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Old 01-09-2010, 01:09 PM   #56
toplessFC3Sman OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Oddometer: 68
Cool2

I picked up one of those about 3 weeks ago, and its come in very handy. great for those pesky philips-head screws holding the stator cover on.

Anyhow, time for a much-delayed update... funds have been running low so things have been going slowly. It has allowed me to get a bunch of planning done though. I left off on the alternator, so lets pick up there...



The rotor from the CBR F4i has the magnets along the outside, pointing inward, as opposed to the CB/CL350, which has the magnets in the center. To get this much bigger rotor to fit, I needed to machine off the mounting ears on the inside of the stator cover. Since I no longer had any way of attaching the cover or mount for the stator, i needed to drill and tap some new holes for that in what was left of the stator cover. I ended up choosing to do them on the old mounting surface in a circular pattern, using 12 evenly spaced 6-32 bolts, since half of these would not only nicely match up with the 6 previous (and thicker) mounting flanges, but i'd need more than 6 because they are not only significantly smaller than the old screws, but they'll need to react more torque from the higher output stator. You can see all the modifications to the stator cover in the picture below.



Now, on both bikes, the one-way clutch is right underneath the rotor. The CBR's is a bit bigger though. I first tried to machine out the flange/outer bearing surface from the CBR's to be able to press the CL's fully inside of it, but it was very hardened steel, so I had to turn down the CL's outer diameter (and lose the pressed-on retaining cover for all the pins/rollers etc) so that it would press inside. The finished product is seen in the next picture, although I still need to drill/tap the CL's existing holes so I can bolt on a retaining flange on the bottom side. You need to make sure that you keep the correct side of the CL's one-way clutch down so that it'll work in the correct direction (allowing the starter to spin the engine, not the other way around).



Moving on to the engine management side of things, I got started on the signaling for engine position. I'm replacing the ignition points with a toothed wheel and variable reluctance (VR) sensor, both from a spare crank angle sensor off of my 2nd generation RX-7. I plan on using just the one 24-tooth wheel, except grinding off one of the teeth (making it a 24-1 wheel), so that the gap will represent to the megasquirt the beginning of a new cycle. This way i'll only need one VR sensor and wheel, as opposed to the two that the CAS uses in the RX-7. The VR sensor will mount up inside the old points housing to trigger off of each of the teeth.





In addition, i've ordered and recieved two coil-driver kits for the megasquirt, a used CBR wiring harness with the injector, TPS, alternator and voltage regulator/rectifier plugs, as well as some relays, and I got a new set of tires from my family for christmas!

Still to do for this spring:
Finish trigger wheel machining and mounting
Order material for stator mounting; complete stator mount machining
Machine tapered spacer w/keyway for rotor mounting
Order cyl head temp sensor/connector from VW bus/porsche 914 ($20)
Order narrowband O2 sensor and exhaust bung; weld onto exhaust
Order megasquirt MS1/V3 kit and assemble/make wiring harness
Order in-line fuel pump (since the CBR pump is in-tank, and would require a lot of unnecessary fabrication to make work) and fuel filter
Order new chain and sprockets, clutch cable, handlebars, possibly control switches.
Strip frame, swing arm etc and re-paint, inspect brakes, bearings, shocks/springs etc.
Clean out old tank, re-seal

Longer-term:
Speedo/tach from a newer bike, signaled from the MS
HID projector headlight, LED turns and tail
Disk-brake front end swap
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