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Old 11-29-2012, 03:23 PM   #8031
snowhawk jockey
Slack Jaw Gaper
 
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: The other Center of the Universe: Bend, Oregon
Oddometer: 1,130
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiseblood View Post

#1. I turn off the petcocks, remove center connector fuel hose from petcocks, disconnect wires and q/d fuel line, remove tank, set my tank on a folding table, right next to the bike, then reattach fuel line to the q/d fitting and re-attach fuel pump. Turn on left side petcock and start bike!

I have since added a longer piece of fuel line to the bike side of the q/d fitting. This allows me to set the tank back on the subframe(secured with big bungee) and run the bike. With the FCR's I wanted to be able to test/tune on a ride and had to have fuel to do so...

#2. The filter can remain in the stock airbox for measuring flow through the trumpets. The filter will have to come off to adjust the throttle linkage for synch changes.

#3. Some auto/electrical test meters have an RPM setting, maybe yours does too. If not, $39 buys a tinytach from Trailtech, then you can watch the rev's. I check synch at idle and 4000 rpm, because I have two throttle cables and two idle adjusts, one for each carb. The idle synch is testing the idle stop setting and the 4000 rpm synch is testing the cables for matching length and uses the cable sheath barrel for adjustments. yours won't be a detailed since there is a linkage joining the two carbs and only one throttle cable.

There is NO reason to get 20-25MPG city, so the jetting is likely wrong.
Baseline the jetting, when you pull the airbox, by disassembling and noting in your records, what jets are installed in the bowl, intake tract and what needle is in the slide.
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