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Old 12-05-2012, 07:23 AM   #11
Sting32
Trials Evangelist
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Minneapolis, Ks
Oddometer: 1,245
if I can explain, I doubt I can describe this good enough to creat a movie into everyone's head, with my lack of story telling skills, and poor typing skills, let alone type-oh's lol... but I will try.

Again this is how I do it, try it if you want, its your problem.

Pro kick levers are already way up on rotation, damn near 12 on the clock dial if you look at the rotation from the right hand side of the bike. From that position it is useless to put any weight on the lever, of course... While straddling the bike, I put the middle of my boot, on the kicker, and in a quick motion I begin the "kick. Note, at this point, the lever really CAN'T have any weight on it yet, it is at the awkward position and angles for your leg, we're talking about a couple rotation knee muscles, is all you can use. So from nearly 12 o'clock to 11 o'clock heading to 10 o'clock, were just flicking the lever back more than down, which IMHO flicks the gear into position on the start lever's shaft, mating it with the idler gear.

Before starting any PRO bike, I have rocked the engine backwards so it is almost 3/4ths of a rotation of the crankshaft, until it has compression, which allows me to aggressively keep adding my strength to the kick lever, while it is only progressively adding stress to kicking parts of the engine.

As I move the lever back and now more DOWN, as the lever passes the 10 o'clock position, my foot now starts getting strength from more muscles, it is starting to rotate the clutch basket which is spinning the crankshaft... I kick all the way through now to the footpeg which stops the lever at relatively 7 o'clock position, at most.

This is learned because it takes a "full kick" from the kicker to light a 300; A 125 not so much stress is placed on kicking parts, and it spins faster easier.

*explaination * what has happend to me on several of my early bikes was, Trying to do it like that movie describes is which is how I used to start every motorcycle I had previously owned... But, on these PRO's the kicking "elephant ear shaped gear" that moves in and out on the starter shaft, has to mate with the idler gear. Well, 5 times, I have had it fail to mate, or hardly mate due to spring that makes it move out and in on shaft or any other circumstances like on wobbly ledge and just needed the damn bike running, lol. (PS, in or out or up and down on that shaft, when you have bike laid down to work on these parts)... Each time, it was nicely place kicker up onto compression then swing at it with your weight and "might," Off pops the elephant ear.

BTWm I have not broken a gear since the year 2007-08, I would have been on the 06. My son & sone in law has broken a couple times since then, because I cannot get them to quick kicking it like it was a 450 honda with compression release... BTW he cant weigh 150 lbs.

Plus, if you try to load onto compression then kick through, you have lost 30% of the available travel of the kicker lever. I stand behind my statements above because I can 99 out of 100 attempts, start the bike 1 kick. If it takes you 10 kicks, you are beating the hell out of that kicker assembly, so I still think my way is more productive and less destructive.

Yes, I have had to replace idler gear, they are cheap, I do it if/when I have to reset the height of my clutch fingers...
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