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Old 02-17-2012, 08:25 PM   #84
Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 161
Originally Posted by _cy_ View Post
@ Antigravity ... thanks for dropping by ... was a pleasure speaking with you yesterday.

discharge tests using load testers are a good indicator of performance, but have limited value in the real world. what really counts is will this ultra light/powerful battery start my bike up when it's winter outside?
Ok here is my rant on batteries from my experiance as a manufacture...sorry its long, but I have my conclusions that I have come to.

Cy you are correct real world testing is the bottom line... but it a very broad spectrum to test the real world... there are difference in individual bikes that are pretty major also... We tested about 36 bikes from Ducati 1198s to 1985 Honda Nighthawks to 145 Cubic inch High Compression Kits on V-Twin customs... But back to my point is that some bike are wired better, some bikes have a better ratio in their starter reduction gearing, some ECUs need a higher voltage at start... So real world is very broad, but there is a bottom line and its just POWER... get more and be better off... of course you have to weigh this against cost and need.

Lately we have been doing some real world testing that is proving to be the best true test of battery performance that we have found. We have been testing a lot with the big Cubic Inch V-Twins from 103 to 145s (2345cc) motors and have found nothing does a better job of seeing what the batteries will do...These are absolutely the hardest motors to turn over by far... some have compression releases other don't, not to mention the variables on the build quality and size of the wire they use and if the motor is built tight or loose...if they use the 2.4 Kw starter or the 1.8 Kw starter can change the start ability dramatically...

Through the last year I have tested and re-tested so much that it has changed my outlook on batteries...
I no longer look at Amp Hours as that much of a factor at all... Power is absolutely the king and most important factor bar anything...Starting your bike is the number one thing that must happen especially if your in the middle of nowhere....Sufficient amp hours will follow the Power if you get the proper size battery... My argument for this is just from so much testing and experiance and understanding the principals ignition systems of vehicles...

You question above is "But will this thing start my battery in the Winter?" There is an important fact that I have not seen (or missed) being addressed...... and that is the Power of the battery... you mention a lot about Amp Hours but you do not mention the Cranking/Pulse discharge ability...Bottom line is power is what starts the bike....not the Amp hours, though you can argue they play a small role under certain circumstances. But POWER will push you through cold. Power will push you through a hard starting bike. Pwer will push you though the bike flooding. Power is the key and sufficient Amp hours will follow the power for most all applications....

For example if your Shorai LF 18 has 270 cranking amps, and at say 0 degrees it only has about 70% of its power... then your screwed for a good start. Now say you have a battery like the Antigravity YTX-16 which has 480 Cranking Amps and at 0 degrees it has only 70% of its power.... Well even 70 percent of the 480 cranking amps is going to have way more cranking power than 270 Cranking amps having 70% power......But say you are a world travelling Adventure guy (nuts) and you ask again "Will the battery start my bike in the cold!" And I would say to you....Well how about 600 Cranking amps in the YTX12 case format? And I will tell you that 600 cranking amps is like a car battery power in an OEM Yuasa Case size of the YTX12..... 600 cranking amps for a 1200cc bike motor will pretty much laugh at 0 degrees because it has over-head in massive power so that even if it has 60% of its power available it would be massively powerful....

So when you are talking about starting a bike and are wonder what you want for your around the world trip the bottom line is Higher power... Why? Higher power allows for less of a voltage drop on the start pulse which keeps the spark fatter... it keeps the voltage higher so the ECU can function properly and better .. it spins the motor faster which helps in getting past bad fueling when the bikes Fuel Injection system doesn't know how to handle the dense air in freezing helps if your carburated also with the faster spin ... higher power mean longer spins times without over heating the battery if your bike is flooded.... high power can power through a waterlogged bike until it starts...

So if your world traveling like you will be you should look at two thing in my honest opinion... Big freaking power.... or two smaller batteries providing a redundant system... If I was traveling I would use two smaller 12-cells packed in there and leave one disconnected as a back-up... I realize none of my info added to you incredible data gathering but when the rubber hits the dirt and road any rider who is really concerned about the ability to get the bike started in the cold should get the biggest battery in a size that will fit that they can....We can put 600 Cranking Amps into a Yuasa YTX12 Case format and NO company can do that or comes close (until they copy us). That is what Antigravity does. Direct OEM fit batteries with massive power or Ultra Compact models with massive power.



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