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Old 08-12-2012, 10:54 PM   #34
Maytag Repairman
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Kingston, Washington
Oddometer: 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
I don't remember if it was a 17mm or 19mm but you will definitely need a short extension to get the correct leverage on it. They are extra-fine threads into aluminum, so apply steady slow pressure with enough leverage (read: a long enough bar) to break them loose. They do not have any thread-locker on them. The crankcase vent hose will be in the way, but you can push it up sufficiently to clear the socket. Did SW-Motech provide longer bolts for the guards to make up for the mounting plate thickness? If not, you may want to read my post on the Givi guards. It seems they mount in the same places, except I think that the Givi guard has a clamp to the frame tubing that the SW Motech does not have.

Oh, and be very careful reinstalling the two bolts that hold the clutch cable lower bracket and the crankcase vent hose. They do not require very much torque and you can easily strip the aluminum threads in the engine block. I have a factory service manual ordered for the bike but I have not received it yet. It would contain the torque values for the case bolts. Without knowing what the spec torque is, I would just barely snug them. They are not going to cause a leak and they are not going to fall out. The Givi instructions (which were horrible) did not supply the torque spec for either the case bolts or the engine mounting bolts. If you go too loose on either, you can always go back and correct it. If you go too high, there is often only regret.
From the instructions, SW did provide replacement bolts but I haven't unwrapped them yet.

I had already put everything back so I can ride to work tomorrow. The hose clamp bolts were very easy to get off so I tried to go easy on them putting them back on.

Strangely, on my first read of the instructions I saw nothing about putting the hose clamp back on when the installation is finished.

At this point I'm considering deferring the project to my mechanic. Wrenching was always a mediocre skill for me and with a 3-hour daily commute sometimes spending the money is better on my sanity.

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At the end of the day I often find myself wanting to sit more upright with the bars an inch or two closer to my arms. I've tried rotating the handle bars in several positions but it seems to just move where I ache at the end of the day. I was hoping my body would either adjust or I would try pivoting risers to bring them closer to me. I generally have a mechanic put risers on for me to deal with the cables.

I've tried to take your advice as best as I can and set the handle bar and controls for tomorrow's ride. It fairly easy for me to understand the hand controls but the handlebars are taking more re-reading to soak in. I think I should find somebody to help me out in person.

Maytag Repairman screwed with this post 08-12-2012 at 11:06 PM
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