I am not sure there could have been a better sight for me that morning than shadows on the inside of the tent. That meant SUNSHINE outside.
I dragged a bike out, strung a line and did my best impersonation of a white trash campground as I could. The moisture didn't do my camera any favors either even though it was tucked away in my goretex jacket.
Now when I said everything got wet. I mean everything. Chris was left to his suit and only put things on as they dried. Lucky for us it was very warm and dry at 9 am and everything dried out very quickly. If you look on the log, every piece of paper we owned is spread out to dry. It was one wet night.
A german couple came by, likely thinking that there was maybe something to buy at the garage sale. they had been traveling for about two weeks, and although they have enjoyed themselves, they were disappointed because the weather had been so bad that they have not 'seen' much of the beauty because of the cloud cover. I counted my blessing at our good fortune as I let them know that it would be steller clear for them in the rockies now that they have talked to us.
Time to regroup and pack. I think he is helping...
Just before the Canadian Border there is a construction zone. As we wait for the pilot car I spy myself in the mirror. The first time in a while. Now I know why I have never had a beard before in my life.
We get to the Canadian Boarder Crossing which is about 20 miles south of the American Crossing, just at Beaver Creek. I asked the Boarder lady where was a good place to eat in town. She informed me, in a not too kind way, that if I went to the Visitor Center they would be glad to help me with that kind of information. It seemed that she would not stoop to be a lowly visitor center employee while she was protecting the country.
I packed my passport back into the zip lock bag, slipped it into my waistband, put my gloves on and started to roll away. Then I stopped, and looked back and her and asked, " so if you were me and you were looking for some really good food where would you go today". "Buckshot Betty's just down the road on your left" Thank you.
Betty's is back off the road and I would have never found it or stopped. there were three other bikers heading north. they had been putting on some miles and were tired. I sold them my bearspray as we needed the money now more than we would be needing that anymore.
OK guys and gals. You have to stop here for lunch. In my 50 years I have never tasted grilled sandwiches that good. Buckshot Bettys ding ding
Oh and the pie...
The three riders left. We warned them of the construction zone, and wished them luck. The told us the road south was in bad bad shape.
As we were leaving I asked a local about the elevation as we headed south. I could not remember if there was a pass to go through or not. they said no, but he road is crappy be careful. ah ok, we have ridden some pretty good stuff already and I think we will be ok.
We fueled up, and an RV'er chats us up. He is heading north. Back in the day he use to ride. He looks at our bikes and I can see his memory ticking over. He smiles, wishes us luck and says, oh by the way the road is really bad. We laugh, ok, thanks good luck.
So we head south and would you believe it. The road sucks. Holy Shizzle, this is the worst road I have ever been on. Heaves on heaves, huge cracks, pot holes, pot crevasses
If you hit these you would be gone. We were out of our saddle 10 x more than we were on any of the dirt. Chris had to stop to remove his sheepskin because it was getting in the way of the ups and downs. In most towns this road would be closed.
I wish somebody had at least warned us!
It is about 8 pm. We are coming up to Burwash landing. We stop.
Grab a soda and take in the site.
So do you want to camp here I ask. How far to Haines Junction. About 80 miles. Nah, lets keep going.
We head south and the cool evening light is on full. There is no traffic. We come to Destruction Bay and Kluane Lake. Now I was not expecting this beauty. The lake is glass smooth. The road winds gently, my god this is where I want them to spread my ashes. I said to myself 10x to stop and take a picture. I couldn't stop; the bikes purrred through and we sucked in the moment, uninterrupted.
We fuel up in Haines Junction. The weather has been beautiful all Day.
We decide to head to Skagway and not Haines. We use our deductive skills to eliminate all of the other roads that don't go to Skagway and then we head out.
We stop at Pine Lake Campground and find a nice place with lots of woods and few neighbors.
We meet a single mom and her 15 hear old from Whitehorse. Great folks. Share a beer and chat for a long while. I can hear her thoughts take her to other times as she tells us that they have been coming here for the last 17 years. She shares with us that one of her favorite campsites is in Dyea, just before Skagway. It is in the heart of Grizzly country, but beautiful. Hmmm, did I just sell my bearspray?
The lions know the routine and move themselves into place. We gather around the fire and enjoy yet another wonderful, wonderful night together.
Now I am not sure what was in those beers but I swear, if you step back from your computer, the coals look like Freddy Kruger in an army hat. ymmv