Originally Posted by Bill P.
I, too, am interested in this device, as: 1) I received the Aerostich catalog in today's mail, and; 2) I was thinking about cleaning up my accessory wiring as a Winter project.
However, I have at least one reservation regarding the PDM60 so far. This concerns circuit 1, the circuit that can be controlled by a user-supplied switch. If I understand the documentation correctly (thanks, John Smallberries, for posting that), that circuit is always hot if you enable it to be externally switched. This means, in what I see as a real-world typical application, that someone could come along, hit the switch to turn on your added driving lights on your parked bike, and walk away (or, you, yourself, could forget to turn them off). Right?
Now, you could always add a relay to, say, one of the other two 15-amp circuits, and a switch to the relay trigger, but this sort of defeats one of the major advantages of the electronics of this gizmo.
A couple of other comments. Unless I'm having a senior moment or two, I don't see any specs regarding the lengths of the included wires (the ones built into the connector). Be nice to know that; this would determine how many posi-lock connectors (or similar) you'd need to be working with, to connect all your added farkles.
Last, I'd also like to see some documentation regarding both the type of ground connectors provided and the min/max range of wire sizes they can accommodate. That is, are we talking about screw-downs on the wires, slip-over blade connectors, etc.?
Executive summary: I think it's an interesting concept, I think it has at least one flaw - the user-switchable circuit - and I'd like more details.
I believe your assessment of the externally-switched circuit is correct and a secondary relay tied to one of the other circuits would be needed to ensure nothing works without the ignition key. I found this solid state Hella relay: http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=435
It's a bit pricey, but would retain the solid-state nature of the project.
As I interpret the photo from Ida, all the connections to any devices (power or ground) are done with the bare wire ends from the connector leads. They include additional leads for direct grounds (shown in the photo) that snap into the unused ports in the connector body. The other bare wire end would need to be spliced into the ground of the device. I see lots of these needed for this project:
I plan to wire up my 1200GS with:
- Clearwater Kristas (with their own complex wiring harness)
- power for heated gear
- power for iPhone and/or Zumo
- power for my airbag jacket connection sensor (once the disc battery wears out)
This thing should do the trick. I just want to ensure I do a proper job of routing and attaching to proudly post photos here.