Originally Posted by jeepsandbikes
i also had a valve cover bolt strip and work its way loose , DPO stripped the threads . It was spitting oil all over me and the side of my bike . i pulled over and had a look at what junk i had with me . I had a rubber bunji that a guy gave me on a trip east . I used a nut and bolt that i had to remove from my dash cut a piece of rubber and using my swiss tool reamer put a hole in the rubber . i stuck the bolt through the rubber and threaded on the nut . it was just tight enough to slide into the hole where the bolt was . i tightened it up , it expanded and plugged the hole . i rode it that way for a week till i could track down the proper size heli coil for the head .
You know that you can do something similar just sticking a piece of hardwood dowel in the hole, then predrill and use a sheet metal screw. Even a branch of the right size if you are in the bush.
Surprisingly strong repairs can be achieved that way.Turned out permanent on the rattly old Tecumseh on my old snowblower. And so are expanding metal or even nylon anchors for concrete/wood/drywall.With all due care and attention not to crack the cases.
Thanks for reminding me.....forgot that I was going to fill a hole with solder or lead and then screw a #12x 3/4 sheet metal screw or so in there with the torque wrench to see how much torque I could achieve before stripping.
Already done something similar to adapt top post batteries on cars to side post. Drilled/tapped and threaded into the posts, removed the center bolt on the side post terminals and bolted them on the top posts. Never failed or stripped at....from my wrist, 25-30 ft/lbs. Even rode the R100GS for a few weeks with a top post car battery mounted that way on the rear rack.