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Old 12-02-2012, 03:08 PM   #57
Parepin OP
The Filthy Nomad
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: That's... a tough one to answer
Oddometer: 1,133
The red lines are where I dealt with complete failure, whether it be breaks in the frame or complete separation of the welds.
The yellow lines are simply cracks in the frame or powder coat that I found.

I spent the countless hours over the next day or two stripping the remaining components from the frame, degreasing, and scrubbing the frame as clean as I could get it. Using just a scotchbright, I scuffed up the factory paint fairly well and even cleaned up some of the welds with the grinder and a lapping wheel. The smaller components (footpegs, brackets, etc.) would go into a sandblasting tank at Dan's work just for a quick etching.

Everything then went out back and got hung from the rafters above the patio out back to be painted. I ended up just using Industrial Rustoleum, rather than going for a powdercoat job. I much rather would have had powdercoat, but the prep required, the overall lack of funds, and a quickly shrinking timeline prevented this. It wasn't all that bad, though. After four cans of paint and countless coats that seemed to dry in an instant in the Phoenix sunshine, everything came together fairly nicely. The paint stuck and held up well, even to the aluminum fork tubes.

Reassembly has commenced. The original Janis was still in one piece off to the side. I wanted to keep her intact as long as I could during this project so I would still have a bike to ride, but the time was quickly approaching for her own disassembly. Everything was coming together nicely. The radiators mounted right up, and I was even able to re-use the factory reservoir bracket as a bit of reinforcement. The electronics were relocated up and into the frame a bit. I'm not happy with this fix, but it would work for now. With the second radiator in place and the necessity for air flow, I was limited with where, exactly, I could place all these components necessary for forward propulsion.

Shitty pic

I went about plumbing in the cooling system here. On top of the secondary radiator, I also had a Thermo-Bob to deal with. This is also a great mod, but the placement of the external housing was always a tight fit. The flow of coolant was fairly factory, going from the pump into the bottom of the cylinder, then out of the head and through the Thermo-Bob and back into the factory radiator at the top. From there the line would cross from the bottom of the stock radiator back up and into the new KLX radiator, then down between the header and back into the coolant pump.

Space was a big issue here. There was a small void where the backbone and the downtube are gussetted together behind the steering head. I was able to cram a few electronics into this void, and it left enough room for the two cooling lines that connected the radiators to cross. There is kind of a gnarly bend required for the line connecting the two radiators. I had to go down to the local carquest with a chunk of line and wire that was loosely bent in the shape i would need. I was able to find a line with pre-existing bends that I cut down and managed to fit. Zip ties were used to hold all the lines in place and prevent any rubbing. The rest of the wiring harness was crammed into the remaining void and zip-tied into place. I'd like to take a more elegant approach to this later on, but for now this would work. This left just enough room for me to run the bypass line for the Thermo-Bob and the housing itself.

Just a quickie here. For those that aren't familiar with a Thermo-Bob, it's basically a radiator bypass. The idea is that in cold weather, the bypass would divert hot coolant just as it exits the engine, bypassing the radiator all together, and routing some hot coolant back into the engine. This greatly helps maintain a steady temperature in the engine, preventing it from getting too cold on those blustery winter commutes. The addition of the radiator, of course, goes the opposite direction by adding cooling capability. These two mods have worked well together so far, and I haven't had any issues. Stays at optimal temperatures in 30 degree weather, as well as those 100+ days in slow traffic. My fan is rarely used.

The coolant reservoir was relocated to the left side of the subframe, just opposite the muffler. A res. off of a YFZ 450 (I think) nestled right up under there nicely. I was even able to re-use the existing bracket from the California charcoal box with minimal effort. Just had to cut out a simple bracket and it bolted right on. The overflow line was run along the backbone and split off just before the radiator, allowing me to connect both rads to the bottle.

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