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Old 11-23-2010, 10:00 AM   #93
Brad Felmey
Beastly Adventurer
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Oddometer: 5,002
Originally Posted by toplessFC3Sman
I'll need to look into the latch, thanks for letting me know! This one requires pulling up on the tab to get the top to open, and the broken one that had been on there appeared to work the same way, and b/c of the amount of "hook" to the top piece, really requires a good shove to the top of the cap and yank on the tab to get it to open

Taller MX style bars would be good too; I had bought a set of stock bars that was supposed to be off a '72 CL350, but it had some metal sleeve welded on that half-overlapped with the clamps, so I couldn't use it. It also wasn't drilled for the wiring from the left handgrip, (but had an almost identical right grip/throttle/switch assembly to the CL) so maybe this was a piece from an SL or off-road derivative. I don't expect the tuning will be too difficult if it originally made due with a carburetor and inertial ignition advance; to start I could just load up a fake ignition table based off of the stock unit & very basic fueling. The biggest challenge will probably be just the process of datalogging, since I can't sit the computer on the passenger seat and adjust while driving.

That Caswell stuff looks like it might do the trick; I'm going to look into any places locally that could boil the tank too.
If you get the tank cleaned out (be it acid, boiling, electrolysis, whatever) give consideration to a good electroless nickel plating. A good job will see the tank last for 20+ years with no corrosion whatsoever. If you're going to the trouble of cleaning out the inside of the tank there's no reason to coat it with glop unless you're trying to seal leaks.
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