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Old 12-03-2012, 11:11 AM   #81
DiabloADV
Semi-Occasional
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Nor Cal, USA
Oddometer: 2,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by tpulls View Post
Thanks to those who have answered a couple of my questions already, but I have a few more about the R1200R!

Suspension, I'd love to be able to stiffen it for faster canyon riding or loaded 2-up trips. I am extremely unfamiliar with BMW's telelever, so what tuning options do you have with the front? How about the rear? Would the bike feel undersprung for a 185 lb me?

Speaking of fast canyon riding, what is the first hard part to drag on the 1200R? Can they be leaned over pretty aggressively? Those cylinders are so...far out.

What servicing would I have to involve the dealer for? ie, special tools required or computer codes that need to be reset.

Thanks!
I dragged a cylinder head on mine once; the footpeg feeler might have touched, but I was too freaked to notice. That event occured when I was going around a slow hairpin and was counter-balancing through the turn (dirtbike style). On "normal" turns I never dragged the heads, but I know people that have.

The stock rear shock has a preload knob, so it's a simple click or two to adapt for pillion or baggage. You can get the rear really stiff if you need to. The Wilbers shocks are a popular option, but I wouldn't spend that kinda money. To each his own...I had a GS once that came with Ohlins, and the original shocks in a box. I put the stockers on; it rode just fine for me so I sold the Ohlins and bought some other stuff for the bike.

Oil changes and valve adjustments are most of your service needs. 45 minutes sitting on a stool in your garage...

You can buy the diagnostic reader for less than the cost of one dealer visit.
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5
1981 R80G/S Renovation under way. For sale Spring '14
'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace

'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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