Originally Posted by WitchKing
First of all
Question 1. How important is it that the flywheel is properly torqued? I don't mind torqueing(?) it, but would that prevent spark?
Question 2. If the rectifier is bad, would that prevent spark? And where is it?
Question 3. I have been adjusting breaker gap by loosening the screw on the points, and gently tapping the assembly in the desired direction, is that right?
Question 4. That description pretty much covers the whole ignition system right?
I apologize for the newbishness, it's a common symptom of being a newb.
Question 5. I see the "F," but no "TM." There is a pointy part poking out about 1/4 inch from the wall and is about in the right spot, might that be it?
Question 6. I've saved the newbiest of all for last. The points gap (.012-.016 inches) is the minimum or the maximum value? Should the points ever actually touch?
Newb,[greek] (-ie) (noun):one who is new, green, or inexperienced
Synonyms: Me, greenhorn, noob, newbie,
Antonyms: guru, expert, the rest of y'all.
eg.The newb proclaimed proudly that he switched his ignition coil from his 76 Ford F150 onto his 76 Honda MT125.
1 if flywheel is not properly torqued it could spin loose/destroy keyway and potentially crank. as long as it's tight and located opn the keyway it will not effect spark, but yes, it should be properly torqued.
2. rectifier will not effect spark
3. the points should
have a slot for a screwdriver to gently nudge them wider or closer.
4. kill switch, points, stator plate, charge coil, flywheel, points, condenser, ignition coil, sparkplug wire/end cap/sparkplug is the entire ignition system.
5. dunno haven't even looked to see what kinda bike we are talking about.
6. the value is the range of maximum opening - the maximum they should seperate is between .012 and .016. YES, the points need to touch at some point in the rotation. they need to open and close 1 time total during each rotation.