Originally Posted by DRONE
I think for this year I'm going to concentrate on the two bikes I got in the garage.
I wanted to weigh in on the HID thing. I got no argument with Leafman's post. But . . . the guys in GSPOT discovered quite a while ago that physical proximity of the ignitors to the RID makes a huge difference. Locate the ignitors far away from the RID and the RID problems go away.
Some of you guys might remember that I installed HID's on my XCountry back in 2009. I had no problems with the bike's electronics at all. But, and here's the big but, my old style non-digital ballasts (ignitors consolidated in the ballasts) were located below and behind the headlight. see pic--
Also, my HID's were controlled by an on/off switch on the left grip. Which means that sometimes they were off when I fired up the bike, but sometimes they were on.
My point being that if you put your ballasts and ignitors down low, or under the seat, or in the battery box (next to your LiFePo battery) I'll bet you have no problem.
I tried that too. Currently, my ignitor is down close to the airbox and I can still draw fault codes without making the precautions mentioned.
If you cut and splice extra wire to distance to ignitor too much, you can have problems with it striking the bulb on. In other words, these cant be too far away in order to work properly (same with sodium street lamps-smile).
Anyway, whatever works for you guys is great. I'm just giving you my "fix" after a great amount of anguish.
Oh, by the way, one issue to note - I use the H-4 HID bulb with the electromagnetic solenoid to shuttle the bulb element in and out to effect hi/lo beams.
On some bulbs, the coil in the solenoid can draw a helluva lot of current. Do a test with your volt meter. The bulbs stays on and does not change anything. When you hit hi beam, the solenoid pulls in. Do that and see if you have a huge voltage drop. If you do, the coil in the bulb shuttle solenoid is not working right.