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Old 05-13-2012, 04:39 PM   #6561
leafman60
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Oddometer: 1,508
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbfj40 View Post
Regarding the HID delay wiring and such:
The vacuum operated switch may not be the best choice for the lighting system. Although it would provide a delay as desired, it could/would also be possible for you to lose your headlight in a "low" vacuum condition like low gear wide open throttle or a stalled engine condition. You wouldn't want even a slight possibility of that happening during rush hour in a dark intersection. And for the electronic time delay versions, keep the delay down to just a few seconds, If your light goes out for whatever reason you don't want to be going 60 mph on some dark windy back road and have to wait for 4, 6, or 10 seconds for your light to come back on.
My first try was a 4 second on-delay relay. But that left me open for 4 seconds of darkness if I had a "flame out" for any reason. My latest solution was to use a standard relay that I wired with an electric "latching" circuit. I'll look around for my wiring notes and post-em for you-all. Basically, you have two "on" switches that must be on for the bike to run, the key needs to be "on" and the kill switch needs to be "on". My HID relay is triggered via the kill switch circuit and powered by the key, using the Key's wires that don't "power off" during engine cranking. The "key" power is just for relay triggering, not HID powering, that's wired directly from the battery. I start with the kill switch in the "kill" position and turn on the key. The display then will do it's diagnostic sweep. Then, when I toggle the kill switch to "run", the relay is energized and the light will fire. And at the same time, I have the relay wired to "latch" it's self in the "on" position as long as the key is not turned off. It stays "latched-on" even if the kill switch is pressed or if the engine dies. and then press the starter to start the engine. The light will not go out unless the key is turned off. If you forget (ooopsy) to have the kill switch pressed when you turn on the key then the lamp will fire with out delay and you may "code out" your display as before, so you have to get in the habit of "kill switch off" when turning the key on for this to work. (I'm not untrainable :-) The Light will be on during engine cranking and without the direct wiring of the relays "switched" power coming directly from the battery your lights could be "starved" for power during engine start. I added a Capacitor in line here to help eliminate that possibility, so far zero flame outs on engine start. The reason I went this way vs. my On-Delay setup was that one time my HID "flamed out" on me at speed in the dark and I had to reach across and "key-off, key-on", then wait 4 more seconds before it "re-lit" That was one time too many for me. Now once the headlight is on, it stays on regardless of the kill switch, engine running, stalling etc until you turn off the key. Much more better. This "current" setup is working well but I still would have to cycle the key to "re-fire" the light if it dropped out for any reason, so I'm thinking of adding a "master" reset button on the handle bars that will restrike the lights with just a touch. (good for any HID set up on a bike) I'm just waiting to get on over to CycleGear and pick up a motocross style kill switch and wire it in as my master reset.
Any of that make sense to my fellow G650X riders....
mike

Lol, I agree. You wire the relay to the HID to be latching so that once the VOES triggers it, the relay stays shut until you kill the ignition key even if vacuum drops.
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