Originally Posted by Reshad
Managed to remove the nut by mimicking an impact wrench by firmly using a piece of wood as impactor against the flex wrench so as not to damage my ratchet..three taps and the nut came loose! I then removed the inner clutch hub; it looks mint in condition. The clutch cage definitely has some play at the needle-bearing interface and it came out easily too. All contact surfaces look fine with only normal wear. If the clutch cage play is not normal, then either the bearing is worn or either of the surfaces, shaft or clutch cage are worn. The primary shaft bearing looks intact, no traces of seizure or damage to the bearing cage, but hereís what I found that doesnít seem quite rightÖThe main shaft turns freely inside the bearing, no radial play but full axial play, so either the shaft or bearing surface is worn :/ Iíd put my money on the shaft being softer and wearing rather than the bearing. Do yous reckon itís it normal the shaft moves in and out of the bearing like that? Doesnít seem normal to me, but as Iím no expert with the LC4 I might be wrong. The fact the whole assembly looks in such good condition, Iím tempted to replace the needle bearing only, put it all back together and play it by ear. Any thoughts? The alternative is a full rebuild to check/change the shaft or bearing, yikes for the wallet :/
I am no one to diagnose your issue from afar, but my thoughts..
I now believe that my issue was caused by a leaky slave cylinder. When I took a few of the metal pieces (still covefred in oil) and put them on a clean piece of paper, I noticed a clear ring soak into the paper before the engine oil did.
I think it was mineral oil from the clutch system. If I am correct, the bearing that went on me was the one closest to where that mineral oil would escape the clutch system.
I would say from the sounds of it, you are in much better shape than me at this point (having caught it earlier). Do you have any marking from the basket on the inside of the clutch cover?