Rebuilding my VW Type One 1600cc motor
 

I'm going to rebuild my VW Air cooled Type 1 engine. Currently it has single port heads and is running with a 30-PICT carburetor. The vin on the motor starts with AH so it's dual relief 1972 case and should be a good to use if it all checks out at the machine shop. RIMCO is in my area and they know the VW motor better than about anyone and they are the machine shop I plan on using for parts inspection and I'm leaning towards them assembling the long block when I get the parts sourced and together.

Around $2500 is my budget... Used parts, New parts, keep the heads, use DP heads, single carb, dual carbs, turn key motor.....??

I'm entertaining thoughts and opinions. Not looking for HIGH horsepower, but strong, reliable and semi-good gas mileage. Old motor revved to 4k and I want a more usable power band.. at least rev to 5k with power would be fine.

Swing Axel, stock drum brakes and it's a BAJA BUG... low end torque and gas mileage work great when off road... Pleasure vehicle not a race vehicle.

Parts, thoughts, crass humor... what ya got?

http://f-d.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Cars/.../0/M/022-M.jpg

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http://f-d.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Cars/.../0/M/005-M.jpg

I'm pretty sure something about a "TDI" will surface soon enough...

Definitely go with DP heads. Theres lots of info out there on which ones are good and which are not. Hell there was a two part artical a couple years ago in Hot VW's that was a good read. Have you talked your plans/needs over with RIMCO? they may have some pretty good ideas.

This is probably a little tail happy though.

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:lurk

Im in, i love an old aircooled!

The red one is nice... A Factory convertible like mine...Not a CHOP.

I have spoke with RIMCO and they want me to tell them what I want.. So many choices most of which are dictated by budget...as with most things in life.

Most likely use the stock crank and rods, which means 1776, 1835 or 1915.. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage...

Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation..

This one is a 1776 and has plenty of power, I am doing a 1300cc bug right now.

I understand the rail is quite a bit lighter, but after the snow melts it is going to get driven to work from time to time....quite often I think.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...uggy/004-1.jpg

The sanba,is a good site for VW info.

That VW was in Laguna Beach a few years ago, so not too far from you. If on a budget, just a light going over would probably give you the most bang for the buck. I don't know anything about bugs though. Closest I ever came to owning one was when I bought a Corvair.:lol3 Try Bugformance.

http://bugformance.reachlocal.com/?s...r_id=182866790

Upgrade to 2.3L Type4, turbo, and never look back.. :D I use Adiran at Headflow Masters for my Type4 rebuild... He was reasonable.. I wanted bigger valves (42x36), and in hindsight, I should've ordered different cam..

Keeping the SP heads may be best for you. Especially if you can save or re purpose your funds in other areas of the engine. You were happy with them before? You will most likely be happier with them freshened up, and the rest of the motor upgraded.

Pulled the heads and cylinders off...

http://f-d.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Cars/.../0/L/015-L.jpg

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http://f-d.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Cars/.../0/L/004-L.jpg

at first i thought you were wierd for leaving it bolted up to the trans, then i realised you are using it for a motor stand

Always amazed they don't use head gaskets.

I would look at building a 85.5x76 stroker motor. No need to fly-cut case and heads but you will need to clearance the case. Single port heads will limit your rpm but on a stroker its all about grunt and gas milage. I will be doing this to my manx clone when the time comes.