11-20-2012, 05:28 PM
Joined: May 2010
Location: Interior BC, Canada
Nov 13 Cañon de Sumidero and San Cristobal
Left Juiqipilas to Tuxtla Gutierrez to see the elusive Cañon de Sumidero. Was there last winter and it was a real cluster . . . um mess trying to find the right road with the GPS. Tuxtla is a good sized city so, choosing the correct off “ramp” to get on the correct one way street is a bit of an art. Only got in the wrong lane once this time.
Cañon de Sumidero is a National Park located above the city. Get up to the toll booth to get in and . . . the frickin thing is closed . . . again! I tried to get in last winter but it was closed for weeks for road work. WTF? Go and ask a guy and he tells me it is closed for road work (again) today (like the sign says) and tomorrow. Oh well.
I do recall reading that there is apparently a boat you can take up the river/lake inside the canyon. Go find where the road crosses the river and might be a boat there.
Get close to the river, see a sign to the Embarcadero and down this ratty road that turns rattier and finally drops down on this concrete parking lot. Ask the guy there if they give boat tours – yes they do and it is only $2000p and they will leave anytime because I’ll be the only one on the boat. Jeebus – that seems like a lot for a boat ride. Well I need a little more cash so I’ll be right back . . . mmmkay? As I’m climbing back up the ratty road I notice other boats in the river with people in them.
Check out the other side of the river and find a bit more activity. Pull into one place and yes they have boats going. Get my bike secured as much as possible and head down. Have to wait for 12 people to show up . . . takes a good hour for that to happen. Finally off.
For a loading dock, just fiberglass over an old boat
Cactus growing out of the side of cliffs
Vultures – there were tons of these hanging around waiting for someone to fall off a boat
Hmmm, maybe these guys might beat the vultures to the unfortunate overboard – saw a lot of these in the canyon
I was talking to some Aussies a few days later and they were telling me freshwater crocs are pretty harmless. Really? I don’t think I’ll volunteer as a tester
And even some monkeys
What a spectacular ride. My photos don’t do the canyon justice. It twisted back and forth for about 15 or 20 kilometeres
Came to this thing on the side of the canyon wall that was shaped kind of like a tree
Got closer and discovered it consisted of a bunch of plants and moss
Then discovered the reason this was all here was that it was a waterfall of sorts. This area grew really well with a constant supply of water – had its own bio-system. Looking up - that blurry area is actually some of the water turning to mist and evaporating.
After returning, carried on to one of my top 5 favorite Mexico roads (I think the top 5 list is getting pretty long . . . ) Tuxtla to San Cristobal Libre. As we started to gain altitude again, the temperature plummeted. However, beautiful country. Didn’t bother to stop for pics as I was having too much fun
Arrived in San Cristobal and thought I’d try a different hotel. Hotel Jovel. Nice place – thought parking was closer but turns out about 2 blocks away. Lady running the lot had me park next to her little house in a hole. Was fun getting it out the next morning.
Found one of the places I ate at last time and it was just as good as ever. Get this plate of grilled meats and vegies and about 18 tortillas . . . I needed ‘em all. Damn, it’s good being a gluton!
And, damn, it’s cold here – like 11deg C (52F) – about 12degC in the unheated room. After Zipolite, I have to get acclimatized again or, just may have to go back to Zipolite . . . . .
- RexBuck's Latin America
Information on travelling in Latin America.
Includes links to ride reports to Mexico and to South America