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-   -   final drive 2001 1150gs (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=859372)

sherpaguy 01-29-2013 03:46 PM

final drive 2001 1150gs
 
Need some advice on when to change the differential oil and the procedure. It was done at 20000 kms and that was 2 years ago, now it's at 50000 kms. Recommended oil?:ear

piratetreasure 01-29-2013 06:59 PM

Change it! 30k is a long interval. Some of us anal guys like to change it every other engine oil change- mostly to inspect the condition and look for chunks on the drain plug magnet. Bottom right of this page, click on "Hall of Wisdom" and be ready to be schooled. Seriously good info down there. Open "Oilhead Maintenance" and check out page 23 for procedure.
As to what oil, I ain't touching that :lol3

turbojugend208 01-29-2013 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sherpaguy (Post 20604109)
Need some advice on when to change the differential oil and the procedure. It was done at 20000 kms and that was 2 years ago, now it's at 50000 kms. Recommended oil?:ear


every time you change the motor oil

sherpaguy 01-30-2013 09:00 AM

I am humbled but most appreciative. Heading to Florida Monday for a couple of weeks riding along the gulf states
thanks again
Quote:

Originally Posted by piratetreasure (Post 20605983)
Change it! 30k is a long interval. Some of us anal guys like to change it every other engine oil change- mostly to inspect the condition and look for chunks on the drain plug magnet. Bottom right of this page, click on "Hall of Wisdom" and be ready to be schooled. Seriously good info down there. Open "Oilhead Maintenance" and check out page 23 for procedure.
As to what oil, I ain't touching that :lol3


H96669 01-30-2013 04:14 PM

Go check with the GS guys on here, on some years the fill quantity was changed so may not correspond with your rider's manual. May not apply to you but worth checking on. I think you have a drain plug on yours unlike some later models and that can make oil changes trickier.....not having a proper drain plug.:huh

You should also do the wheel shakes, just in case the big bearing is going.Easier to find that way than crunching on the road. I shake that wheel everyday on the road. K-bike but same rear drive and same potential problems.:eek1

I also change mine often, just in case I see weird stuff on the magnet, that's also a sign of problems. Cheap prevention, that's only a cup of oil or so and a few minutes work. A gallon of Castrol GL5 80w90 goes a long way.:wink:

If ,and only if, you notice a problem, don't ride it like that. Can escalate real quick as in a few miles and can make a repair much costlier.:eek1

gsweave 01-31-2013 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sherpaguy (Post 20604109)
Need some advice on when to change the differential oil and the procedure. It was done at 20000 kms and that was 2 years ago, now it's at 50000 kms. Recommended oil?:ear



go to hall of wisdom, for detailed procedure it is simple.

Change out every 12,000 miles or once per riding season, regardless of miles.

Now, watch this get beat to hell on a public forum...:evil

I have used BMWGear Oil 75/140. I no longer recommend it anywhere but in the transmission.

I have since returned to BMW hypoid gear oil 80/90 GL-5 in the final drive. 100,000 miles

GL-5 seems to be required


best wishes on your 01/02 they were the best build years:deal

sherpaguy 01-31-2013 02:54 PM

When I bought the bike the original owner gave me a bottle of the 80/90 GL-5

so of course I used it!:clap

Now to figure out "wheel slap"
Quote:

Originally Posted by gsweave (Post 20620479)
go to hall of wisdom, for detailed procedure it is simple.

Change out every 12,000 miles or once per riding season, regardless of miles.

Now, watch this get beat to hell on a public forum...:evil

I have used BMWGear Oil 75/140. I no longer recommend it anywhere but in the transmission.

I have since returned to BMW hypoid gear oil 80/90 GL-5 in the final drive. 100,000 miles

GL-5 seems to be required


best wishes on your 01/02 they were the best build years:deal


def 01-31-2013 07:29 PM

The older Paralever design (without the hole in the middle) employs a tough final drive design with a bearing arrangement that must be assembled with the correct preload on the bearing set. If your final drive has gone 50,000 miles without issue, then, it will likely go another 50,000 miles with only routine oil changes.

At about 800 miles, I dropped all the lubricants in my then new 2001 GS and went synthetic everywhere. The engine has had Mobil1 15w-50 ever since 800 miles and the transmission and FD have had 75W-140 synthetic GL-5 with added moly from the same mileage.

I change my gearbox oils at about every two years regardless of miles. I change the DOT4 in the brakes and clutch at the same time.

I first used BMW's 75w-140 but that stuff was red and waaaaay too costly. Now I used the Wal-Mart house brand Super Tech 75w-140. It has a good reputation and is priced at less that $10.00/quart.

My FD is OE tight and the transmission shifts like it's an automatic.

If you're concerned, flush the transmission and FD with ATF to help flush out any junk. Also, ATF is high in detergents and anti foaming agents so don't be concerned about any residual left behind. The idea is to get all the unwanted junk out of the gearcases during the flush.

Next question might be, change hot or cold? I prefer cold for changing all lubricants including the engine.

Final question might be, where do I get moly and what does it do?

Go here if you care.

http://guarddogmoly.com/gd401.shtml

everycredit 01-31-2013 08:51 PM

SAE 90 or 75w90 is what BMW recommends/uses.

You could use paraffin if you wanted, but it's up to you as it's your bike.

def 02-01-2013 06:25 AM

I am aware of the recommended viscosity.

GL-5 is the required service rating.

I believe the viscosity is of less importance.

Moly added to both transmission and FD oils reduces friction dramatically. Your transmission will actually run cooler, shifting will be improved and friction surface wear diminished.

I like the 75w-140 synthetic because it has a more robust add package, better copper corrosion test results and doesn't foam. Also, it doesn't shear as quickly as non-synthetics.

But, that's me...use whatever you think is the best.

Welshman 02-02-2013 09:32 PM

I use a Fuchs 75/145 GLI-5 seems to work well:1drink

Welshman 02-02-2013 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by H96669 (Post 20613166)
Go check with the GS guys on here, on some years the fill quantity was changed so may not correspond with your rider's manual. May not apply to you but worth checking on. I think you have a drain plug on yours unlike some later models and that can make oil changes trickier.....not having a proper drain plug.:huh

You should also do the wheel shakes, just in case the big bearing is going.Easier to find that way than crunching on the road. I shake that wheel everyday on the road. K-bike but same rear drive and same potential problems.:eek1

I also change mine often, just in case I see weird stuff on the magnet, that's also a sign of problems. Cheap prevention, that's only a cup of oil or so and a few minutes work. A gallon of Castrol GL5 80w90 goes a long way.:wink:

If ,and only if, you notice a problem, don't ride it like that. Can escalate real quick as in a few miles and can make a repair much costlier.:eek1

What you refer to volume changes and plug/ no plug is for 1200,s he has an 1150:D


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