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Old 03-13-2012, 04:24 PM   #86
AlpineGuerrilla OP
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Basel, Switzerland
Oddometer: 399
Originally Posted by Chupas View Post
Awesome RR. I really enjoy reading your comments and thoughts on traveling. And I love your pictures of water.
I hope you change your mind about the route through Denmark on your way back. We would love to host you here in Copenhagen.


Alaska to Argentina - N69S54A
Somehow missed your post the last time.
It might be a bit obvious, but I love water and what it does to a landscape (or carve out the whole landscape for that matter). And there are a lot more pictures of water coming up.
Appreciate your offer for staying with you, but I'm already at home, writing up last summers ride. I'm sure we would have had a lot to talk about. Maybe you are around Switzerland sometime?

Originally Posted by dave6253 View Post
I love the video. Very well done. A lot of work was put into this. Thanks!
Originally Posted by zandesiro View Post
This is the best video i have ever seen on a ride report......I enjoy every second...!Respect!
Thank you, it has been a lot of fun setting up the camera and reviewing hours of footage and relive the ride when I was home. Non-riding friends wondered why I would bother to put that effort into it.

Originally Posted by wildy View Post
Excellant ride report. Would have loved to stay in one of those huts but the cheapest I was offered was £40 pounds so I wild camped instead. Keep up the report. Buy a Statoil cup which lets you get free coffee for the rest of the year.
40 Pounds are probably average for a hut, only 'relatively' cheap. I too camped most of time, but after days of rain and cold, I'd pay for a bit for the luxury of warmth. But what's a Statoil cup? Google comes up with the handball world cup sponsored by Statoil.

Originally Posted by hummel View Post
It is also good to see an alternative bike being used rather than the usual gs or dual sport.
I didn't think it's that much of an issue what bike to take. I love my SV and feel very comfortable riding it, both in terms of ergonomics and roadworthiness. I didn't know if I really am into motorcycle travel before I went on this trip (how could I doubt that?), so buying a dual sport or the like for one trip seemed a bit over the top.

Originally Posted by *wookie* View Post
Excellent ride report!

I'm planning a solo trip up to Nordkapp from London in May and I'm debating whether to get the ferry from Estonia to Finland and straight up, or head over into Russia and go via Murmansk. I think you've convinced me to consider the Murmansk route a bit more (has been 'Plan B' for a while).

Your reports so far have answered a bunch of questions I had, but I'm wondering - what sort of fuel range do you think necessary for this sort of trip? My KTM 950SE craps out after about 120 miles and I'm looking into options for carrying more fuel but don't want to overdo it…?

Although Norway is way more impressive with all it's mountains and landscape, my major highlight of the trip was definitely the russian leg. I would highly recommend taking this detour. Even more on a dual sport bike - you don't have to take the boring St. Petersburg - Murmansk "Autobahn" as I did. If I would go there again on a proper offroad bike, two things would be on the top of my list: Kuzomen desert on the Kola peninsula,the northernmost desert of the world and a trip to Teriberka at the Barents Sea. I met a few people on adventure bikes talking about a motorcycle meeting that is held in Teriberka in the first week of July.
And of course, learn a few russian phrases, it pays off.

Fuel coverage was my main concern when planning this trip, having no idea what to expect. I found this site listing all gas station, but not only directly along M18. If I remember correctly, the farthest stretch without any gas station (or other facility for that matter) along M18 was around 220km after Medvezhyegorsk (Медвежьегорск). No idea though what is the case away from the M18.

One last suggestion: if you want to eat good and cheap Shashlik in Monchegorsk, here's a good place:

There is an amazing ride report on here of some guys riding almost non-existent dirt tracks around Murmansk and Kola peninsula. Can't seem to find it right now, but it's worth a read.
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