If you want brakes on the trailer, get a trailer with brakes. For a two-place open like that, I honestly wouldn't worry about it.
Modify your driving - The "O/D Off" button gets a -lot- of work on my truck when i'm pulling. There's also a "2" and "1" gear besides the usual "D" ... use those when going downhills or you will smoke your tow vehicle's brakes.
The 4-pin connector is for lights and lights only. Brake, LT, RT. There's a few varieties of other connectors mostly seen on horse trailers, I'd avoid these and skip right to a 7-pin RV connector. That adds a 12V aux line, ground, reverse, and electric brakes. I replaced the connector on my truck with a dual-connector dealie, has the 7-pin RV and the 4-pin next to it. Between those two, I can hook up just about anything to the truck.
And if you do go with brakes on the trailer, spend the money for a decent controller. Tekonsha's the only ones worth getting, I have a Primus in my truck I got on sale and it works well. Other benefit to a better controller is some built-in diagnostics - Mine tells me that the trailer's not only connected, but that the brakes are indeed working and not shorted out. The digital readout's nice so you can go back to a point you liked rather than just guessing.
For the trailer you're looking at, you'll be fine. I wouldn't want to put more than my loaded trailer behind my truck, but it gets the job done.