None of these numbers are comparable to one another. Everyone's insurance profile and history are different, and different insurance companies have different risk profiles and loss histories. For example, my insurance is always high, to cover the gap between normal limits and a business-derived umbrella cap.
The only way to know if a WRR is expensive or cheap to insure is to work with your agent and get an apples-to-apples quote for a wide variety of motorcyles. Use the same liability limits, un / under-insured and medical limits, same collision and comprehensive limits. I can get quotes on-line from my insurance company. Every January I get quotes for 20-30 motorcyles of various types and model years (back to a 1990 CB-1 and a 1998 YZF-600R, which I used as reference points). Each year, the premiums change a little, generally trending downward as bikes age. Supersports and Hypersports cost the most for me; DS bikes and that old CB-1 are the cheapest.
Also note that it can take a year or two (or five) for some insurance companies to get a "new" bike into the correct risk/loss category. For 5 years, my quoted premium for a Sprint ST was the same as a GSX-R1000. Finally it is now in the correct category - at about half the cost.
Also, a WRX is twice the price for me as the similar WRR, due to the risk profile of a street bike (same premium as a Ninja 250) versus that of a dirt bike (same premium as a CRF230L, despite very different purchase / replacement costs).
Insurance is complicated. You must use an apples-to-apples approach for comparison with only your company. You have to do it twice to cross-shop companies. Welcome to 21st Century America. Have fun and stay safe.
1990 Honda NT-650 Hawk-GT
Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world;
indeed, it's the only thing that ever has. - Margaret Mead