Yes, the DR is designed so that it can be lowered by altering the suspension.
The shop manual has the info on how to do it.
Don't have a shop manual yet?
Basically, the forks are removed, opened up, and the steel tube spacer that sits on top of the main springs is moved to fit on the damper rod with the top out spring.
That lowers the forks and limits their travel by the length of the spacer.
The rear shock is removed, pretension on the spring is released by turning the two rings on the top of the spring and once the spring is real loose the spring seat at the bottom ( a big chunk of aluminum with a slot in the side) is slipped off the shaft and turned upside down and slipped back in place. Then the spring tension rings get re-tightened and the shock gets reinstalled and bolted back in place but using the upper of the two bottom mount holes on the clevis.
The spring seat flip limits the travel in the rear so that the tire doesn't hit the fender.
Using the upper of the two lower mount holes in the shock clevis is what lowers the rear end of the bike.
I have done it twice and it is not difficult if you are comfortable working with tools and following instructions.
Some have the dealer do it but if the dealer mechanic is not familiar with the DR factory lowering I would NOT have them do it.
I don't have my shop manual here so others may want to correct anything I have said that is not correct.
I am going by memory and that isn't very good any more.
Never was actually, but is worse now.
This will lower the bike almost 2 inches.
Suzuki sells a shorter kick stand for the lowered bikes.
Or you can cut and weld the stock one.
The forks can also be slid up in the clamps a bit to lower the front more without the tire hitting the fender, and lowering links can be used in the back too.
Keep in mind that this also decreases ground clearance and suspension travel.
My Street Tracker Sumo bike is lowered 5" in front and 4" in the rear for a lower CG.
(I have a 19" front wheel on it)