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Old 09-28-2012, 04:15 PM   #8
eheal6520
n00b
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Jacksonville, Flatland
Oddometer: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty bike View Post
I used a brass bulkhead fitting that took at 5/8" hole and has a 5/16" outlet to a hose barb. Sourced that at Oil Filter Service Company in Portland, OR, along with some o-ring washers. Was easy to install down low on the left side of the tank. This did require removal of the fuel pump assy, which requires separating the two halves of the assembly, which is not for the faint of heart. I taped a small cap from a spray bottle over the inside of the hole with some duct tape to catch most of the chips, then vacuumed out the few chips from the tank that escaped that. Deburr the hole well, and it helps to have a stubby ratchet and big sockets. Otherwise very strait forward.

In practice, I fill both tanks at the gas station. I ride until the gas gauge shows 3/4 tank, (80-120 miles), then switch the fuel cell valve open. At this point it takes about 6 minutes for the gauge to return to the full indication, and it stays at full to 225-250 miles, then drops to 3/4 again. I suspect that shortly after it goes to 1/2 indication, the fuel cell is empty. When I stop for gas, I close the fuel cell valve, fill both tanks and repeat.
I really like your fuel cell and am considering it for my bike, but I have a cupple of questions.

Is it really necessary to drill the tank. Wouldn't it be easier (and in my case, safer) to tap into one of the fuel lines?

Where is the valve you "switch the fuel cell valve open" located? Why not leave it open all the time?
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Ernie
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere
2005 Suzuki C90
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