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Old 01-09-2013, 01:49 PM   #22
jrsride2002 OP
jrsride2002's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Houston, Tx, USA
Oddometer: 82
Originally Posted by bomber1965 View Post
Backing a trailer.

go slow, crawl if needed.

once it jacks, stop and do a small pull up, a few feet not two car lengths to correct the angle.

watch the front car fenders that they don't wack something while your busy eyeballing the trailer.

Here's the big secret, when backing up a trailer place one hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and keep it there.
move hand left trailer tracks to the left.
move hand right trailer tracks to the right.
use small inputs not big swinging handfuls.

Yea at first, my issue was the big handfuls. Didn't care how slow I was going. I do notice that I am super focused on the trailer not the fender, thanks for that one! And thanks for the super secret wheel positioning, I think im going to hit up the stadium again

Originally Posted by japako View Post
I would first check your axle and see if you have brake flanges.
I have put on electric brakes and hydraulic surge brakes and for your trailer I would go with the surge disk brakes. Here is a link and the cost.

This is a good unit and will cost less and work as well in my opinion.. lol'

If you have the flanges, and you probably do, you won't need a new axle.

I really like this much better than drum e brakes.

The first thing you may want to do, is weigh the trailer and then weigh the hitch. This will tell you exactly what you have. and as you add weight( bikes, gas, ect. you will have a better idea of where to put it and keep the tongue weight at 10% of total trailer and gear weight. When you first weigh the hitch it should be 10% of empty trailer.

I don't have E track on mine and use chain links welded to the frame for my tie downs. Then I marked where I wanted the rear tie downs and mounted thru the deck with steel backing plate.
Take your bike, and move it to where you want it(center of trailer and forward). Then move it to where you would place the next bike and mark for each tie down.
You may want to do this differently. Whatever works for you.

Put your lights where they won't get knocked off and use a good bracket.

Have fun..
Sadly, 100% sure, no brake plates

As for the weighing bit.....hhhmmmm might have to get cleaver to figure that on out. The only place I know of that has something like that is the dump, or the border check points.. But it makes sense as to keep the tongue weight right where you want it...

As for the e-track, I think I am going to special order some 8' tracks. All I have locally is 5' tracks and those will/are leaving gaps. Not that I mind to much, but for aesthetics I would recommend to someone/anyone start with some 8' tracks.

Thanks for the insight guys,
'02 XR650L: Accerbis tank, motor mods, suspension mods, electronics mods
'02 DR650: Yamaha Raptor 660 petcock, everything else stock
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