Visa and start ordering some parts.:deal Here is the pile of boxes I started with:
In the pile you will notice a Baja Designs dual sport kit, Yamaha competition ECU/short throttle stop, Cycra ProBend Hand Guards, and Yamaha GYTR Radiator braces. I chose the Baja Designs kit because I have used them in the past and was happy with their quality and they are fairly complete. The competition ECU is necessary to de-restrict the motorcycle as it comes neutered from the factory so it will comply with California Green Sticker rules. The hand guards are because I have grown accustomed to having all my digits :lol3. And, the radiator guards are cheap insurance against bent and leaking radiators (ask me how I know) :muutt.
Step 1: De-restrict the bike
There are four main things you need to do to de-restrict this motorcycle. First you install the Yamaha competition ECU (and it comes with the short throttle stop). Yamaha went this route because of the aforementioned CA Green Sticker regulations. Thankfully, the kit is only $99 and is available at your local dealer. It also allows the use of the GYTR tuner which allows you to tune yourself to a standstill (if you are like me) :huh or change many variables related to the fuel injection, timing, etc if you are a competent mechanic! Yamaha has a tech bulletin that outlines the de-restriction process for “closed course competition use only”. Just ask your local Yamaha dealer’s service department to give you a copy. Here is the kit (the throttle stop is under the ECU in the package and not visible):
The ECU is under the left number plate and is easily accessible after a couple of bolts.
The throttle stop was probably the biggest pain of this whole process. You can change it without removing the throttle body by loosening everything up and rotating the throttle body so you can get to the bottom of it. You will need a safety torx (the one with the dot in the middle) size S2T25h to get the original out. The allen heads on the intake boots are 4mm. I would suggest a little Loctite when you put the new one in. It’s really just a cover to keep water out and no longer acts as a stop.
Here is a close up of the throttle body:
The two throttle stops side by side:
Next step is to remove the snorkel from the airbox to allow slightly better breathing. Remove the seat and look to the rear of the battery. You will see the snorkel protruding about three inches from the top of the airbox. Remove the 3 phillips head screws holding the silver plate. This will allow the plate and snorkel to be removed. I was not concerned about additional water intrusion as the airbox inlet is already very high.
Here is the snorkel and retaining plate:
Top of the airbox with the snorkel removed:
Finally, remove the insert from the exhaust. First remove the end cap secured with 3mm allen heads. Then I drilled through the rivets(one on each side, 2 total) holding the insert in place with a 7/64 bit. BTW, these little buggers are pretty tough (or my bits are dull) Then I ground the heads off with a grinder. Pull the insert out with needle nose pliers.
That completes the de-restriction process. I will post the other modifications as time allows. Hopefully y’all find this useful!
Good thread so far. Ill keep watching the progress as its a bike that has been keeping my interest lately. Did u ride the bike at all stock to get a baseline. It's good to know about the ecu upgrade also. Is it hard to reg in your state.
Good luck and enjoy. R u winter locked for the next 4-5 months like I
Sent from the back woods of vt via patchy Internet
Live free and ride hard
Baja Designs kit install part 1
Time to put the Baja Designs kit on. As I mentioned above I chose the B.D. kit as I used one in the past on an older WR and found them to be of good quality and fairly complete. I chose their “no headlight” kit meaning I was going to use the stock headlight. I also ordered their folding mirrors and billet mounts that mount to the backside of the lever perches to free up bar space as I knew it would get crowded with extra switchgear and barkbuster mounts. I would have preferred to keep my stock taillight but their piece looks good and has a built in license plate light, so I rolled with it. I also upgraded to the LED turn signals which are much nicer pieces in my opinion. You will notice in the pictures of the kit that the stock signals (bulb style) are shown. That’s because they forgot to send me the LED ones :(:. A quick phone call straightened it out and I had them a few days later.:clap
The kit consists of three sub-harnesses (front, mid, and rear), hardware, taillight/plate holder, switchgear, ignition switch with 2 keys, and brake pressure switch (rear only). The ignition switch with keys is another reason I chose this kit. Otherwise, you could just turn on the main power, hit the starter, and go. I prefer my bike to still be there when I come back to it! :yikesI am not going to go through each step in detail as the instructions are pretty thorough. I will try to point out a few things that you may find helpful.
First, I fitted up the taillight/plate holder. FYI, for some reason these allen head bolts were standard instead of metric. But, they are stainless and look good. Before I drilled the holes I used a spring punch so the bit wouldn’t “walk” when I started drilling. The drill bit was ¼”.
This is the rear fender off the bike from the underside. At this point I was test fitting everything.
The keen eyed amongst you will notice that suddenly everything looks dusty in the next photos. That’s because the turn signal installation is the last thing I did as I was waiting for Baja Designs to ship me the correct signals (and I went riding with some other inmates in the interim). :ricky The directions say to do the signals at the same time you do the tail light which is what I would suggest. Otherwise, you have to keep taking the tail apart.
Here is the signal mounting hole. I used the backing nut as a template and used a 9/32 drill bit to make the hole. Each hole was 6.5cm from the top of the ridge in the signal mounting area. I used the bolts I had put through the fender as a site line to keep everything on the same plane. Make sure you keep your drill level when you drill the signal mounting holes otherwise they might droop or have an odd angle when you mount them.
Here is just the inner fender (top view) with the wires run. You won’t see this when it is bolted back on to the fender. I also drilled two 3/32 holes on each side so I could ziptie the wires in place. I pushed the ziptie through from the bottom, looped over the wires, and then pushed the ziptie back through the same hole. The head of the ziptie is on the bottom side and is too large to go through the hole.
Here is the bottom side. You can make out the ziptie “heads” where I secured the wires.
While you have the fender off drill two holes to pass the turn signal wires from the rear harness through. I used the plastic molding process marks as a reference. A little hard to see in this picture.
I got some neoprene grommets from Lowes to go in the holes in the hopes of preventing chaffing.
Looking up from underneath:
Here is the rear end all buttoned up with the LED signals.
I’ll keep posting as time allows. Thanks for looking!
What a bad ass bike this is gonna be!!! cant wait to see the rest of your progress. :clap
Subscribed, keep it up!
super nice bike!
i dunno how it is in N'Awlins, but i just got a $156 ticket for having an improperly displayed license plate here in fla. w/that kit. probably didn't help that i beat the speeding ticket that the pig gave me, so she tacked on the license plate thing... get a heat gun and bend it down is my advice.....
im looking to get a WR450 and make a SuMo. Sub'D.
Sorry, I've been slacking. :eek1 The bike is built. I just need to post up the rest! Thanks for watching!
I know I'm going out of order but I just hit a major snag. Went to send in the MSO in exchange for a street title. I was just going to send it through this way first in an effort to avoid the State Police inspection. I know of several folks who have done this and it has worked for them. So I went to my friendly title office (not DMV). I have dealt with these folks quite a bit over the past few years and they have always been helpful. Well, the nice lady told me that the State deleted their regulations regarding street titling off-road vehicles on September 28th of this year. This includes the inspection route. In other words, there is currently no way to legally title the bike for on road use in Louisiana. :waysad
I still have to think it over but I may end up having to title it in another state and bringing it in to Louisiana. I'll keep you posted. Any ideas?
What a drag! Sorry to hear about your issues with the DMV. Colorado where I live is a piece of cake when it comes to plating dirt bikes. We are still supposed to have OHV stickers (even with a plate). Seems the state enjoys the revenue generated by the license plates and stickers...
so this plate doesnt let you drive on the roads?
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