Thread: Crimping wire
View Single Post
Old 12-09-2012, 07:51 AM   #14
Preshrunk & Cottony
GreaseMonkey's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: The only county in Illinois with no train tracks
Oddometer: 5,331
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
the crimper has to match the connector

the first tool looks like an Amp Superchamp knock off. the real Amp tool used on Amp PIDG terminals works fine. other combinations... mebby not.

the second tool is a Stakon type. maybe more forgiving. it wil also work better with the parts it was designed to be used with

PS with the wrong tool you can be loose, or over crimp the wire and make the connection brittle

Originally Posted by machinebuilder View Post
the difference is the part of the first tool you are using.

if you had used the part for NON insulated (below the hinge) it would worked better.
I crimp a lot of uninsulated fork lugs and I use the second type,

But match the lug to the wire size,

IF you have to make do with a larger lug, fold the wire in 2 before puting the lug on and crimping. (I also work with 24-26awg at times)

I hate to sound like a buzzkill, but both these guys are pretty much spot on and it would benefit you to understand what they are saying.

If someone were to post that they have a full set of SAE wrenches so they did not need buy a metric set because they could find something to fit most of the time, it would be obvious to most that there is a bit of improperness in that.

It is the same with electrical connectors and wiring. You have both insulated and uninsulated and they are two different animals, about the only thing common with them is they need to be sized properly to the wire.

As you have found out, if you use an uninsulated butt splice connector that is too large for the wire, and then try to crimp it about the only thing that happens is the connector smashes flat and then the wire slips out. Had the connector been sized properly, or even if the wire had been made bigger by folding it back on itself once or twice, you could have then crimped it with the tool and it would have held. The main issue in doing it like you did IMHO is that you have to squeeze it pretty firmly and as Beezer points out, it smashes the wires and they get work hardened and brittle and will often break right there at some inconvenient point in the future).

Additionally, if you use the "non insulated" crimp position with insulated terminals, it will cut the plastic with a firm squeeze, and if it is a heat shrink sealable connector it will cut the insulation as soon as it looks at it, then when you apply heat to seal it the little cut opens up wide and you have to re-do the entire connector.

Anyway, it sounds like you now have both styles so good on you and that should keep you going for many years. Ratcheting ones are great but if you use them improperly they won't give you a good crimp either.

I suspect if you went to a website for tools such as Klein or Greenlee, they would probably have instructions on how to use their version of the tools you have and it would be helpful for you to read those.

Apologies if this sounds like criticism, because it is not intended as such but it is attention to details such as these that enables one to eventually become a master of his craft, otherwise one never really moves past just being a hack.

Best wishes,

GreaseMonkey is offline   Reply With Quote