'86 Honda Xl250 Carburator remove
Guys, I'm trying to remove the (dual) carburator from my dirtbike. In order to do so, my clymer manual (p. 246) tells me to remove the bolts securing the the intake tube and insulator to the cylinder head. I am then supposed to be able to remove the intake tube and insulator from the engine and carburator assembly. Clymer here makes a note, that there is one bolt on the bottom in the center of the intake tubes, that is very difficult to remove.
Clymer is right. I can't remove it and although I can barely and with great difficulty get to the bolt, it is too tight to remove. It's stuck. I have applied boltloosening oil, but since the bolt is old, it seems that the Allen key (hex key/wrench) is just turning around in the allenscrew, thus destroying it more and more on the inside (and maybe even is destroyed totally by now). I can't seem to be able to get to it with another tool (pliers etc.).
Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do? I've googled and youtubed it, but alas without help.
Thanx a bunch and merry christmas and a happy new year.
Hi I have an 87 and have had my carbs on and off several times.
If the bolt is stuck real good you could try heating it up by touching a soldering iron to the end of the bolt. The only other option you have Is using a dremel tool with a small cut off wheel and cut the end off. The carb comes off easier when you do it all from the left side. . Loosen the top airbox mouting bolts. Unbolt the carb manifold from the head. Pull the manifold with the carbs and airbox back. Loosen the manifold to carb clamps and pull the carbs out of the manifold. Now you have room to seperate the carbs from the airbox and slide it them out. Hope this helps.
BTW, you wouldn't have a decent rear fender laying around you'd want to sell would you?
get a hammer & flat head screwdriver or chisel on the edge & try tapping the bolt anticlockwise bit by bit the bolt will be Munted afterwords just replace it with a new 1
Unbolt the air box and shift it rearward slightly. That will slightly reduce how tightly the carburettors are crammed into the intake boot, allowing you to slide the carbs out. Then you can access that bolt.
Be careful that the intake boot is brittle and easily broken. They're expensive to replace.
If you've got a set of allen keys with a 90* bend , use the smallest one as a pick to remove any hard packed dirt from the knackered bolt . It's surprising how much can get lodged in there.
When you think it's all cleared out , try again with the correct sized allen key to see if you can get a better grip ( hopefully by-passing the chewed up bit to get a good enough purchase to enable you to remove the bolt )
If that doesn't work , try a non-metric allen key , tap it in place ( if there's enough room to do so ) or force it in as best you can , apply pressure IN with one hand and tap down with a rubber mallet with the other
Cheers , Stu
It is also a 5mm allen socket cap bolt...you can try a 'size up' or 5.5mm, or the similar sized ASE (at least it was OEM a 5mm)
If ALL else fails,
shear off the bolt head, then remove the carb insulator(manifold)
you will then have the remains of the stud to remove, use vise grips(locking) to turn it..
after it starts to turn, you are gold!!
(try working it back and forth before attempting to fully remove, the corrosion that has locked it into the head will also snap the bolt flush...and THEN you are farkled!
If you get the top two out, you can rotate the assembly to get a better angle on it..
Someone already mentioned,
remove the airbox mounting screws, and slide the airbox backwards about 1 inch to 1.5 inches....leave the carb in the airbox snorkels, but remove the exhaust side of the carbs from the carb insulator..
If you can get to the bolt, cut a slot into it, and use a straightblade screwdriver to turn it...
Did you fix it yet?
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