Murphy you bloody basted! PART1
They say when things go too well, Murphy will end it soon enough. Much did we know that when entering Zambia from Katimo Mulilo Namibia border post.
ZAMBIA BORDER POST
It's a small border post and things went quick on the Namibian side. However the Zambian side was a laugh a minute. Chaos and run down dirty buildings with hordes of people standing around. Everything paid we were out of pocket around 100USD for all the stupid taxes the Zambian charge. The one tax was payable in a old caravan wreck that had no seats and only a box and table for the man to write down the stuff.
Then if that was not bad enough, his stamp was warn down and the ink pad was dry, eventually I made him lick the stamp to get something visible on his tax paper.
FAWLTY TOWERS BACKPACKERS IS THE ONLY PLACE TO STAY IN LIVINGSTON.
We ended up at Faulty Towers backpackers in Livingston the small town close to the famous Victoria water falls, a vibrant hip happening spot. Across the road from Faulty Towers in the main road on the way to the falls is a restaurant The Spot.
The owners are a South African born woman and a Zambian woman, they make the best Piri-Piri chicken in Africa and at very reasonable prices. They will also make you any local dishes if arranged before the time. They really are a friendly bunch of people.
FOOD IS EVERYWHERE AND CHEAP
IMPORTANT THINGS FIRST
The idea was to head for Kariba Lake and take the dirt roads that run along the lake up to Siavonga. We knew they had plenty of rain but thought we would go that way and if stuck just turn around and take the tar road up to Lusaka. *None of the Livingston folk could give us any indication what the roads along this stretch were like.
Livingston is a best experienced for two or more days. It's a small happening town with friendly folke and a busy town centre. Famous name hard liquor cost on average 30% cheaper than is SA. Obviously we stock up on Johnny Walker Black and other expensive stuff we normally don't indulge in when in SA.
There's quite a few private game reserves around Livingston that offer camping for cheap.
When at the falls on the Zambia side you can ask the customs police at the bridge to walk over to the Zimbabwe side to get a look over the falls from that side.
FAMOUS VICOTRIA FALLS
Harold and Linda did not feel up to dirt at that stage and set off for Siavonga via the main road, we would meet up again in a day or two. *As we rounded a bend on our way to Kariba Lake near a small town called Sinazeze, Elsebie’s bike suddenly became a low rider. *The top shock bolt sheared off and the shock moved out of its bracket and, well ………………… the top part of the shock broke off dropping all the oil on the tarmac.
SHIT HAPPENS SHOCK TOP BOLT SHEARED OFF.
As we were standing there still trying to make plans how to get the bike to Lusaka or Livingstone an ex South African farmer pulled up next to us offering some help. He farms for Zambeef close to where we got stranded.
He immediately phoned his workshop manager, Servaas, to come and collect the bike and take it to their workshops. From there their farm compound was 12KM further located next to the lake. We could stay there and try figure out how to get the bike going again.
RELAXING NEXT TO KARIBA
The entire compound consisted of ex South Africans working for Zambeef, according to them, Zambia is South Africa 20 years ago with regards to ease of living. Everybody is safe and crime is virtually zero. A beautiful spot with very generous people.
That evening we were invited to a braai with the farmers, that turned into a party that lasted well into the early hours of the morning.
They say booze don't solve your problems, it sure as hell helped with the shit feeling I was sitting with. The entire night I was mulling it over how to get this bike out of there and the bloody time it is going to set us back with. The only thing I could do was to get the shock out the next morning and see if there's any thing I can do to get us out of the place.
WE LOVED EATING AT THESE FOOD STALLS, CHEAP AND TASTY
The biggest problem was the farm is so remote, it's nearly 400km back to Livingston and 450km to Lusaka. The previous day when we offloaded the bike the spring unhook and the bike stood as if everything was okay.
We decided to pack up greed the friendly farmers and try and ride the bike as is to Lusaka. As long as the spring work we will be fine. At this stage I still did not know what exactly broke.
Elsebie insisted on riding her own bike and like on a pogo stick unceremoniously hopped her way as we road on to Lusaka.
FIXING THE DAKAR'S SHOCK
I got hold of Kurt our friend in South Africa and he was able to get us a new (2nd hand) shock flown into Lusaka within the next few days. We ended up in Lusaka at Chachacha backpackers.
As we rode into the grounds Neill aka Jenson Button was sitting on the floor with a despondent look on his face motorcycle tube in one hand and a knife in the other contemplating cutting it up as a liner for his front tyre. Nice surprise to see him and the XT made it so far. Fuck it mate, lets drink beer and then I will help you sort it out.
CHRISTMAS CAMPING AT CHA CHA BACKPACKERS IN LUSAKA
There’s not much to be said about Lusaka it’s a big busy African city. The big South African companies are all represented there together with China taking over with big gusto.