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Old 08-12-2012, 07:09 PM   #32
beemerphile
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Danielsville, GA USA
Oddometer: 1,669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maytag Repairman View Post
I am slightly off the dimple by maybe 2-3 mm. Hardly enough to make a big difference. I loosened the handlebar clamps and dropped the handlebars several degrees until I cleared the windshield by a reasonable gap.
The dimples represent the factory standard setting and they may or may not be right for you. They were correct for me. I mentioned it, because I imagine that was the baseline that the Givi engineers used in determining the shape of the windshield in order to get the best wind protection. It looked to me like they followed it closely. Windshield aside, in setting the bars and levers for individual fit, there is no "correct" setting that applies for everyone, but there are some ergonomic standard practices that usually work for best comfort. In setting the angle of the brake and clutch levers, try this...

In your normal sitting position on the motorcycle, place your palms on the handlegrips with your fingers extended in a straight line (parallel) with your forearm. Your fingers should be lightly touching the top of the levers. If the levers are below your fingers, it will require palmal wrist flexion to reach them. If the levers are high enough that they prevent you from extending your fingers in a straight line with your forearm, it will require dorsal wrist flexion to reach them. Either of these conditions places more strain on your wrists than the straight line position.

Since the forward and back rotation of the handlebar affects this setting, you should first set the handlebar angle to suit you and then rotate the levers to prevent wrist flexion. Setting the handlebar rotation correctly for an individual is more difficult to describe. Some amount of arm bend is needed. This will get a debate started, but a slight forward lean on the spine and forward tilt on the pelvis is the best posture for extended sitting. This also takes some shock off of your spine if you hit a harsh bump or pothole. The bars should not be so high and back that you sit with the pelvis tilted back and your spine arched. But, that is how most people seem to set them up. But I would not let the windshield determine it. I would set it up correctly for me and make a small notch to clear the controls if necessary, or just accept that full lock is somewhat more limited than before.

My BMW is set up to these principles and I have ridden as far as 1,385 miles in one day without ergonomic pain, even though I have arthritis. On that bike I also changed the foot-peg location, seat (needed here as well), and I changed the handlebar to correct ulnar deviation with the stock BMW bar. I just made a reasonably comfortable 13,200 mile trip to Alaska and northwest Canada from Georgia on the motorcycle that would have been unbearable for me in a car.

My point is that adjustment to personal taste is fine, but there are some principles of body mechanics that can help you get to a comfortable position without as much trial and error. Raising the handlebars may or may not be helpful. For sure, a two inch rise will place you at a questionable extension of the control cables unless there is a way to re-route them or replace them with extended cables.
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beemerphile screwed with this post 08-12-2012 at 07:27 PM
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