Well, I found this thread late and am only up to page 18
But this fellows statement really made me laugh
''I was at the Arctic Circle about June 1 and did not see a single mosquito up or back the whole trip."
Because I once heard a Cajun tour guide make nearly the same statement on a tour of the swamp.
(Later he admitted that what he meant wasn't necessarily what we think we heard---what he meant to imply was that there are no single mosquitos---they are all married with large families)
Wonderful to ride this trip vicariously with this pair---great report and pictures.