View Single Post
Old 11-12-2012, 10:56 AM   #8
TheRadBaron OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Central Illinois
Oddometer: 433
I've made some real progress over the last few days. The tires showed up so I got them mounted. On the subject of tires; for you guys who mount your own tires, I bought a can of Yamalube tire mounting lubricant and I'll never change a tire without it again. I've never tried any other tire mounting lube other than the dish soap that my dad uses (which totally sucks for mounting tires), but this Yamaha stuff is like magic. Seriously, try it out and you'll never go back.

So here are a few pictures of the bike mocked up as it is. The exhaust is just haphazardly stuck on it for the pictures. I got ahold of the guy who does the powdercoating so I'll be dropping the pipes off to him this week to get coated flat black.
Anyway, I got the fork boots figured out, too. I took the first pair that I got and shortened them by cutting the top bellow off that has the lip that gets zip-tied around the fork leg. Then I cut a few bellows out of the main section of the boots and tucked the top bellow into the first bellow of the shortened boot. The result is acceptable. The headlight is from a '76 Yamaha IT400. It uses a 6v bulb that I believe is the same bulb that antique Harleys use. It's sort of an odd design, but I'm almost sure that they make a 12v version. If for nothing else, the guys who do 12v conversions to their old Harleys would need them and there's a lot of aftermarket support there.
The SL350 headlight ears worked with just a bit of mods to the triple clamp setup. The SL ears are a bit taller than the distance between the upper and lower clamps. I could have cut down the ears a bit, but I wanted to avoid that. I used the proper rubber donuts on the bottom of the ears, but I just put a thick o-ring around the fork tubes at the top of the ears. I used a few machine bushings (basically precision washers) between the upper yoke and the nut that goes on top the the steering bearing. This gave me about 3/16 more distance between the yokes, which is what I needed. I just slid the fork tubes up a bit in the bottom yoke to get them even with the top. Yeah, it's going to change the steering geometry just a bit, but I also think the knobby tire is a bit taller than stock and that will make up the difference. The 520 chain is working out well now that I've got the sprockets aligned. It's an RK 520GXW, "XW-ring" chain. It's a high quality chain that should last quite a while. I love o-ring chains. They last forever and rarely need to be adjusted.

__________________
The desire for safety stands against every great and noble enterprise. -Tacitus
TheRadBaron is offline   Reply With Quote