Jose, our host since our first time in Angola was very persistent the day before.We had to do a separate trip to Namibe with the bikes. Obviously we were not in the mood to ride the 300km round trip to Namibe in two days. One thing that was a bit of a refresher on this suggestion were that we were going to be able spend some time at the famous Leba pass.
We left our luggage at the house and set off with Jose and his wife on his Varadero. There's quite a bike following in Lubango and they often have races in Lubango.
We set off with Jose in the lead first stop Leba pass. I can not say why I like Leba pass so much. Maybe it is because it goes back to army time, I don't know, maybe the mystery around it from that time. It's such a great feeling standing on the opposite side of the pass taking in the jaw drop beauty of the place.
Second time this Dakar get the pleasure of riding Leba
View from the top of Leba pass with the road meandering down to Namibe in the distance
At the bottom of Leba pass there's a row of small stall selling food stuff. The lot sell the same stuff, at the same price. Jose spoiled us with his favourite, chicken stomachs and hearts, a bit on the tough side but very tasty.
We left to meet up with Jose's friends in Namibe at the beach front. It's a happening spot with Portuguese elders sitting around sea facing restaurants drinking espresso and grappa the entire Sunday. We met a fisherman that's been in Namibe for 20 odd years and owns the only Harley in the town. It's well looked after bike and it's evident the man loves his Harley more than his kids.
The food at these cafe's are the best, fish and chips or local lobster.
Yes it's dead Harry!
The reason we came to Angola was for my wife to also experience some of the fun we had on this trip. Angola, it's not like they said
And here we were treated to the same hospitality we had from the guys at our previous trip.
That evening it was party time at Jose's place with all his friends and their band that got together to play for us. It went on till 3 that morning. The band played anything from Abba to Creedence Clearwater. These people know how to party properly. Their warm hearted friendship was unbelievable we were treated as if we were part of the family for years.
We meet again after 3 years
The next day it was back to Namibe to Jose's beach house. The road took us about 20km North of Namibe. We had to turn off well before the town onto a real shit road. It's a desert waste land and gave the idea of a small Fish river canyon. Unbelievably beautiful vistas.
The riding in the desert was mind blowing, well for me, Linda struggled a bit but took it well and kept her head high. It was difficult for her in the sand but this woman's heart is in the right place for riding. *
The tracks run all over the place, and then come together again in a sand track just to split off again into several directions.
Fooling around in the desert.
Linda had a bit of a hard time, but she came out head high!
Jose's beach house....eeerrmm, shack more that you can call a house.
Bias dos Pipas, Namibe is where the beach party will be. It’s a colourful small little community that resembles Hentie’s Bay (no shops though). Funny the water is hot but it is next to a desert, I always thought warm coastal water ensures a tropical landscape.
We spend the day with Jose and his family, they are a lively active bunch. Jose and his family left at about 8pm for Lubango but we stayed behind to enjoy a night on the beach. How many places can you still park your bike on the beach and sleep there without a worry in the world. This place is a paradise, in fact, worth dealing with some of the bureaucratic nonsense, this country offers maybe even more free living than South Africa.
You can trust on Angola to get some tough chicken and we were not disappointed the chicken were tough but tasty, the chips as always good.
We went on till late that night finishing off the Carlsberg's they left us. Sorting out Africa's problems is hard work.
The morning after!
We met up with Agusto in Namibe the next day, he is a friend of Jose and a 40year old fisherman who owns fishing boats with his dad and to our surprise rides a Harley he bought into Angola with him 20 years ago. He was waiting for 4 of his friends from Portugal. They shipped their bikes from Portugal to Mozambique and then rode all the way to Angola and will be shipping the bikes back to Portugal again. They were apparently inspired by our previous trip report written by Metaljockey (Erik) One of them has never ridden a bike and not to miss out on this epic expedition decided to try it on a quad.
Agusto invited us to his parents’ house for a local fish braai. This is the strangest darn thing, and maybe it’s because dual purpose riders are sort of cut from the same cloth. Yes, yes it’s a generalisation but to date all these bike riders we have come to meet have become friends of Elsebie and me. These guys felt like my friends from school I have seen 20 years ago, not as complete strangers that only met 30 mins ago.
Having lunch at Agusto's parents place.
Our new friends!
I love this and I know I will see them again in the near future even if we have to fly to Portugal or them to SA. This is what it is all about, meeting people making friends and seeing new places……….life is great!
Spoiling ourselves with a night in a banda on the beach.
Heavily protected missile site in Namibe
On the outskirts of Namibe and barely 1km out of town we saw these missiles pointing south towards SA, as per urban legend. The local story is some of the missiles are pointing towards the USA and others to SA but for some reason I doubt when they hit the button these missiles will go further than the town’s municipal border.
This is even more bizarre than the Custom procedures. I rode up to the gate where the officials sat and asked whether it is possible for me to take pictures of the awesome fire power………noa, NOA!! No,no, they said.