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Old 03-27-2011, 01:53 PM   #831
duck
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Seattle (Berkeley with rain)
Oddometer: 10,404
Quote:
Originally Posted by chasbo View Post
I was going to clean the injectors and replace the o-rings and the fuel lines seemed a bit rotted, fuel filter will def be replaced.

How do I store the tank now that it is empty?
I'd just leave it with the cap off and fuel level sender out in a dry place.

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Front brakes needed a rebuild when I originally put it away, so I will sort that along with new front and rear pads.
Have you looked at the old pads? No sense replacing them if they don't need to be.

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I need to lube the drive splines, but was also considering lubing the clutch splines as well, although I think I will need the alignment tool to put it back together if I go that far. I am a little concerned about the fact that the clutch slips in first if you give the bike to much throttle when starting out.
Cheap the weep hole at the bottom of the bellhousing. If there's motoro oil dripping from there then you've probably had your clutch nut O-ring dry out, leak and foul the clutch plate. If there isn't oil at the weep hole then the clutch plate is worn. Either way you're probably going to need a new clutch plate. The centering tool isn't really necessary. There's several methods to do it without one. 1) Leave the clutch nuts a little loose so there's just enough friction to hold the plate in place 2) use your eyeballs and fingers around the edges to get it reasonably centered 3) don't lube any splines yet 4) remove the pushrod from the transmission 5) put the transmission on and use that as your centering tool - use wiggling the transmission and having it in gear to rotate it until it "finds" the clutch plate splines 6) push the transmission all of the way on 7) pull the transmission STRAIGHT back so as not to disturb the position of thee clutch plate 8) tighten the six clutch bolts 9) try putting the transmission back on to verify that the clutch plate is aligned 10) lube the transmission input splines only, insert the pushrod and install the transmission

I've also heard of people using a pen and wrapping it in electrical tape to make a home-made centering tool.

Quote:
There is a small oil leak from under the water pump housing. I was going to sort that. I also noticed some oil residue under the rad cap. I had a dealer replace the water pump shaft a few years ago and wonder if they didn't do a good job. That shouldn't be too hard a job to replace the gaskets and o-rings in there and to flush the radiator out.
It's usually best to replace the whole pump assembly. Easy to do.

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My speedo cuts off when it gets too wet out. I read somewhere that there is a mod to fix it. I was going to do a bit of research and see about trying that.
There's a couple of speedo fix write-ups here:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml

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I have some cracked body work and am going to get the new pieces and have all the plastics redone to spruce the look up.
Depending upon the extent of the damage, cracked panels can be fixed from behind with a fiberglass kit from the auto parts store. Then have your painted fill and sand the outside.



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I was going to replace the fork seals and add stiffer springs up front with some new fluid. The rear shock is on its way to Works next week for a rebuild and a stiffer spring for two up riding as well.
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