the DR650 thread

Had to break a window to get back in the garage but luckily, with my headlamp on the cops and neighbors didn't get me. Pizza box is now securing my bikes on the window frame.
The bearing on the sprocket side seems to spin freely. I pulled the chain with the wheel off and it's clunky sounding when it's sitting on the swingarm but if I lift it up it spins clean. Could this just be the rubber on the swingarm? I'm going back out to look into the wheel more. Damn, this is turning into a real mess but it's worth it to find out what's causing the problem.

The bearing in the sprocket feels rough when I turn it. Could that be the culprit? Everything else feels fine but when I tighten the axle it gets progressively clunkier as it's torqued down.

Checked Bike Bandit and it looks like it's this bearing, B1 25X52X15 BEA. There's a rubber oil in front of it. Should I get that as well? Do I pry that off and just knock out the bearing? I do have the service manual so I'll check that for the proper procedure but honestly, I'm manual challenged and I'd rather have someone tell me how it's done, ok I'm lazy. Hell, I had to break into the garage to get to this point and tomorrow I have to go buy glass and fix the window. The less time I spend the better. I'd rather be riding...

Okay, I'm outside in my shop packing all the bearings. I find the needle bearings to be specifically difficult. I popped the seals off my new koyo's and the grease was decent, but I would feel better packing them myself knowing there is plenty, but not too little.

So here is a picture of my bearing I just packed with waterproof belray. I think this photo will help all of us with limited bearing packing to know if we are doing good enough. I think this picture has the right amount of grease but I need to know from you seasoned bearing packers... I packed it full using my palm, then wiped out excess with my finger down to the level of the bearing cage on both sides.

Is this ENOUGH? of too LITTLE??

Ride4321:
Do not ride your bike sounding like that, it's broken.

If you left out the spacer #8 in the link, your caliper will rub on the disk. DAMHIK I think you left out #19 which ties the left wheel bearing to the hub bearing. The more you tighten the axle, the worse it gets. :eek1 Luckily I 'got that feeling' before taking it out on a test ride, the axle nut just would not tighten properly. Went in the house for a pop, as I was walking back toward the bike, I saw the part behind my seat. I had set #19 behind me so it wouldn't get dirty.

http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuki-dr650se/o/m5873#sch505093

Just a few pages back Aerocycle posted this pic of his hub bearing, post #59364.

I'm not sure that the bearing would cause that rough of rotation of the wheel... You were in nuetral right? Hey stuff like that happens.

But seriously, if your sprocket bearing is rough at all, and has any play, just pull it and replace it. If you go through applied bearings, you can get a double sealed koyo for $12. its a cheap, reliable fix. But as you see in my post above I'm working on packing mine and putting it back together.

Hope you find what's causing your problem, that sounds pretty bad.

Thanks ADVS. That is the problem. The thing barely turns. I've got it torn apart and I'll just let the Suzuki dealer down the road replace the bearing. I guess if I'm going to subject this bike to salt and grime I need to learn this stuff but honestly, I'll bet that's the reason it's been a rough ride at slow speeds since I bought the bike. I really appreciate the help locating the problem.

I was in neutral and the #19 spacer was in since I had to pull it out when I went back to tear it all apart. That bearing is pretty tough to turn, I'm pretty sure that's the problem. If it's easy to replace I'd love to do it myself but I don't have the proper tool from looking at the manual and it might be money better spent letting the dealer replace it. If I'm wrong let me know and I'll give it a shot.
This thread is awesome, again, thanks for the help.

I was in neutral and the #19 spacer was in since I had to pull it out when I went back to tear it all apart. That bearing is pretty tough to turn, I'm pretty sure that's the problem. If it's easy to replace I'd love to do it myself but I don't have the proper tool from looking at the manual and it might be money better spent letting the dealer replace it. If I'm wrong let me know and I'll give it a shot.
This thread is awesome, again, thanks for the help.

You can do it. I'm a big guy when it comes to using the right tool for the right job, but lately finances hurt; So all you need to do it tap the bearing out, who cares what happens to the bearing because you are going to throw it away. Then to tap the new one in just find something the same size as the outer race of the bearing to tap on. It might be a socket, or a piece of PVC. Never tap in a bearing on the inner race.

Read back a few days and you may find something that helps. Also I'm sure some of the other guys on here have great idea's for you.

That sounds like a plan. I'm sure I have a socket that will do the trick. Is this a sealed bearing or do I have to pack it like Aerocycle posted? I'm guessing the bearing gets knocked out on the side opposite the rubber seal right and the rubber seal stays in place and doesn't have to be removed? If that's the case I'll give it a shot.

Ride:
Tell the dealer you want the old bearing back, we demand pics.
I think you'd be lucky to get 100 miles out of a bearing that you can feel when riding. You are very lucky, go buy me a lottery ticket.
Thanks for checking on #19, inquiring minds want to know.
Changing that bearing is pretty easy, you can do it on the carpet watching tv. No I'm not kidding (well, except that I'm single).
Yes, you can just tap it out. Crap, I can't keep up with this thread.



Edit: Oops, wrong pic. More better: If you guys would slow down, I wouldn't make mistakes.

That is a little much IMHO, but should be ok.Remember that bearing grease is thick and will thin out a little with heat from the friction of the bearing rolling.To much grease will cause drag which in turn causes heat to build up.Over heating is just one thing that can kill a bearing.The main one is wear,duh.You need just enough grease to help the bearing roll smooth and not so much as to cause the balls or rollers to skid through the grease.Skidding balls and rollers causes flat spots on them which causes heat and accelerated wear problems.There is no real correct amount to use,IMHO.I just make sure there is some around each ball or roller, and call it good.I have yet to suffer from a bearing failure on any of my motorcycles.I have caught some sloppy ones and replaced them.Regular maintenance and tear down is key to catching parts failures before the part fails catostrophicly.

Hell, I'm single too, I'll knock that sucker out on the kitchen table if I feel like it. I'll post a pic of it after it's out but I'm not sure it'll look any worse than Aerocycles did, at least I hope not. Man, I've ridden the piss out of this bike with it like that. When I've worked on the bike I just assumed it was some weird thumper thing and didn't really give it much thought. I'm really glad something awful didn't happen that could have landed me in intensive care. I hate ICU.

You're ticket is in the mail...right. But thanks for heading me in the right direction. If I bought you a ticket it would certainly lose so no loss there buddy.

Definitely no more, too much can cause issues like overheating and leaking of grease past the seals. I'd prefer a little less.

I probably mentioned it earlier, but I like something like a thick aerosol grease like some chain lubes, eg Shell. It penetrates and does a great job in my experience. Leave the seal out while the thinner evaporates, and maybe hit it a second time. Hard to overlube this way. I wouldn't use this on the DR chain though, too tacky and attracts grime.

Steve

I like it, but I don't have any seasoning, just salty. 205'd yet again.

If you get your bearing at the dealer, it will be sealed on one side. Just switch your old seal to the open side of the new bearing. If you get a bearing at a bearing place, just ask for a double seal in which case it will already be packed well enough. Although I like the way Aerocycle 'fingered' a little extra in his.

Like this:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17769542&postcount=81

So is this the direction to knock it out leaving the rubber seal in place? I have a REAL hammer but my kids hammer is light and I don't want to go ballistic on this thing.

NO! From the other side, glad you asked.

And don't hit your socket with a steel hammer, put something in between. I usually use my thumb.

Done yet?

So the rubber seal has to come out first? Or will that just knock out when the bearing pushes out? Thanks for stopping me before I did something really stupid.

The seal will slip right out with the bearing. Glad you asked first.